• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The Official Reeves Bass Amp Thread

My 225 is still crankin'! My Eight10 Barefaced cab came yesterday. Been having fun today.
I've read way back in this thread this amp is mid scooped. I couldn't hear that with the P-Bass. Today I pulled my old Stingray out of the closet and it definitely has a more scooped sound than the mid heavy P-bass.
Either way, the amp through this new cab and my older Six10 cab, sound fantastic. Everything you guys said it would be. Totally satisfied!!

IMG_0719.jpeg
 
My 225 is still crankin'! My Eight10 Barefaced cab came yesterday. Been having fun today.
I've read way back in this thread this amp is mid scooped. I couldn't hear that with the P-Bass. Today I pulled my old Stingray out of the closet and it definitely has a more scooped sound than the mid heavy P-bass.
Either way, the amp through this new cab and my older Six10 cab, sound fantastic. Everything you guys said it would be. Totally satisfied!!

View attachment 5444134

Sheesh that is nice. There are rigs, and then there are rigs.
 
I haven't played the 225, but I own a 400. Some who have played both report the 400 is a bit easier to dial in. Other than that, headroom and weight are noticeably different...as well as cost.
Yes....there's that! I don't have any problem "dialing it in"....Sounds fantastic. But since I got the bigger Eight10 cab, when I really crank it, it starts to break up a bit. Might be the speakers though.
 
Yes....there's that! I don't have any problem "dialing it in"....Sounds fantastic. But since I got the bigger Eight10 cab, when I really crank it, it starts to break up a bit. Might be the speakers though.

The BF Eight 10 is rated 2000W RMS. It should easily handle the Reeves 225.

Most likely you are pushing the output section to the edge or a bit over the edge. The Eight 10 has a high sensitivity rating (104dB 1W/1m), so it should be pretty darn loud. Way louder than I would typically need...but YMMV.
 
The BF Eight 10 is rated 2000W RMS. It should easily handle the Reeves 225.

Most likely you are pushing the output section to the edge or a bit over the edge. The Eight 10 has a high sensitivity rating (104dB 1W/1m), so it should be pretty darn loud. Way louder than I would typically need...but YMMV.

Correct. That’s why I might need the Custom 400! :D
 
I finally built myself a cable to drive both inputs on the C225 and have been loving it. :) The C225 did have a mis-adventure last Sunday. My brother in-law had to move my rig to run some cable the week before last. When he set it back up, he didn't turn the speakon connecting the first cab to the amp far enough to click and connect. When I fired up and got no sound, I quickly went to standby. I discovered the unconnected speakon, and remedied it. Then, I attempted to check the connections on the cable connecting the two cabs and I managed to create a short circuit. I didn't know this at the time, but after getting low and distorted output when firing up, I shut it down for later testing. To make a long story short, I played through my Mesa WD-800 (it finally got to serve it's backup function) today which comes pretty close to emulating the Reeves, but it's not a Reeves. The speakon to speakon cable is remade with smaller diameter cable, is tested and ready to go. The Reeves did not suffer a bit from its temporary extremely high and zero impedance attempts to operate. I have it sitting in my living room connected to a Mesa Subway 115. I don't recall if I've previously shared my opinion, but this is one of the most beautiful sounding bass amplifiers on the planet. :cool:
 
"but this is one of the most beautiful sounding bass amplifiers on the planet" couldn't have said it better myself !
I have a Hartke LH1000 for backup & it comes close but is not a Reeves.
As for damn Speakons, I had a wire come loose in one & it took out a resistor & tube, so I redid all of my Speakons & suggest that everyone should check the tightness of the screws, which hold the speaker wires, on a frequent basis.
REEVES ROCKS
 
  • Like
Reactions: spiritbass
"but this is one of the most beautiful sounding bass amplifiers on the planet" couldn't have said it better myself !
I have a Hartke LH1000 for backup & it comes close but is not a Reeves.
As for damn Speakons, I had a wire come loose in one & it took out a resistor & tube, so I redid all of my Speakons & suggest that everyone should check the tightness of the screws, which hold the speaker wires, on a frequent basis.
REEVES ROCKS

Amen on all points, brother. REEVES - there is no substitute. :bassist: :bassist::bassist: I think that if The Ox were still here, he would agree. :cool:
 
  • Like
Reactions: BassikBrad
Anyone rocking just the Reeves 410 with the C225 in a loud, heavy band?

I kinda want to get a 410 to go with my C225 just for the looks but that is a terrible reason to buy a cab. Lol

My guitarist plays a gen 1 Model T through a 412 emperor and lots of effects. I use a far amount of drive and modulation when needed..

My gut says the 410 won't keep up.
I wish it was a 610 or even a 412. 😄
 
  • Like
Reactions: ZachM
My gut says the 410 won't keep up.
If the Model T is cranked, IMHO you are most likely right. Guitar speakers are often more efficient than bass speakers; so they get louder with less power. Also, our ears are more sensitive to the frequency range of guitar than bass. So even if the guitar and bass are the same volume, guitar will sound louder.

AFAIK the model T was considered 150W. The Reeves is 225W clean. The decibel difference between 150 and 225 is about 1.8dB.

IMHO you probably want a pair of the 410s minimum, and that may just get you in the ballpark if your guitar player really cranks the amp.

The Reeves makes the same power as long as it sees the expected load. The amp is rated 225W at 2, 4, or 8 ohms. Of course it will make more if you push the output section into OD territory, but IMHO Hiwatt style amps seem set up more more max clean power than great output drive.

Adding a matching cab gives you 2-3dB more headroom. If you double the cabs again to 4 x 410 you get another ~2dB.

Likewise every time you double usable power, you get +3dB.

I would do a calculated SPL estimate for you, except I don't think Reeves publish a sensitivity rating for their cabs.

Decibel change for 1W to 150W = ~21.8dB
Decibel change for 1W to 225W = ~23.5dB

You can add the dB change figures to 1W sensitivity ratings for a given cab to get a ballpark estimate for how loud an amp/cab combination will play. AFAIK a 412 loaded with Vintage 30s will have sensitivity of about 106dB 1W/1m, so with 150W you get [21.8 + 106 = 127.8dB on axis].
 
  • Like
Reactions: badsneakers
If the Model T is cranked, IMHO you are most likely right. Guitar speakers are often more efficient than bass speakers; so they get louder with less power. Also, our ears are more sensitive to the frequency range of guitar than bass. So even if the guitar and bass are the same volume, guitar will sound louder.

AFAIK the model T was considered 150W. The Reeves is 225W clean. The decibel difference between 150 and 225 is about 1.8dB.

IMHO you probably want a pair of the 410s minimum, and that may just get you in the ballpark if your guitar player really cranks the amp.

The Reeves makes the same power as long as it sees the expected load. The amp is rated 225W at 2, 4, or 8 ohms. Of course it will make more if you push the output section into OD territory, but IMHO Hiwatt style amps seem set up more more max clean power than great output drive.

Adding a matching cab gives you 2-3dB more headroom. If you double the cabs again to 4 x 410 you get another ~2dB.

Likewise every time you double usable power, you get +3dB.

I would do a calculated SPL estimate for you, except I don't think Reeves publish a sensitivity rating for their cabs.

Decibel change for 1W to 150W = ~21.8dB
Decibel change for 1W to 225W = ~23.5dB

You can add the dB change figures to 1W sensitivity ratings for a given cab to get a ballpark estimate for how loud an amp/cab combination will play. AFAIK a 412 loaded with Vintage 30s will have sensitivity of about 106dB 1W/1m, so with 150W you get [21.8 + 106 = 127.8dB on axis].

He's not cranked and been "turning down"

I can a pair of orange 115s sound great. My NV215 at that volume is less great. Less sensitive cab..it sounds good but I'd like to maintain more clean volume than I get with the NV215.

I have one Berg Reference II 115..a second one of those might be what's in order.

I also own a couple 3015 drivers so a new lightweight tl606 style 215 box with some salt and pepper grill corn and white piping might be what the Dr ordered for sound and looks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wasnex

Latest posts