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Tell me about Watco Danish oil

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by tjclem, Jan 12, 2006.


  1. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    I am using it for the first time on my first fretted bass. So far it seems pretty interesting. I wiped on a lot on the neck then kept putting it on for the next 1/2 hour. I wiped off the excess. Nice stuff so far......t
     
  2. I used a product available here in Australia, Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil. It is an all-in-one finish that is a mixture of danish oil and oil-based polyurethane.

    It too, is a wipe on, and it penetrates a little and cures HARD like a good poly should. I put about 6 coats of it on my recent wishbass refinish project. The great thing about it is that whether I had bare wood or remnant nitrocellulose, it covered the same with no differences.

    Left the bass with a nice satin finish.

    danish oil is a curing oil and is made with either linseed oil or tung, or both. does the watco oil contain any poly?

    found this little bit of info on:

    http://www.canadianhomeworkshop.com/diy/everything_finish2.shtml

    it illustrates that you can mix danish oil and oil-based polyurethane (as is already done in the Feast Watson Scandinavian oil product)
     
  3. JSPguitars

    JSPguitars

    Jan 12, 2004
    Grass Valley
    That's what I like to use. I get the 'natural' kind......and stay away from the colored stuff. I've developed a fondness for the smell now too :confused:
    it's an easy finish for a noob like me. Use some wax at the end, and it shines up nicely. It's also very easy to 'fix', just sand and reapply, etc.
    Just don't get too carried away with application. You can apply a lot at first, let soak, then wipe away. BUt, after a couple coats, apply just enough and let COMPLETELY dry before applying more coats.
    I had some ash that got really funky-moldy looking (mostly in the porous part) after applying too much of it and had to let dry/resand the whole thing.
     

  4. hmmmm...interesting...nothing worse than funky-looking ash ;)
     
    ThePresident777 likes this.
  5. I'm finishing my fretless now with Danish oil as we have buckets of the stuff here in the school workshop. brings up the grain a treat.
     
  6. +1 on letting it dry. I had a project (not a bass) that I used Watco Danish Oil on. I put 5 coats in about 3 days, and it took about 6 months before it was completely dry. I'd say it was 90% dry after about a week, and then it just sat there. :spit:

    Once it did dry, it was a good finish. Now I prefer using a wipe-on poly instead of an oil (pure poly rather than oil-poly mix). It dries faster and cures harder.
     
  7. That what I used to finish my bass. I found some good instructions on the web on a process which involved wetsanding with the danish oil to fill the wood's pores. It came out very smooth. Once it was finished I put 2 coates of Minwax paste wax on it. It gave it a nice shine and a super smooth, slick and dry to the touch feel. . .especially on the neck.

    Check out:
    http://www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/OilFin.htm
     
  8. klocwerk

    klocwerk

    May 19, 2005
    Somerville, MA

    Great link, thanks!
     
  9. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    I found that link a while ago. The only problem with that link is it assumes you are dealing with one color wood. Can you inagine what it would look like if you are doing an Ash body with a Wenge top? You would have a gray slurry all over the Ash. I am doing a Mahogany body with a Walnut top. I am temped to try the wet sanding, the bass wil be mine it is not for a customer.
     
  10. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Maryland
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    The wet sanding technique should be okay for mahogany and walnut. It's pretty much okay for most colorfast woods. Watch out for cocobolo and padauk no matter what finish you use.
     
  11. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    Isn't the idea to create a "slurry" of wood dust and finish that will fill the pores?..t
     
  12. Tom,
    Do one color wood at a time starting with the lighter wood. Get a good slurry with the lighter wood and let it dry. Then a day later do the darker wood. I did it with maple and mahogony with no bleeding.
     
  13. Yes. Certain woods bleed like crazy and colour everything else. I found out the hard way when I was wet sanding my 8 string which has a nice padauk accent next to some white limba.
     
  14. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    Thanks all. I am using the natural color. It did soak a lot up. I will re-apply later today and try the wet sanding. I like it so far. The wife is thrilled that it doesn't "stink up the house" If she is happy I am happy. :hyper:
     
  15. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    I justdid the wet sanding with 600 grit. Do I just let the slurry of dust/Watco dry? If I wipe it down won't I just wipe the mix out of the grain I am supposed to be filling? :confused:
     
  16. I used an oil-poly mix (see previous post about Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil) and it dried hard as a rock in about 1 week, and I live in a VERY humid tropical climate.

    I've had the finish on now for nearly 2 months and it's held up very well...I even put it on the purpleheart fingerboard :eek:
     
  17. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    Did you do the wet sanding? If so did you wait 'till it dried before wipeing off the excess?
     
  18. My project had clear nitrocellulose laquer on it originally. This provided a great sanding sealer. I was after the more satiny finish and after the initial sanding up to 400 grit, I opted out of wet sanding.

    the purpleheart fingerboard was unsealed...i threw some on to see how it looked (intending to sand it off later)...I liked it so much, I put on 2 more coats. I did a little bit of dry sanding with 400 grit after the first coat just to clean up the board a bit, but I didn't wet sand.

    In your case, I'd let it dry before wiping it down...for the final coat, however, I would do no sanding, just a light application to even it out.

    remember, what I used was a little different in that there was polyurethane mixed in. I don't think your product does.
     
  19. I read to let the slurry dry slightly and then wipe against the grain. I'm sure you can also let the slurry partially dry and then scrape the excess off with a "credit card". If all of the pores do not get filled and then you just repeat the wetsanding process with a finer grit sandpaper.

    The only problem that leaving too much slurry on the would could create is more fine grit sanding.
     
  20. One thing I forgot to mention is that after you scrape the slurry or wipe against the grain, you want to let the slurry completely dry in between each time that you wetsand.