• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Template material (send cut send)

I've been pondering my next build, and thinking about trying my hand at an acoustic/ electric build. I've got a design I like that's a nice looking shape.

My question is this, should I go through something like SendCutSend to get the forms for my body made, and from what material?

I haven't priced anything yet, but my initial thought was 1/2"(12.7mm) MDF, but they also have 12mm Baltic Birch. My guess is that the birch is at least double the MDF, but is there any real advantage (assuming that I finish the edges of the MDF)?

My plan was to get 3 cutouts (possibly both a negative and a positive form?) So that I'd have a top, middle and bottom form, that I would need to add spacers to. Then I could bend the sides on an iron and clamp them into the forms.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Barticus
I found that soaking the edges of MDF templates with water-thin CA glue makes them plenty hard, almost a waxy sort of self-lubricating surrface, but it never hurts to make a second spare template from the original immediately, before any wear happens.
..and as implied here, if you need 3 for your form, you should be able to order one, make 3 or 4 copies, and hang the original up in case of "oops!" rather than ordering 3 of the same thing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Videojunkie
1/4 mdf is usually good enough. And if you need something thicker, you can always make a copy of your template on thicker material. And I would only use something more durable than MDF if I intended to use that template for several builds. If I think I will build that instrument just once or twice, there's no need to use something more expensive.

I've never used Send cut send (I don't live in the US) but every time I had something laser cut with similar local services, they sent me the piece I ordered and a rectangle of material surrounding it. That rectangle could serve as a negative template if needed (or could be used to trace one).
 
I've been pondering my next build, and thinking about trying my hand at an acoustic/ electric build. I've got a design I like that's a nice looking shape.

My question is this, should I go through something like SendCutSend to get the forms for my body made, and from what material?

I haven't priced anything yet, but my initial thought was 1/2"(12.7mm) MDF, but they also have 12mm Baltic Birch. My guess is that the birch is at least double the MDF, but is there any real advantage (assuming that I finish the edges of the MDF)?

My plan was to get 3 cutouts (possibly both a negative and a positive form?) So that I'd have a top, middle and bottom form, that I would need to add spacers to. Then I could bend the sides on an iron and clamp them into the forms.

Hello Videojunkie;

The quick answer to your question is that either MDF or Baltic Birch Plywood will work for body side bending forms like this. Plywood will be somewhat stronger and lighter weight. Around here, plywood isn't too much more expensive than MDF.

Most folks I know build these forms from 4 layers of 3/4" BB plywood, 3" thick overall. Or more layers for thicker Jumbo bodies. Generally, the 1st layer is drawn out, sawn and sanded to shape. The other layers are rough sawn and match cut with a router and bearing bit. They are glued up as a stack with pins or something to keep them lined up. The 1st layer of the outer form is traced from the inner form, with an offset spacer. Then the same process of hand fitting and checking the 1st layer, then making 3 more duplicates with a router.

Your plan of having SendCutSend cut the forms as 3 layers of 1/2" thick, which you then assemble with spacers, should work okay. 6 layers of 1/2", with no spacers, would be better surface area to keep from distorting your steamed sides. But that might get expensive. We'd all be curious what they quote you.

I'm assuming that they would laser-cut these parts. It may not really cost that much in machine-minutes. The bigger cost may be the wood itself and the shipping.

If they are going to be laser-cut, have them also cut two 1/4" holes in each part, that you can use with pins to get everything lined up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NKBassman