• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Traynor TC412 Speaker Rattle.

Boy_Narf

Boy_Narf

Dec 19, 2013
497
531
#1
Hello Everyone,

I recently picked up a TC412 to pair with my YBA100. It was about a 2 hour round trip but the price was right so I went for it. I confirmed with the owner that everyhting was good and he said yes, no issues with the drivers, nothing is blown. He did have it paired with an RB1001, which I believe is 700 watts @ 4 ohm, the cab is 1200 program, so it should have been a decent pairing unless he was really pushing it.

The top two speakers are making a buzzing noise.



*Easier to hear on a phone speaker, or something with lots of top end. In the video it's a bit buried, but in the room it's very noticeable.

I immediately thought it was the grill, as all of my old Traynor cabs required the grill to be tightened down, but even with the grill off, the buzzing is there.

I stuck my arm in the port and found everything is connected, and nothing is rubbing (wire wise). Moving the wires around while playing seems to produce various levels of this rattle so I thought at first it might be the speaker wires rattling against the back of the driver. I popped the off the back panel and none of the wires were touching the driver. I even Velcro strapped the excess length to make sure it wasn't contacting anything but buzzing remains.

If I lightly rest my hand on the speaker surround, the buzzing stops. It also only occurs with lower notes.

I checked with a few more experienced friends and they all suspect speaker damage. Wondering if anyone might have any thoughts on this.

The seller is very nice, older fellow. I think a return/refund is out of the question, but he does want me to keep him updated on the situation.

Thx.

BN~
 
#2
I would check to be sure nothing is rattling in the room, or hardware. I would also look for debris between the cone surround and the basket of the driver.

Does it change if you play the speaker upside down?
 
  • Like
Reactions: bassplace
#3
agedhorse said:
I would check to be sure nothing is rattling in the room, or hardware. I would also look for debris between the cone surround and the basket of the driver.

Does it change if you play the speaker upside down?
Click to expand...
Thank you as always for your time and wisdom.

I was not able to pop the speakers out as they are very stuck, but I can at least flip the cab over to test.

I'm certain it's coming from the speaker. If I move around the side or back of the cab while playing I can no longer hear the buzz. It seems to be coming from the mesh vent/cone.
 
#4
There are many ways a driver can be damaged, a few are repairable without recone, but most are not.

You might contact Yorkville and see if they have replacement drivers available, but repair projects like this can grow to become more expensive than the cabinet is worth. Do your homework before spending a bunch of money (knowing that all 4 drivers may have problems, you just might not know that yet).
 
#5
agedhorse said:
There are many ways a driver can be damaged, a few are repairable without recone, but most are not.

You might contact Yorkville and see if they have replacement drivers available, but repair projects like this can grow to become more expensive than the cabinet is worth. Do your homework before spending a bunch of money (knowing that all 4 drivers may have problems, you just might not know that yet).
Click to expand...
Thank you... Yes this would be my second time getting ripped on an old traynor cab, seller saying it's fine then turning out not.

I've emailed Traynor to see what they think. I have already planned to replace all 4 should there be an issue with one.

Thx again.
 
#6
I flipped the cab upside down and at lower volumes it's harder to hear, these are very directional speakers. At low volumes it's only really audible through the top speaker and a little through the second. When I turn it up a bit louder, the rattle seems to be coming from all of the speakers.

I've never played a cab that moves soo much air... I can feel the breeze from 10 feet back. With the bass up half way there is ALOT of port noise which I think is coming through the vented cones as well. There are ports at the bottom but not the top, so perhaps the sound/air is building up at the top of the cab and focusing the buzz on the top two drivers. If I drop the bass to around 2-3 the port noise calms down.

I flipped it back over to the correct orientation and the buzz is way worse even at low volumes. I tried to pop the speaker out with a cellphone screen removal tool but it's properly adhered.
 
Last edited:
#7
It’s possible that it’s inherent to this model, I would sure want to have confidence that replacing the drivers actually solves the problems. Otherwise it’s going to become a very expensive science experiment ;)
 
#8
I spent another 30 mins messing around with the cab. I pulled off the back panel and one of the side handles.

I setup my ditto with a low string on repeat and strangely enough, I can make the buzz go away if I put some pressure on the cables. If I slacken the top speaker wire off, it will start to buzz. If I put a little tension on it, the buzz will go away, with various levels of buzzing depending on the tension.

Now I am incredibly confused... I noticed that all of the drivers do this to various degrees. I added more velcro ties to the offending cables and tackled one at a time, but unless they are held in the exact place, the buzz starts again...

I took another video. After about 3 or 4 hits, you will hear the buzz come in. When the buzz comes in, I'm letting the speaker cable go, when it disappears, I'm giving it a very slight pull, not enough to pull them off the spaces, just to tighten up the slack.

Again way easier to hear on a phone or small speaker. I can barely make it out on my monitors. Hard to hear on recording but VERY apparent in the room.

 
Last edited:
#10
Snapped a pic of the worst offender.

There is 0 play in the terminal board or connectors.

PXL_20260825_220845194.webp
 
#11
That's really odd, I can't recall ever seeing a series 2 driver without the vented pole piece. While the return is vented, the top of the pole piece isn't (which is why the dust cap has the vent). The series 1 drivers were not vented, but used a Zurette screen dust cap that was the vent.

I was going to suggest that you get the drivers reconed as they are worth reconing, but you will need an experienced recone tech to sort out the parts... I'm assuming it's a DeltaLite II frame but with a different pole piece top plate and while a DeltaLite 2512 kit should fit, they won't be able to use the stock dust cap. Then you would need to do the math to see if the cabinet tuning is close enough, but you would need to do this for anything but the original stock speaker.

My best guess is that it will cost you ~$150/driver to get it reconed.

I have a set of 4 new standard vented pole piece 16 ohm DeltaLite II drivers on the shelf that I would part with that would be less expensive, message me if interested.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 60bass and 5StringBlues
#13
agedhorse said:
That's really odd, I can't recall ever seeing a series 2 driver without the vented pole piece. While the return is vented, the top of the pole piece isn't (which is why the dust cap has the vent). The series 1 drivers were not vented, but used a Zurette screen dust cap that was the vent.

I was going to suggest that you get the drivers reconed as they are worth reconing, but you will need an experienced recone tech to sort out the parts... I'm assuming it's a DeltaLite II frame but with a different pole piece top plate and while a DeltaLite 2512 kit should fit, they won't be able to use the stock dust cap. Then you would need to do the math to see if the cabinet tuning is close enough, but you would need to do this for anything but the original stock speaker.

My best guess is that it will cost you ~$150/driver to get it reconed.

I have a set of 4 new standard vented pole piece 16 ohm DeltaLite II drivers on the shelf that I would part with that would be less expensive, message me if interested.
Click to expand...



^ mensch
 
  • Like
Reactions: wave rider and Boy_Narf
#15
Boy_Narf said:
Reassembling and noticed only 900 watt program power handling.

Definately overpowered with the 1001...

Live and learn I guess.
Click to expand...
That's a lot of driver de-rating for mechanical reasons, more than I would expect BUT I don't know the details of the driver either.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back