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The Modified BEAD 4 String Bass Club

#521
factory presets said:
I had a couple of 5s before I tried BEAD, so I had some lying around. Don't know why I like four bangers so much but I just felt the need for low notes on a four. More fun standing up for a long time, for one thing. Note choice is a more conscious thing for another.
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I've never owned a 5 stringer. I can see advantages with the G string, but I prefer 4 string basses. I figure if you can't make music on a 4, than and extra string or even less strings ain't gonna change things much.
Regarding note choice, I keep telling myself with BEAD 'you have 17 more pitches than on an E standard tuned 4 string bass, that occur nowhere on an E standard tuned 6 string guitar. Find em' and use em'. 38 pitches in total. Put another way, BEAD gives you more fretboard real estate to avoid the guitarist(s) in the band. Gives a whole new meaning to 'bass guitar'
 
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#523
I did a little experimentation by putting a broken in Chrome 132 in place of the Jamerson 128T. Not for the sound difference. The Chrome is more thuddy than the unbroken in Jamerson. Rather, I just wanted to see if the relief stayed the same or changed. It looks to have remained the same. From this I infer that the Jamerson has around 5% more tension than the Chrome, factoring in the gauge difference. Stiffer of course. The Chrome as B had greater clarity begin at E1, whilst the Jamerson it was F1.
My SND ( string neurosis disorder) is kicking into gear. Must be the heat he he
 
#524
To my knowledge LaBella only makes one DTF B string and wraps different silk around the end to go with different sets. Blue for FM & 1954, black for FS, Red for FL... I'm potentially looking for a flatwound B with higher tension to go on a medium scale BEAD bass. Currently using a Fender 34" JB with a G&L bridge, which really helps with the low notes.
 
#526
danalogue said:
To my knowledge LaBella only makes one DTF B string and wraps different silk around the end to go with different sets. Blue for FM & 1954, black for FS, Red for FL... I'm potentially looking for a flatwound B with higher tension to go on a medium scale BEAD bass. Currently using a Fender 34" JB with a G&L bridge, which really helps with the low notes.
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I started a search on TB for 760FX-CB and see if any comments about the 128 being tapered or non tapered. I'm sure I read somewhere that one set or another of La Bella DTF had a non tapered 128. Could be wrong.
 
#527
Seems La Bella was able to do a non tapered 128 as part of a special order if I read the last post in this old thread correctly https://www.talkbass.com/threads/760fm-are-not-perfectly-balanced.1143929/#post-17161226
Others have compared the 132 Chrome to a tapered 128 La Bella, in this case it was not a Jamerson 128T, and both the Chrome and La Bellas were new. https://www.talkbass.com/threads/disappointing-b-string-in-la-bella-deep-talkin-flats-set.1437981/
Next up for me will be to pair a single .125 ( Rotosound list the JBL125 on their 77 singles page, but it is not part of any 77 set, nor is it listed on the Rotosound string tension page) or .130 JBL135 Rotosound 77 with the 095 075 050 from the 50-110 set. Like to make a comparison of these strings with the Jamersons as far as BEAD goes
 
#528
I've read in a few places on TB about using an extender on a B string for greater clarity and or to get the thicker section of the string on the saddle instead of a tapered section e.g https://www.talkbass.com/threads/flats-on-a-5.1410828/page-4
So I thought I I'd give it a go. Used a section of stainless steel drinking straw.
I had to lower the saddle some afterwards and just move the saddle back a smidge.
Result. A waste of time. The open string sounded more dull . I presume because of the decrease in break angle from the nut to the tuning post due to less winding. So I guess doing this with a new string cut to length with more turns along with the extender might yield a more worthwhile outcome for the open B. I didn't notice any change in tone or clarity with fretted notes.
IMG_20240130_115726.jpg
 
#529
FFTT said:
Back in the early 90's I started thinking about a 5 string bass,
just to get that extra low B string.

I've alway been a hold the bottom, drive with the kick type player especially playing in a 5 piece group where holding down the bottom was important.

Then I went shopping and just didn't fall in love with any 5 string at any price point. My fingers are short and the necks just felt too wide.

So, after a bit of pondering, I decided to modify my '79 USA Custom Shop Schecter PJ just enough to run the low 4 strings of a 5 string set.

A simple, easily reversible mod, plus resetting intonation.

That's the way the bass remains today.

What I liked beyond retaining the slimmer 60's neck width,
was that the change in attack angle on the relocated E & A strings gave the E & A more punch and I didn't miss the G nearly as much as I thought I might.

Since then, other players have picked up on this idea saving them the cost of a new bass, while still getting the lows they were after.

Reversing the mod is as simple as replacing the nut and setting the bass back up for traditional 4 string operation.

Just wondered how many of you have tried this.
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#530
FFTT,I went from 4 to 5 and I’m back to 4.I miss hangin around the B.Like you the 5 neck was feeling cumbersome, I’ve had major issues with hand an finger trauma, I’ve got a graphite neck on the 4 and it’s lighter ,faster, easier for me to dial in. Definitely going to try it out plus your sentiments about the G missing won’t make that much difference, I understand you need the G for chords and such.Im more about the groove.
 
#534
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#537
Ok folks, what's a guy to do. I'm really content with the gauges I use for EAD, namely Jamersons 095 073 052 and Chromes 095 070 050. The feel and sound just meets my desires. But the B in both case, the 128 tapered La Bella and the Chrome 132 just don't feel right. I thought the stiffer nature of the 128 would have got me into 'feels right' territory, but that ain't happening. Only tuning up to C# with either string works for me. If I was to put it down to tension alone, it would be the equivalent of 140 or something. And that isn't going to be an option, given that a readily available flat in that gauge not happening.
Anyone have any ideas? Has anybody used C#EAD as a long term work around for a B they can't bond with? I recall seeing something about a bridge that was offset for B to have a longer scale length but it wasn't offset enough to make much difference tension wise.
Not a fan of rounds, but if I had to switch to em to have a B I like, than I guess I could give it a shot. I've read about a 4 string 36.25-34" multiscale ESP LTD here https://www.talkbass.com/threads/4-string-multi-scale-options.1505577/ but those suckers are pretty expensive and 'cheap' is my middle name
 
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#539
Gadgetman6754 said:
Traditional 34” scale I presume…. Have you considered a fanned fret (multiscale) bass, or is that an option?

My thoughts only because I can’t help you much here, as I am content with my setup (125 for the B)
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The LTD is fanned. But as said, costs way more than a cheap guy like me would pay for a bass. Unless I was a professional or something.
I've seen this budget Artist 5 string multiscale Artist AMSB5 Black 5 String Multiscale Bass GuitarAMSB5 . Artist is a budget brand in Australia.
But the drawbacks are 1. Its a 5 string. 2. It's headless 3. The bass side is a measley 1" longer than a standard 34". So all taken together, it doesn't interest me
 
#540
Prodigus Filius said:
The LTD is fanned. But as said, costs way more than a cheap guy like me would pay for a bass. Unless I was a professional or something.
I've seen this budget Artist 5 string multiscale Artist AMSB5 Black 5 String Multiscale Bass GuitarAMSB5 . Artist is a budget brand in Australia.
But the drawbacks are 1. Its a 5 string. 2. It's headless 3. The bass side is a measley 1" longer than a standard 34". So all taken together, it doesn't interest me
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Ahhh… gotcha. Sorry I’m not of much assistance here. Hopefully someone else here will be of some assistance.
 

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