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The Best Bass for Detuning?

"Maybe" on the nut and bridge. I tried using a 5 string Labella Low Tension Flat set(using only the lowest 4 strings) on my Roadworn Fender P and it worked fine as far as the nut and bridge needing no modification to accommodate the thicker strings. I played it for about 15 minutes and switched it back to standard tuning because I didn't care at all for how it sounded, but setup wise it was no problem. Of course some basses will require the mods you mentioned, but just chiming in to say, not always. I've done the same thing with a MIM Strat, put on some 13-63 DR's and tuned it like a Baritone(B-B) and it worked fine with no mods. YMMV.

Caveat Emptor - and strange but true: even going to a thicker guage regular string set may require a (very) light swipe or maybe even two with an appropriate nut file. Generally only if the thicker guage is a permanent change. I say may require because the slightly raised action at the nut is often acceptable. But if you're picky it might not be. Going down in gauge can be done to a point if the nut slots are cut right (meaning if I didn't cut the slots :) ), but going up can be a problem.

So I'm very skeptical that a change as large as BEAD on a regular EADG bass won't give a mile-high action at the nut, even to the point that it bugs the player significantly. Putting it another way, just plan on if going BEAD, it'll mean recutting the nut and possibly a bridge saddle or two That's kind of my motto on that. That way if you don't have to do it it's simply a pleasant surprise. Otherwise, it's a nasty surprise if you do have to recut it on a favorite bass and you don't have the tools etc... :).

L
 
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I tuned my Stingray to C with some standard gage rounds.
If you are trying to emulate a certain sound (Scott Reeder, Geezer) you may need to try and use the same equipment that was available to them at the time they recorded

I’ve never cared for the heavy gage strings for C, but have used flats as @Doner Designs suggested. The nice thing about flats, they will drive the pre amp differently from not being as bright

food for thought
 
I have a 32" scale 5 string bass with a .120 low B and it sounds great. I used to play a 34" scale bass tuned DGCF and a 34" scale bass E flat.

Those scenarios do work. What you get with a shorter scale 5 string or a detuned 4 is the overtones on change on the strings slightly. That is just the laws of physics. It is the price we pay to get low note. That is why for me I like BEADG tuning because the EADG is the unchanged with the addition of the low B string to get the lower notes.

here's my 5 string 32" scale

DSCF1381-B.JPG
 
Hello.

Are there any basses that would still maintain a good sound and tight string tension when the E string is detuned to D or B?

The tension of a particular string tuned to a particular pitch at a particular length has nothing to do with what it's attached to - there is NO such thing as a bass that has more or less tension on a low tuned string than another bass, so long as the two basses have the same scale length.

If you don't like the tension of a particular string, there are three ways to raise the tension - either a longer scale length, or a string with more mass per unit length (a bigger diameter string, usually), or...both.
 
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Hello.

Are there any basses that would still maintain a good sound and tight string tension when the E string is detuned to D or B? I suppose a multi scale 4 string would be able to do it but the longer scale under the E string makes me afraid if a longer reach.

How about a reverse headstock and string thru body, it makes the E string longer on the bass though the scale length is still the same.

Anyway, I wonder what bass sounds good and feels tight when when the E string is detuned. Thank you!
I’ve gotten more into dropping my low b down to A since I got my Dingwall because I can get away with using a .135. With my 34” in basses unless I get a massive string like a .145 or heavier I don’t like tuning them down. But my Dingwall tuned down to A has pretty much the same feel tension wise as my 5 string jazz Tuned to B. I think the longer scale also helps with articulation (better note definition) when doing super low stuff as well. So I’m not surprised at all that a lot of bass players in modern Metal bands tuning low are using them.

as for reach. I don’t think scale length always tells the whole story. A lot of it is how the bass hangs on a strap. My 37” Dingwall doesn’t feel any longer than the 34” Warwick thumb basses i played for years. I think with Dingwall they did a good job designing the basses to be comfortable. Half the extra scale length is at the bridge end of the bass and the rear strap pin location shifts the bass over to the right a little which brings the nut closer in so it’s not a crazy reach. But even reaching the tuners isn’t any different than tuning a 34” fender. You can see on my avatar picture my jazz and my Dingwall are actually almost identical in size. I even carry my Dingwall around in a skb case designed for fender basses. Reaching the tuners on the Dingwall isn’t any different than reaching the A or D string tuners on the 5 string jazz because the fender headstock is so long. But yeah I don’t have any issues playing my Dingwall. You can see in this picture my arms are pretty relaxed and you can see where the strap connects to the bass. I’m 5’10”, it’s not like I’m 7 feet tall or anything.
22044DEE-9D2E-4E3D-BCB1-6DA8DFACAA06.jpeg
 
I run my schecter BEAD with the hipshot set to drop down to A just because. Just run the low end of a 5 set and you'll be fine. I Add compression and boost the low mid more than the low on my amp and I get a gnarly growl and notes that ring out despite some mud in the tone.
 

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Mike Lull M5V 5-string w/ 35" scale

D'addario NYXLs, 45s to 130s.

Hipshot D Tuner on the B string to drop to low A when deemed necessary.

Works fine, adjust the playing a little when dropped to A.

I went from Power Slinkies (50s to 135s) down to the medium gauge NYXLs as part of an effort to play lighter. At first, I was a bummed at the 130 B string when dropped to A, then I realized I was hitting it too hard. Playing it lighter and more toward the bridge, as was mentioned earlier, resolved that issue.

I've put D Tuners on all my basses.
 
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@Gare Boo , thanks for starting this thread as I am pondering this very question at the moment. I am involved in a King's X project that requires standard, drop D, Drop C and BEAD tunings on a 4.

@kevin wells, thanks for your reply as I was thinking a T-bird is a prime candidate for this!

Whoa, I saw "King's X" and my ears perked right up!
They started off in the '80s in standard and drop D, and then began their downward descent with Dogman.
I got their tunings all figured out now, and a roomful of basses to show for it, LOL!
Most of their songs are really meant for a drop tuning, so the old just get a fiver or just get a BEAD, just don't work for their songs. (Except the Black Like Sunday album, which I think was either a BEAD or a fiver)
I was trying to use my BEAD for some of their songs, and I would sometimes drop the E on it to get drop D, and just ignore the B string, but then I just started acquiring more basses, so I dedicated them with all sorts of increasing gauges to match their descending tunings.
I have;
One standard, that I drop tune to D sometimes
One flat standard/drop D flat sometimes
One in drop C
One in drop B
One in BEAD/drop A sometimes (mainly everything on the Mr. Bulbous album)
I've been using DR DDTs with reasonable success, and now I have a Rick fiver wearing Lo Riders.
 
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I've used RotoSound RS77 jazz flats to tune down to B to play "Rusty Cage" on a cheap 34" 4-string Ibanez, and it sounded pretty reasonable (certainly better than Ben Shepherd's farty tone on that song :rolleyes:). I agree with everyone who said the key is in the strings - high tension strings like Rotosounds will give you a greater chance of success with low tunings.
 
Rotosound%20BS66.jpg


strings will matter a lot more here. This is a nice set, readily available, and the slightly thicker E is made with detuning in mind.

as far as the bass goes, something really stable will help. big thick neck, or a graphite neck, 5 piece (some examples better than others), or exotic wood.

a "regular" one piece maple neck, or a fender skunk stripe or something, will be okay. but if its something you do a lot of you may want to seek out bubinga, wenge, teak, graphite, or similar necks.