The Best Bass for Detuning?

There is zero actual evidence that either stringing through the body and reversing the headstock will increase the tension of the string. The physical string is longer but the speaking length of the string is determined solely by where the string crosses the bridge and where it crosses the nut. The only way to make the string tighter is higher pitch or longer scale length.

The type of strings will matter more for this than the type of bass. That said I have always had luck drop tuning my neck through Warwick Basses.

There is a compromise needed to be done in bass setup as well. If you are planning on drop tuning all the way down to B you can not have the optimal setup for the same string tuned to E. Finding the sweet spot between a too tight E and a too loose D or way loose B is the challenge. I do not believe there is a bass alone that will solve these issues.

 

If you can find a 35” scale bass it will have slightly more tension with all strings that you use. I use 34” scale basses mostly for my band, which plays in D standard tuning. I just adjust the strings I use to increase the tension. I’ve found that DR Lo Rider 45-105 work well for me tuned to D as well as DR Hi Beam 50-110.

 

If you want to maintain EADG feel at lower pitches, a change of strings will get you there faster, cheaper, and more effectively than a change of bass. New basses are more fun, though …

… my new-to-me ‘84 Peavey Fury drops from EADG to CGCF without need of a truss rod adjustment. The feel and tone change, of course; but the playability and quality of sound don’t. There’s something to be said for very stable necks. If you’ve got the budget to look into aluminum or graphite, you might want to do that.

 

Its going to be more string tension than anything. Higher tension strings will have a firmer feel to them at lower tuning than lighter tension.

 

Have never tried one but Dingwall or some other fan fret would be my bet.

 

Two of my T birds are in drop D, another in C. All three strung with Rotosounds, play great with no floppiness

 

Probably fanned-fret basses, but since I personally can't play them worth a copper cent and sorta hate looking at them, I'd suggest a 35" scale 4-string. I'm sure some folks around here know several outfits that make them, I can't recall any except the old Peavey G Bass (awesome basses, US-made, pretty good preamp, very good pickup, Modulus Graphite neck, and can be had CHEAP here and there) right now. I'm actually casually on the hunt for one someday for exactly that purpose.

 

It isn't so much a "bass" (as in manufacturer or construction method) issue, but rather an equation of string gauge, scale length and build quality. Having a bass that combines all of these qualities will prosper when downtuned. Almost all makes have such basses nowadays.

I recommend several basses if you need several tunings, at least if you have to tune more than 1 semitone either way. Beyond that, the changed tuning will affect string tension and even neck relief too much. I know I'm picky about these things, though...

 

Captain Obvious here to point out that if you want to de-tune to B, it would be much easier just to get a 5-string bass.

 

Agree, or set up for BEAD and get strings appropriate for that tuning. Drop D is pretty doable, but string that sound and play decent in E standard will be sub optimal at best when tuned to B.

 

Kalium Quake Multiscale Bass, has a 40-37 scale, perfect for detunings.
Multi-scale Bass | Kalium Music

 

Dingwalls or other extended scales are made for this.

 

You could try a Kubicki X Factor bass. I had one and the dropped D was as tense as any E.
If you get tired of the way it looks sell it to me.

 

You don't need a special bass for drop-D. It's not the bass or even the string; the key is good technique that deals with the lowered tension. Just pluck closer to the bridge in drop-D and any bass will be acceptable. Even the humble 33" scale rickenbacker 4003 sounds great in drop-D as long as you pluck over the bridge PU or use a pick.

The moral of this story - don't go buying a bunch of new basses just to play in drop-D. Maybe get a thicker gauge E string if you do it all the time, but otherwise, just detune the bass you have and enjoy.

I've played my jaco jazz bass in drop-D some this weekend with the stock Fender flats on it and it sounds fine, though plucked only over the bridge PU where I spend 98% of my time anyway. The string does start to disappear somewhat if I start moving towards the neck, so I don't do that.

A good compressor will help too.

Finally, you may find your relief goes a little "negative" due to the reduced tension. If you play with a very low action (like I do), you might notice this.

L

 

Oh PS: for dropping to B, I agree with the other guys, you'll need to go BEAD, generally. That means a new nut or dig out the current one which is a moderately complex job. And the bridge saddles might need modification too depending on your bridge.

Personally at that point, then I'd just go ahead and start expecting to have to spending money. I personally hate playing in drop-D (unless the song is specifically done in drop-D), so even a D would mean a 5, or more, string bass for me. That's also expensive and will require getting used to playing a 5+, new muting technique, narrower string spacing possibly, etc.

In other words, a low D is generally FOC involving the bass you already have, but going lower than that generally isn't.....

L

 

@Gare Boo , thanks for starting this thread as I am pondering this very question at the moment. I am involved in a King's X project that requires standard, drop D, Drop C and BEAD tunings on a 4.

@kevin wells, thanks for your reply as I was thinking a T-bird is a prime candidate for this!

 

My Steinberger L2 can handle a drop from standard (EADG with a standard .45-.105 set) all the way down to BEAD, just have to play it a little bit lighter. I have never found another bass that could do that. Since I don't play my Steinberger out anymore, I just bring two basses, one in standard and one in BEAD (yes, I know I should get a fiver, but I have never found one that is comfortable on the hand).

 

"Maybe" on the nut and bridge. I tried using a 5 string Labella Low Tension Flat set(using only the lowest 4 strings) on my Roadworn Fender P and it worked fine as far as the nut and bridge needing no modification to accommodate the thicker strings. I played it for about 15 minutes and switched it back to standard tuning because I didn't care at all for how it sounded, but setup wise it was no problem. Of course some basses will require the mods you mentioned, but just chiming in to say, not always. I've done the same thing with a MIM Strat, put on some 13-63 DR's and tuned it like a Baritone(B-B) and it worked fine with no mods. YMMV.

 

It depends on what detune is