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The more I look at basses...

We have it relatively lucky compared to classical players. That said, I just don't have the disposable income to spend 4 large on an instrument, unless maybe I sold everything and consolidated it in one axe
 
Last time I spec'd out my dream bass it came to around 2k for a standard model, 3k if I added the cosmetic fun stuff. All the while, I'd be happy to play the basses I currently own until I die, none of which cost me more than $800 (used Lakland 55-01 plus modifications). That said...

The more I look at basses, the more $4,000 does not seem like a lot of money to spend on an instrument.

... and, well if you're going to spend $4,000, why not spend $7,000 and get what you really want?
...this reminds me that I just got an email advert from Lemur (well known doublebass dealer) with the tag line something like:

"Fully Carved basses for less than $10,000!"

You can get a fine instrument for less of course, but it's fair to say that the top end of electric bass prices is about the very bottom end of semi-pro Jazz or Orchestral upright bass prices. When you see what other instrumentalists have to spend to get a high-quality instrument it puts a new perspective on what we pay.

Of course we tend to own far more instruments and they are a bit easier to make, but it's still quite an eye opener.
 
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For some odd reason this thread makes me think of the taglines in the J. G. Wentworth commercials. "It's my money and I need it now!" and "It's your money, use it when you need it!"

Yes, it's your money, buy the bass you want. :)

M. M.
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I think the law of diminishing returns applies very strongly to instruments. Meaning I agree there is a lot more to gain by going from $300 to $1500 than by going from $1500 to $3000, and even beyond that, there is more gained going from $1500 to $3000 than by going from $3000 to $6000 or more. I feel very strongly that this is true and a natural occurrence of the realities of producing goods.

I will add that *there is no other way* to get those last few % points of awesome other than to pay for it. Your best bet at cutting corners is to buy from a slightly newer, less hot and totally respected/established custom builder. Like get a Rybski before an Elrick, or a Roscoe before a Fodera or Sadowski.
 
Busted. I'll confess I threw a set of Aguilar AG-4P-60s in mine, and I've been thinking of adding either a Lawrence Q-Filter with a push-pull...or a Stellartone cap switcher for the last few months now. :bag:

I recommend adding the Q as an independent midrange cut, while keeping the standard tone available, just as on the Ripper. On the P, I did that with a stacked control pot with both Q and standard tone. I have suggested to Becky that they update the Q info on the website to include that as a recommended option. I wouldn't want to be stuck with only one or the other.

Time for me to stop straying from the thread topic. Sorry.

Otto
 
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I recommend adding the Q as an independent midrange cut, while keeping the standard tone available, just as on the Ripper. On the P, I did that with a stacked control pot with both Q and standard tone. I have suggested to Becky that they update the Q info on the website to include that as a recommended option. I wouldn't want to be stuck with only one or the other.

Time for me to stop straying from the thread topic. Sorry.

Otto

That was one possible plan actually. I'm a big believer in a passive midrange control for bass. That passive midrange (plus those Lawrence designed sidewinder pickups) are what makes a Ripper a Ripper. Something Gibson forgot when they released the limited edition Ripper II.

I'll stop straying too. Apologies all.
 
the biggest difference between instruments IS the price you pay, imo. most of the ingredients are similar. some parts just cost more. some builders just charge more. some buyers will just pay more.
one guy pays $7000.00. a year later, another guy buys the exact same bass for $5000.00. a year later, i buy it for $2500.00! a year later, i sell it for....

How true...

I bought two Steinbergers in the 90s for $550 and $750 when a new one cost over $2500.

A few years ago I bought a Pedulla Buzz for $800 when a new one cost over $3000.

I almost bought a Dingwall two years ago for $1400 when a new one cost over $3000.

Etc.
 
I have 4 basses and a guitar that all suit my needs, inspire me to play, and look good doing it.

~750 total.

It's not always about price.
Sometimes it's about value.

I agree with that. My Laklands have all 'paid for themselves' many times over...they are an outstanding value.