Just out of curiosity, what is the benefits of this arrangement over the standard? I was trying to make that part at least very close to the original P-bass design.
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The SCP - Single Cut P-Bass
- Thread starter Videojunkie
- Start date
Just out of curiosity, what is the benefits of this arrangement over the standard? I was trying to make that part at least very close to the original P-bass design.
Better tonal balance - the D and G strings are naturally a little more trebly than the E and A strings, putting their half of the pickup closer to the neck balances those inherent qualities out a bit.
I've never tried a reverse-P arrangement, but I guess the theory is that you'd end up with a bit more clarity and tightness on the lower strings and a bit more body on the higher strings, resulting in a more evenly balanced tone across the board.
The start of the lumber pile for this bass.
Patagonian rosewood for the fretboard (the second piece might wind up in the neck...)
And the walnut for the face.
Patagonian rosewood for the fretboard (the second piece might wind up in the neck...)
And the walnut for the face.
I dig it. I love the top controls.
With that shape my eyes want some f-holes with chambers.
Although I imagine it would be pretty dang neck heavy that way.
sliders get dirty easily, and top mounted like that, they would have little visual benefit. I know practicality is probably not on the top of your list, but quickly dialing the volume control in a second between playing notes would be hard to right get with sliders.
Feel free to disregard my flippant response... super cool, following.
With that shape my eyes want some f-holes with chambers.
Although I imagine it would be pretty dang neck heavy that way.
sliders get dirty easily, and top mounted like that, they would have little visual benefit. I know practicality is probably not on the top of your list, but quickly dialing the volume control in a second between playing notes would be hard to right get with sliders.
Feel free to disregard my flippant response... super cool, following.
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The sliders I'm looking at have a dust cover over them, so I'm hoping to minimize the dust collection possibilities.
My Spector is VVTB controls, so muting with volume control isn't a technique that I ever use. I have a dedicated volume pedal for my bass rig, so if I need to roll the volume like that, I use that like a wah. Most of the time I just palm mute if I'm playing with a pick, or use left hand off fingers to mute.
The visual impact of the controls is to have controls while not looking like there are controls.
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I appreciate the critique about the lower cutout. I think I am pretty set on the aesthetics over potential comfort. 90+% of the time (even when playing seated), I use a strap as I like my bass fairly high on my body. Definitely not a low-slung metal player.
My bigger concern is that the lower horn is a potential weak spot, and could break off. So I am considering running the maple center piece in a diagonal to the top grain. This would give me some plywood like strength for that weak point.
As far a traditional P vs reverse P, we'll see. If someone can point me to some convincing resources that the difference is worth it (rather than vagaries of setup/strings/etc.) I would consider it. Also if there is a particular pickup besides the quarter pounder that's in the same budget, I'm open to suggestions.
I plan on using flats on this bass (probably the TI jazz set, although I've been impressed with the GHS flats on the EUB).
My bigger concern is that the lower horn is a potential weak spot, and could break off. So I am considering running the maple center piece in a diagonal to the top grain. This would give me some plywood like strength for that weak point.
As far a traditional P vs reverse P, we'll see. If someone can point me to some convincing resources that the difference is worth it (rather than vagaries of setup/strings/etc.) I would consider it. Also if there is a particular pickup besides the quarter pounder that's in the same budget, I'm open to suggestions.
I plan on using flats on this bass (probably the TI jazz set, although I've been impressed with the GHS flats on the EUB).
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I really thought hard about doing this, but with the carved top, I didn't also want to stress about chambering the body....
Not a fan of single cut basses in general, but I love the look of that design. I too prefer instruments that are a bit different. Can't wait to see how it comes together.
I like it a lot except for the bridge. It needs a two piece a la Warwick. I also think the P should be reversed but it would look a lot better with a humbucker. Ps for 5 string basses make no sense to me. You get that sound with the placement of the pickup. You don't really need that shape.
I've always been very curious about the Nordstrand BigRig pickups. Supposedly a humbucker made from two 51P-style coils, so it would still fit the theme.
Also, you say Warwick, my brain goes "Jack Bruce!" and then I remember him playing this Gibson EB-1 which has a kinda similar vibe.
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The bridge I already own, so....
With the Rickman and the Spector I already have 2 humbucker basses. The goal is something that I don't have.
One thing I would consider is flipping the pickup so that the 3 poles are on the top, so the BEA have the same original position and the DG have the same position as the original design.
I was going to say it looks like you chose that bridge because you already have one lying around.The bridge I already own, so....
With the Rickman and the Spector I already have 2 humbucker basses. The goal is something that I don't have.
It was a bridge I originally bought for the Rick-man before I discovered that the pickups were 16.5mm spacing and not 19mm...
Have you considered painting the f-holes? Gibson did this on at least some of the early EBs.
Materials update,
I can't find the 60mm sliders that I wanted anywhere, but I can find the 45mm version at Mouser, and they're only like $2 each. So that's going to be a minor change.
For those who understand such things, should I go with 500k or 250k resistance values? And what type of 0.47uF capacitor do I need to order? (I'm hoping to only make 1 Mouser order...)
I can't find the 60mm sliders that I wanted anywhere, but I can find the 45mm version at Mouser, and they're only like $2 each. So that's going to be a minor change.
For those who understand such things, should I go with 500k or 250k resistance values? And what type of 0.47uF capacitor do I need to order? (I'm hoping to only make 1 Mouser order...)
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We'll see. Depending on how the inlay and bindings on the Rick-man go, I might get ambitious...
