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Tell me more about stainless steel strings

J

Just Wrong

Mar 30, 2023
1,449
2,317
#1
I know I posted about tape wounds just yesterday, but I was thinking, I've never knowingly tried stainless steel strings, mostly probably because we've been told for a while now that "warm" and "old school" are in, and "bright" is out. Since my bass is forever doomed to only work with rounds, why not give it a go? Plus, Derrick Hodge sure can make them sing. Maybe if I get stainless steel strings I can be as good as him?

So I guess what I'm wondering is what should I know about stainless steel strings? What brands and models should I look into and which I should avoid? (Note that DR doesn't recommend round core strings for headless basses, so Hi Beams and Fat Beams are out.)

From what I understand, stainless steel strings are typically stiffer and feel rougher than nickels?

D'Addario Pro Steels and Dunlops are around the same price here in Canada, but the DR Lo Riders are CA$20 more expensive. Is it worth it?

Cheers!
 
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#2
I was looking for long-lasting strings so I wasn't always needing to replace strings in my herd. I had finally settled on two strings: TI flats for flatwounds and DR SS Lo-riders for rounds. The lo-riders worked well for me. It sounds a little strange, as I don't like really bright strings. The lo-riders are not as bright as strings like DR highbeams, and also are somewhat more lower-mid focused. With rolling the tone control back just a bit to take the edge off, they were pretty much what I was looking for. They also lasted quite a while.
 
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#5
I agree it's worth it to give a set of Roto 66s a try- they are pretty bright when fresh, but that doesn't last too long and they have an interesting mid crunch when worn in that can be pretty cool and lasts awhile for me though they do get dull (just not as boomy as some other steel strings when they die). I feel like nearly every out-front bass player used them at some point (usually fresh ones every show though, maybe not Jaco!) though many players have also moved on which says something too (sometimes lack consistency- dead strings straight out of the package).

I also really like DR Lo-Riders. Less bright than Rotos when fresh, more punchy to me in the low-mids too and seem to hold their character longer for me than most other SS strings I've used (or I guess they retain the things I like longer!). I rarely keep steel strings on for the long haul, but always have a bass with Lo-Riders installed. I even keep the old sets around when I swap out to nickels or flats and I've put on used sets of Lo-riders after years that still sounded good to me.
 
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#6
bwildt said:
I was looking for long-lasting strings so I wasn't always needing to replace strings in my herd. I had finally settled on two strings: TI flats for flatwounds and DR SS Lo-riders for rounds. The lo-riders worked well for me. It sounds a little strange, as I don't like really bright strings. The lo-riders are not as bright as strings like DR highbeams, and also are somewhat more lower-mid focused. With rolling the tone control back just a bit to take the edge off, they were pretty much what I was looking for. They also lasted quite a while.
Click to expand...
I love lo-mids and long-lasting strings!

Lee Moses said:
I believe every bassist needs to try Rotosound Swing Bass. Especially if you're at all a rock bassist. These days I like a mellower nicked-plated steel, but Rotosound RS66 are what all of us who started in the 80's (and I imagine late 70's) grew up on.
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I'm not really a fan of rock, although my band plays some rock covers, but I did try Rotosounds once (no idea which ones) when I was younger and knew nothing about strings. They were the stiffest, roughest strings I'd ever touched and never bought them again. Maybe it's time I give them another look.

nutdog said:
I buy any brand lite guage SS when I find a deal. Strings don't make the player. Practice makes the player.

Flats won't sound like rounds and vice versa but you can get warm and round with SS rounds with right technique and tone control.
Click to expand...
You’re not wrong, although I don’t mind paying a little extra for smoother, more flexible strings. But I guess the question is, are the lo riders are a better deal at $60 than the Dunlops at $40? Do they last twice as long as the Dunlops?
 
#7
sunbeast said:
I agree it's worth it to give a set of Roto 66s a try- they are pretty bright when fresh, but that doesn't last too long and they have an interesting mid crunch when worn in that can be pretty cool and lasts awhile for me though they do get dull (just not as boomy as some other steel strings when they die). I feel like nearly every out-front bass player used them at some point (usually fresh ones every show though, maybe not Jaco!) though many players have also moved on which says something too (sometimes lack consistency- dead strings straight out of the package).

I also really like DR Lo-Riders. Less bright than Rotos when fresh, more punchy to me in the low-mids too and seem to hold their character longer for me than most other SS strings I've used (or I guess they retain the things I like longer!). I rarely keep steel strings on for the long haul, but always have a bass with Lo-Riders installed. I even keep the old sets around when I swap out to nickels or flats and I've put on used sets of Lo-riders after years that still sounded good to me.
Click to expand...
Have you compared the DR to the Dunlop?
 
#8
Just Wrong said:
I've never knowingly tried stainless steel strings, mostly probably because we've been told for a while now that "warm" and "old school" are in, and "bright" is out.
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🤣

seriously, i've used roto 66 sets to play hard bebop for decades. i still like 'em, but i like TI jazz rounds better.

who is "we've been told" and who is doing the telling? asking for millions of friends.
 
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#9
D’Addario Pro Steels work well for me.

Lots of bite to the tone, they last a reasonably long time, and aren’t terribly expensive.

D’Addario NYXLs are good, too. Longer-lasting, but more expensive.

Rotosounds let me down 45 years ago. They let me down again a year ago.

But, hey, I tried ‘em, right?….🤨
 
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#10
Swore off Rotosounds ages ago. There is that signature Rotosound 66 tone that typically lasts anywhere from a few hours to a day or three. Then it's gone. No other string can match it that I ever found (except Dean Markley, and they're gone now).
... but yeah,
/agree
everyone should try Rotosounds.

I find unexpected happiness with plain Jane nickel plated steel EB Slinkys. Good high mids! And they do not feel like cheese graters on my fingers.
 
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#13
I run Hi Beams on my Tbird for that little extra brightness and snap and they also have a nice solid fundamental. Overall I'd say I prefer Nickles purely for the feel, softer on your fingers and slightly lower tension is hard to pass up. I used to run D'addario/Dunlop SS strings for years but once I tried a set of Slinky's I never looked back.
 
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#15
Just Wrong said:
I'm not really a fan of rock, although my band plays some rock covers, but I did try Rotosounds once (no idea which ones) when I was younger and knew nothing about strings. They were the stiffest, roughest strings I'd ever touched and never bought them again. Maybe it's time I give them another look.
Click to expand...

They're probably not for you. But experience with them gives you a great reference point. For smoother strings, I would look toward DR strings.
 
#16
I love them but there was a stash of DR Pure Blues that I got for a good deal so more than my basses are on Pure Blues, but I am ready to put back all DR Hi-Beans, Flat Beams and Magma Flats when the Pure blues wear out except for one fretless where the Blues the right string. I have been a Stainless Steel string user for years - Roto 66 since 1987. D'Addario pro steels are another string to look at, but I love the feel of round core DRs.
 
#17
oh man i feel out of it. never played tape or flats. always went with a mantra of “i can eq out highs, but i cant add them”. but i mostly play rock/alt/metal…

stainless rotos for my rics was my thing for a long time. my dingwalls came with nickel and since then i have been rotating to nickel for more consistent tone over time.

i focus less on strings and more on other things for tone. i just try to do better at swapping my strings before they sound too dead, and i try to not change gauge to save on intonation changes.
 
#19
Stainless strings are a little rougher out of the pack, but it’s not long before they smooth out. They’re not really stiffer than other rounds.

If you play with clean hands, they last a lot longer than nickels.

Lots of good models - I use D’addario Prosteels, cause I can get the gauges I need to make balanced sets.
 
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