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The John East preamp club

Okay, after taking a peek at Nordstrand's documentation, here's the deal:

Black and white are the coil start/end wires. This is what generates the signal.

Gray is a shielding wire.

So the gray should ALWAYS go to ground. Period. For noise rejection.

For the black and white signal wires, follow the preamp maker's instructions.
I'm trying to. My tech wired the grey to the power side..I just discovered this. Im just trying to find rhe appropriate place to ground the grey wires and it looks like i have may have that sorted due to the info you guys have given me. I will hunt for a central ground point to connect the grey wires.
I can't imagine it changing the sound, but if it helps with any noise at all it will be worth it. I get a wicked buzz if I accidentally touch the pole pieces. Otherwise it's pretty darn quiet for single coils.
 
I'm trying to. My tech wired the grey to the power side..I just discovered this. Im just trying to find rhe appropriate place to ground the grey wires and it looks like i have may have that sorted due to the info you guys have given me. I will hunt for a central ground point to connect the grey wires.
I can't imagine it changing the sound, but if it helps with any noise at all it will be worth it. I get a wicked buzz if I accidentally touch the pole pieces. Otherwise it's pretty darn quiet for single coils.

You definitely want the grey wires to connect to the signal ground, not the battery negative!. It will stop any buzz when you touch the pole pieces.
 
You definitely want the grey wires to connect to the signal ground, not the battery negative!. It will stop any buzz when you touch the pole pieces.
I notice it I touch the pole pieces and strings, there is no buzz. Does this mean I can send rhe grey wires to the bridge ground or fo they need to be connected to the pickup wire neutral?

Sorry fir all the questions. I can't tell much of what goes where. There semes to be no central ground point i can see woth all these sperate modules and I have a rat nest in here.
 
I notice it I touch the pole pieces and strings, there is no buzz. Does this mean I can send rhe grey wires to the bridge ground or fo they need to be connected to the pickup wire neutral?

Sorry fir all the questions. I can't tell much of what goes where. There semes to be no central ground point i can see woth all these sperate modules and I have a rat nest in here.

Ok, your black and white pickup leads go the volume module. You can simply twist the two grey wires from the pickups together with another wire (to extend) that goes to the signal ground tag of the output jack. Solder and insulate the connections, and you should be good to go.

Make sure you solder the ground to the right lug of the output jack - it should be the tag for the sleeve of the 1/4inch TRS output jack. You can easily check using continuity mode of a multimeter and signal lead plugged into the jack
 
I notice it I touch the pole pieces and strings, there is no buzz. Does this mean I can send rhe grey wires to the bridge ground or fo they need to be connected to the pickup wire neutral?

The bridge ground will probably be connected to the cavity shielding or the output jack signal ground. Your pickup ground connection should go to the output jack signal ground as well.

Have a look at the Seymour Duncan knowledge base - lots of good info there, albeit a little focused on passive guitars.

Seymour Duncan



Sorry fir all the questions. I can't tell much of what goes where. There semes to be no central ground point i can see woth all these sperate modules and I have a rat nest in here.
 
Ok, your black and white pickup leads go the volume module. You can simply twist the two grey wires from the pickups together with another wire (to extend) that goes to the signal ground tag of the output jack. Solder and insulate the connections, and you should be good to go.

Make sure you solder the ground to the right lug of the output jack - it should be the tag for the sleeve of the 1/4inch TRS output jack. You can easily check using continuity mode of a multimeter and signal lead plugged into the jack

That will certainly work.

But any good ground will do. Back of a pot, piggybacked off of a known ground point on the preamp boards, bridge ground, even solder to the copper shielding wire (as long as the shield has a good connection to ground).

All grounds are connected to the sleeve terminal of the jack (or should be; if they're not then they're not grounds). So you can connect to anything that is connected to the sleeve terminal.

Different pickup manufacturers follow different practices. Sometimes a coil ground (one end of a coil) will be permanently connected to a shield ground, like a classic Gibson P90 with its single braided wire. Other manufacturers separate the coil connections and the shielding connection(s), like Nordstrand. Obviously having separate connections allows for more flexibility in wiring the circuit, but it can also cause confusion if you don't understand what each wire does.

We are here to help!
 
That will certainly work.

But any good ground will do. Back of a pot, piggybacked off of a known ground point on the preamp boards, bridge ground, even solder to the copper shielding wire (as long as the shield has a good connection to ground).

All grounds are connected to the sleeve terminal of the jack (or should be; if they're not then they're not grounds). So you can connect to anything that is connected to the sleeve terminal.

Different pickup manufacturers follow different practices. Sometimes a coil ground (one end of a coil) will be permanently connected to a shield ground, like a classic Gibson P90 with its single braided wire. Other manufacturers separate the coil connections and the shielding connection(s), like Nordstrand. Obviously having separate connections allows for more flexibility in wiring the circuit, but it can also cause confusion if you don't understand what each wire does.

We are here to help!
You are helping. I just found out the nords big singles have an extra ground thanks to yall. I assume that it's to give the body of the pickup a common ground with everything else (I know all about ground loops and grounding issues in other fields).

This keeps the pickup body ground out of the pickups signal flow, I think. Not sure why else they'd do it this way.
 
First, there are no ground loops inside our instruments. There is one and only one ground plane, and that's controlled by the sleeve of the jack.

The benefit of having the shield ground separate from the coil ground is the ability to reverse the coil wires in case of phase issues with other pickups, and/or the ability to employ a series/parallel circuit, without sacrificing shielding.
 
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I have some single coil pickups with 3 wires.

The grey (3rd wire) is supposed to go to the pres common.

Anyone know where to connect those wires on a uni pre?

For the UNI-PRE:
+ White to HOT Input
+ Black & Grey to GND.

Black & White are from the coil, Grey is a separate Ground/Screen. This arrangement allows the coil to be isolated from ground, necessary with an Audere where the coil is effectively "floating", connected directly to the electronics. (If the black was grounded, it would prevent the Audere from working) So, the grey is a separate screening ground that can be grounded without issue.
 
For the UNI-PRE:
+ White to HOT Input
+ Black & Grey to GND.

Black & White are from the coil, Grey is a separate Ground/Screen. This arrangement allows the coil to be isolated from ground, necessary with an Audere where the coil is effectively "floating", connected directly to the electronics. (If the black was grounded, it would prevent the Audere from working) So, the grey is a separate screening ground that can be grounded without issue.
Doesn't get any clearer than that. Thanks!
 
First, there are no ground loops inside our instruments. There is one and only one ground plane, and that's controlled by the sleeve of the jack.

The benefit of having the shield ground separate from the coil ground is the ability to reverse the coil wires in case of phase issues with other pickups, and/or the ability to employ a series/parallel circuit, without sacrificing shielding.
That makes sense. Thanks.
 
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I need a little help understanding how the uni affects the pickup resonace peak.

It's my understanding that pickups and even cables alter this resonate peak in passive instruments
The uni is buffered, so the cables aren't in play, but is there anything in the east pre that affects the pickups upper peak?

I've asked about tone caps , but never got any kind of answer anywhere.
I despise where my pups current peak is. It sounds pretty bad. I can brute force it with eq, but I'd rather move the peak is possible.

If my thinking is off, please do explain. I'd really like to know how the uni pres affect this, of they do at all.
 
Hi East Preamp Enthusiasts,

I'm about to dive into the East preamp world with a regualr j setup, but qas wondering:

Could a J-tone preamp work with a Delano MM-J combination?

I'm looking at a SBC 4 HE/S MM at the bridge, and a JSBC 4 HE at the neck, in j-bass positions.

Delano has systems for this but I'm thinking of a mod to a j-bass and like to keep things simple, so a drop in would be perfect.

I'd have a separate switch for the mm coils.
 
I have a. MM/J setup but I went with Unipre, very versatile.
IMG_0936.jpeg
 
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