If I had money to spare, I'd wouldn't mind one of these for BEAD
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Did some reading on B strings on TB and thought I'd summarise some conclusions regarding Tension, Feel and sound.
1. Tension . This is basically set in stone. If you want a greater tension you can
a/ increase the string unit weight
b/ increase the scale length
c/ increase the pitch.
Obviously option C is ruled out if tuning BEAD. Option B requires no comment. Option A does not necessarily mean an increase in gauge. Eg A rotosound 77 .110 is the same gauge as a Chrome .110 but has more lbf. Obviously differences in how the greater unit weight is achieved given the same gauge is involved.
2. Feeling .
a/ String stiffness
Is the string stiffer without any tension applied. Larger and or higher tensile core. Material around the core beneath windings, round core/hex core, flexibility
b/ bass construction variables given the same scale length. Neck thickness, head stock design ( fender type or back angled) to name a couple of things
3/ Sound
a/ heavy or light touch
b/ pickup placement, type, height
c/ manipulation via eq, effects, sound delivery ie cabs/ speakers/ headphones. Active/passive
d/ Sustain
i/string gauge, type and tension.
ii/The top loading vs string thru argument.
iii/Neck attachment method argument.
d/Timbre. Expression and arrangement of the harmonics. This is a mix of bass construction and string choices.
Think that about covers it.
If I have missed some aspects of what or what doesn't result in a good B or have some stuff wrong, please add or correct
I can't change my basses at the moment for a longer scale length for B. I plan on trying a more lbf string like a Roto 77 .130. The necks on my basses are pretty thick. Both fender style headstocks. I have tried a spacer, and didn't notice any difference in string feel. I will try getting the string winding down as far as possible on the post for a greater break angle at the nut. For now it's C#EAD for me which is where the B strings I have on feel the best for both my basses. Equivalent of having the .132 Chrome tuned to B0 at a 36" scale length. The .128 La Bella on my other bass would be B0 at a 38" scale length
1. Tension . This is basically set in stone. If you want a greater tension you can
a/ increase the string unit weight
b/ increase the scale length
c/ increase the pitch.
Obviously option C is ruled out if tuning BEAD. Option B requires no comment. Option A does not necessarily mean an increase in gauge. Eg A rotosound 77 .110 is the same gauge as a Chrome .110 but has more lbf. Obviously differences in how the greater unit weight is achieved given the same gauge is involved.
2. Feeling .
a/ String stiffness
Is the string stiffer without any tension applied. Larger and or higher tensile core. Material around the core beneath windings, round core/hex core, flexibility
b/ bass construction variables given the same scale length. Neck thickness, head stock design ( fender type or back angled) to name a couple of things
3/ Sound
a/ heavy or light touch
b/ pickup placement, type, height
c/ manipulation via eq, effects, sound delivery ie cabs/ speakers/ headphones. Active/passive
d/ Sustain
i/string gauge, type and tension.
ii/The top loading vs string thru argument.
iii/Neck attachment method argument.
d/Timbre. Expression and arrangement of the harmonics. This is a mix of bass construction and string choices.
Think that about covers it.
If I have missed some aspects of what or what doesn't result in a good B or have some stuff wrong, please add or correct
I can't change my basses at the moment for a longer scale length for B. I plan on trying a more lbf string like a Roto 77 .130. The necks on my basses are pretty thick. Both fender style headstocks. I have tried a spacer, and didn't notice any difference in string feel. I will try getting the string winding down as far as possible on the post for a greater break angle at the nut. For now it's C#EAD for me which is where the B strings I have on feel the best for both my basses. Equivalent of having the .132 Chrome tuned to B0 at a 36" scale length. The .128 La Bella on my other bass would be B0 at a 38" scale length
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Proddy, I've added a link to these Conclusions on the BEAD 4 String Bass Wiki page, at the bottom of the How-To section.
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Cheers G-D. Hopefully not too many errors in it. I think I have a reasonable understanding of B-stringism though he heProddy, I've added a link to these Conclusions on the BEAD 4 String Bass Wiki page, at the bottom of the How-To section.
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A few oldies but goodies with a focus on bass construction in the context of a good B https://www.talkbass.com/threads/what-makes-a-b-string-good.40029/
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/b-string-tight-or-floppy.35299/
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/b-string-tight-or-floppy.35299/
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Been hanging onto this 1969 body like grim death and saving to go to a local guitar building workshop to make a 35" scale maple neck for it. A one hundred track long trip hop/rock writing project has been crying out for the low B. Having scratch-built around a dozen 34" Fender shape basses I'm not scared, but man am I hanging to get the spare cash to do it. A mortgage has really put the brakes on all the fun stuff...
I am finding myself interested in having a B, but not in having a 5-string.
I have also found that my broken old hands really like the short scale of a 30" bass.
I also have the original full-scale Sterling 4HH I bought as my first bass before finding short scales. I have not gotten rid of that for some reason or another.
If I were to make the Sterling into a BEAD machine, then just play the EADG 5 frets up unless I need the drop tuning, would that be similar to playing a short scale?
Or would I really be messing my brain up?
Or would my hand/brain want to go be using the open strings?
In which case, I would be back in the long scale hurts my hands issue?
Partly wondering if I could put that Sterling to use somehow rather than switching one of my 30"ers to BEAD
I have also found that my broken old hands really like the short scale of a 30" bass.
I also have the original full-scale Sterling 4HH I bought as my first bass before finding short scales. I have not gotten rid of that for some reason or another.
If I were to make the Sterling into a BEAD machine, then just play the EADG 5 frets up unless I need the drop tuning, would that be similar to playing a short scale?
Or would I really be messing my brain up?
Or would my hand/brain want to go be using the open strings?
In which case, I would be back in the long scale hurts my hands issue?
Partly wondering if I could put that Sterling to use somehow rather than switching one of my 30"ers to BEAD
Can't speak to your hands. I can tell you I found it harder to go to BEAD than to start on the 5. Could be because older me has a less malleable brain. Or because it's easier to slip into old habits without the extra string to constantly remind me.
It's got to be worth a try. Worst that could happen is you need to replace your filed out nut to go back to standard tuning. Which might not even be necessary if no buzz or rattle happens going back.
I would agree with Factory Presets, but might add that your markers will be off (if you use them) if you are playing EADG on the 5th fret with a capo. Also, I would think that it might feel even shorter than your short scale.
but like was mentioned… not much harm in trying it out
but like was mentioned… not much harm in trying it out
I had not thought about the fret markers being off. But, yeah, that would be a thing.
Run scales and etudes up and down the neck of the BEAD while mentally reciting the note names till I get a picture of both necks fixed in my head. Fair doos it was harder with BEAD than it was with the 5er.
I couldn't adjust, so now all my 4-string basses are in BEAD.
I'm no longer into BEAD. I'm into BEA instead he he he .D strings now in the wardrobe drawer with all those G strings ha ha. Nudge nudge, wink wink, say no more
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If you capo'd a long scale at the 5 th fret in BEAD tuning it would be the equivalent of a sub short scale 25.5" tuned to EADG. You would have to tune up to DGCF on the long scale and capo the second fret to get the equivalent of a 30" short scale in EADG.
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Hi BEADers!
I bought a Guild Starfire II and it arrived on Friday. After putting it through it's paces with the stock strings this weekend, I went to change them for my favored LaBella LTFs tonight and the nut popped off. I restrung it and it's fine. But it got me wondering where I can find a pre-cut 38mm nut for BEAD. I have a set of Dunlop 40-120 flats on the way and I've been going back and forth on whether I want to convert the Guild or my Mustang. If I can find a drop in replacement, converting the Guild seems like the easy option.
Your thoughts appreciated. Thanks!
I bought a Guild Starfire II and it arrived on Friday. After putting it through it's paces with the stock strings this weekend, I went to change them for my favored LaBella LTFs tonight and the nut popped off. I restrung it and it's fine. But it got me wondering where I can find a pre-cut 38mm nut for BEAD. I have a set of Dunlop 40-120 flats on the way and I've been going back and forth on whether I want to convert the Guild or my Mustang. If I can find a drop in replacement, converting the Guild seems like the easy option.
Your thoughts appreciated. Thanks!
I bought an adjustable (height adjustable) nut online and filed it to BEAD using old strings as files. It was easier than I thought it would be and was only about $10.
Something like this might work. Roller for the E string looks wide
Invalid Link Removed
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Welcome a new Club number! 
#104 @Britsie
I'm getting there, too, Brit! My top three basses are all BEAD. 
I'll be monitoring to add more members as they post here. If I skipped anyone, please let me know. There's still a few numbers left for even more members!
And, you can find the entire BEAD Membership list on the BEAD Club Wiki page.
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