The John East preamp club

[smeet]

I recently put a Uni Pre 4 knob into my sadowsky PJ5 (precision body with front and rear cutouts, rear is bigger).

It was a challenge to fit everything in there, as the boards are pretty big. Then when I put the pickguard and rear cavity cover back, I found the treble/bass board is a bit too tall to fit. There isn't room to grind the board down, and deepening the rout is scary as the front is already thin.

So what are my options? I like this pre and this bass. But it's so big!

 

[JZQuantum]

Have you tested all of your grounded points using the continuity setting on your multimeter? You might have a broken wire or bad solder.

Yeah, but to your point it could be the intermittent or something. I am redoing the install as I'm typing this. We'll see how it goes.

 

[Neon Blues]

My 2 cents;
#1. Nordstrand Pickups + J. East Preamp's=The two greatest electronic engineers & innovators in bass guitar electronics design.. By a mile!! So yes, I believe it will absolutely be your last mod!

#2. John East's circuit's really aren't designed to be used a ton active bypassed.
I believe East's own (paraphrased) words were; "Its there to keep your sound from going dead.. A basic save your ass during a gig should your battery die switch"Obviously they can be.. But really shouldn't be, for a couple reasons;
The first most & obvious imho is WHY would you want to?!?
The thing is active there's a great deal more going on electronically which's sonically beneficial, beyond simply being a tone control.. From decoupling your pickups' & routing each signal independently through 2 isolated active (and passive!) channels. To removing the load on your pickups, providing a fully buffered low impedance/very low noise output to your amp/D.I./Interference whatever.. Driving long cable runs/true bypass fx etc.. Preserving & improving the true sound of your (awesome Nordy) pickups. And so much more!!

P.S.; Have you experimented with the internal gain trimpot's or rotary wheels (I believe they're using thumb-wheel's now)?? Also the Bass, It could be boost only even if it has a center detent. Which at center detent can account for at least a 5-9db gain increase!

I have a Jazz with Nordstrands and a J-Retro. I redefined to me what a bass should sound like.

 

[Joshua Thomas]

Hey everyone.

I'm new to this forum as I have only been playing bass for around a year (20 years on acoustic guitar). So, I have feel in love with the instrument, the sound, and it's really causing me to fall in love with music in a new way. Having said that… I bought a 2012 Fender Jazz DLX bass. I have had it totally shielded and installed Lindy Fralin Split Jazz 5% overwound. I mostly play spiritual music, funk, and folky blues. I love grit, growl, and a warm vintage tone.
So, I have made a decision to upgrade the preamp. Not loving the stock preamp and this causes me to play passive 90% of the time. I contacted John East and he informed me the Uni won't fit in a jazz bass so that means i will be getting a J Retro DLX. My big question is… Flat or Pre-shaped? What are the pros and cons? Would love some in depth feedback and recommendation.

 

[ctmullins]

Welcome @Joshua Thomas - what do you not like about your current preamp?

 

[Joshua Thomas]

Welcome @Joshua Thomas - what do you not like about your current preamp?

It does not feel as organic as the passive sound. Sound kind of processed. I don't find the preamp sound to be musical. I have a genzler cab that I play through and shape my sound through the amp, but just find the stock onboard preamp lacking. I have heard the East will sound more alive and organic and that is the main draw. I also like the idea of tweaking the mids for more punch and growl. Not sure if the answers your question.

 

[SteveCS]

My big question is… Flat or Pre-shaped? What are the pros and cons?

There is probably little in the pre-shape filter that the standard can't achieve with the knobs. I don't have the Retro-DLX but I do have the MMSR 3-band. There is no setting, even the most extreme (and daft) that doesn't have organic musical qualities - I doubt the Retro is any different in that regard. John's designs are superlative IME, so whichever way you go you are in for a treat, IMHO.

 

[bigtone23]

Hey everyone.

I'm new to this forum as I have only been playing bass for around a year (20 years on acoustic guitar). So, I have feel in love with the instrument, the sound, and it's really causing me to fall in love with music in a new way. Having said that… I bought a 2012 Fender Jazz DLX bass. I have had it totally shielded and installed Lindy Fralin Split Jazz 5% overwound. I mostly play spiritual music, funk, and folky blues. I love grit, growl, and a warm vintage tone.
So, I have made a decision to upgrade the preamp. Not loving the stock preamp and this causes me to play passive 90% of the time. I contacted John East and he informed me the Uni won't fit in a jazz bass so that means i will be getting a J Retro DLX. My big question is… Flat or Pre-shaped? What are the pros and cons? Would love some in depth feedback and recommendation.

I would go flat.
I put a J Retro in my 72 J about 20 years ago with a set of Bartolini 9J1. These Barts are humbucking and have a little bump in the lows, smoother highs. Really like them.
My J Retro has the pre-shape, it was the only option then. I like the sound, but if this was done today, I would go with the flat option (especially with these Barts). My tastes have changed and I prefer a touch more mids. Also, the pre doesn't cut bass to compensate for the Barts, the bass control stops at flat. Sure, a little mid boost can sort of get closer to "flat", but would rather just start there from the inherent voicing.
This is just splitting hairs, though. It's an amazing preamp. Plus, it's not something that I would go to the time, trouble and expense of swapping out.

 

[HutHutHuda]

Does anyone here think a Uni-Pre 3 or 4 would fit in this control cavity? Picts attached, but let me know if you need more info. (Yamaha BBN5II).

 

[Zeom]

Does anyone here think a Uni-Pre 3 or 4 would fit in this control cavity? Picts attached, but let me know if you need more info. (Yamaha BBN5II).

View attachment 7103342

Looks tight

 

[daddymactx]

Does anyone here think a Uni-Pre 3 or 4 would fit in this control cavity? Picts attached, but let me know if you need more info. (Yamaha BBN5II).

View attachment 7103342

You may want to send this pic to John directly. [email protected]

 

[SteveCS]

Does anyone here think a Uni-Pre 3 or 4 would fit in this control cavity? Picts attached, but let me know if you need more info. (Yamaha BBN5II).

View attachment 7103342

It looks tight to me - the boards might fit but I'm not sure it would leave enough for the battery. Perhaps the BTB module might be a better option. Also, that looks like left-handed VVT - I don't think any of John's tone modules would fit where the tone control currently lives (left-most in the picture)...

 

[HutHutHuda]

It looks tight to me - the boards might fit but I'm not sure it would leave enough for the battery. Perhaps the BTB module might be a better option. Also, that looks like left-handed VVT - I don't think any of John's tone modules would fit where the tone control currently lives (left-most in the picture)...

Indeed it's lefty.

 

[HutHutHuda]

You may want to send this pic to John directly. [email protected]

Sent. Thanks!

 

[MaxSpinrun]

Agree. Looks very tight . I installed a UniPre 5 knob in my Lakland 44-02 and it was very tight fit, but it went in with not much room to spare. It was soooo worth it though!

 

[HutHutHuda]

It looks tight to me - the boards might fit but I'm not sure it would leave enough for the battery. Perhaps the BTB module might be a better option. Also, that looks like left-handed VVT - I don't think any of John's tone modules would fit where the tone control currently lives (left-most in the picture)...

How do the BTB modules work?

 

[SteveCS]

How do the BTB modules work?

It's a 2-band EQ with a single stack-knob arrangement. The problem with the cavity on your bass is that you would have to put the module in the middle hole which isn't a typical arrangement. Maybe Blend / BTB / Vol would work?

BTB 01 | East UK

The BTB-01 consists of a single stack knob with Bass (boost only), Treble (boost & cut) and Pull for Bright. Its low noise high quality circuit is based ...

www.east-uk.com

 

[Jurbanski]

Need Help with Aguilar 3 Wire Hum Cancelling Pickups.
I just Purchased a J Tone 01 Preamp and a Set of Aggie J Hum Cancelling Pickups. I cannot get the Bridge Pickup working.
I have combined the Grey & Black Wires and secured to the Ground Terminals; the Hot Wires are to their assigned Terminals. The only sound I get from the Bridge Pickups is when I tap on the Hot Wire itself, nothing from the Pickup.

I am not finding a lot of info about Wire Color Codes from Aguilar other than Grey is Shielding. I have tried reversing a few things, but I cannot get the Bridge pickup working.

I could use a few Suggestions if anyone has used Aguilar J Pickups with this preamp.
Thanks for your time.

 

[XLunacy]

Both pickups should have the same color coding, so if your neck pickup is working you should be fine on that matter.

I'd suggest you swap bridge and neck pickups at the preamp and try again ; depending on the results you'll know if the bridge PU is malfunctioning, if it's the preamp, or your wiring.

 

[Jurbanski]

Both pickups should have the same color coding, so if your neck pickup is working you should be fine on that matter.

I'd suggest you swap bridge and neck pickups at the preamp and try again ; depending on the results you'll know if the bridge PU is malfunctioning, if it's the preamp, or your wiring.

Thanks for the reminder to check the Pickup itself. I ASSumed that since the pickup was New it couldn't be the Culprit. The Bridge pickup is defective and being returned. Thanks again for the Help.