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The Redeemer Poplar Twins....

scottyd

scottyd

Commercial User
Nov 17, 2006
2,887
657
Waco Tx
Disclosures
Builder/owner Redeemer Basses
#1
Here's two builds that I'm pretty stoked about. The Poplar twins.
Both will use the same woods for construction.
4 string
Spalted & Mineral Stained poplar tops
African Mahogany body cores.
5 piece birds eye maple, purple heart & wenge necks
birds eye maple fingerboards with wenge accent under
Hipshot Hardware (one chrome one black)
Aguilar pickups (one single coils one dual)

Bass One will be a single cut using my latest shape the SC-V, (sorry I don't have a rendering for it yet)

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Bass two will be my SC-2 single cut:

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Top wood :)

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Both will be initially wired passive and later get pre-amps dependent on what a buyer may want. Its going to be very interesting to see the tone variances between these two basses.
 
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#2
I started surface planning my core wood tonight and was surprised with some nice quilting in this African Mahogany most def a bonus being it was purchased rough sawn and I'll take it!!
 

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#6
I'm finally back into these builds. I just finished sawing enough birdeye maple for a few single piece necks and some extra for laminates.
 

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#7
Here's the neck blank for the first bass. 5 laminate birdeye maple, purple heart and wenge.
P_20150729_180216.jpg


The obligatory clamp pic.
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I love my clamps.. this little guy felt left out, so I let him run the ball.
P_20150729_182736.jpg
 
#11
Rôckhewer said:
Looks good!
That's some pretty dark purple heart, had to look close to see it next to the wenge....
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's been thicknessed and sitting on the shelf for a few years. Fresh cut and planned it shows its contrast like in this pic.

P_20150729_210323.jpg

Beside it is some cocobolo fresh cut that I plan on using as a neck for a future build.
 
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#12
Scarfing neck blanks

Jig
P_20150804_173920.jpg

I've always believed that the more clamps you can get on a scarf the better off you are. I also prefer to leave them clamped up for several days. It's a small joint but in my opinion it's the most important one.
P_20150804_175854.jpg
 
#13
#16
Rôckhewer said:
I thought maybe with your prolonged clamp time you might be using TB lll since it recommends 24 hr. to fully cure.
But looking at the specs. it is really only a marginally stronger bond... I'm sure original is fine.
Click to expand...

For me it's not a matter of the glue fully curing but giving the wood time to release the moisture added to it from the glue. especially in the neck areas. I do the same with a fingerboard. Really it's piece of mind.

I've never used 3, from what I have read it has a tendency to creep and its a higher solids formula and can show lines.
 
#17
Rôckhewer said:
I thought maybe with your prolonged clamp time you might be using TB lll since it recommends 24 hr. to fully cure.
But looking at the specs. it is really only a marginally stronger bond... I'm sure original is fine.
Click to expand...

Titebond III is an outdoor glue so it has to be more flexible which gives it a tendency to creep. Original is better for instrument builds.
 
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#18
Hopkins said:
Titebond III is an outdoor glue so it has to be more flexible which gives it a tendency to creep. Original is better for instrument builds.
Click to expand...
Makes sense... I have a bunch of 3 here at my shop because it was specified into a contract for a job I'm doing (this item isn't meant for outdoor) but it involves gluing mdf to hardwood... I knew about the solids but didn't know it had a tendency to be creepy. I was curious as to the strength so I looked up the specs. 3 has a slightly better shear strength, or modulus of rupture or some such....
I haven't used it on an instrument just because I have noticed the color is dark when it dried and took too long to set up.
I'm glad I never did .
 
#19
Rôckhewer said:
Makes sense... I have a bunch of 3 here at my shop because it was specified into a contract for a job I'm doing (this item isn't meant for outdoor) but it involves gluing mdf to hardwood... I knew about the solids but didn't know it had a tendency to be creepy. I was curious as to the strength so I looked up the specs. 3 has a slightly better shear strength, or modulus of rupture or some such....
I haven't used it on an instrument just because I have noticed the color is dark when it dried and took too long to set up.
I'm glad I never did .
Click to expand...

lol Creepy ol Titebond 3
387_dont-be-that-guy-in-20-years-flash.jpg
 
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