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The Soundgear Club
- Thread starter THE DANiMAL
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do bottom of the line models count? i currently have 2 GSR100EX basses, one modded so it has fender mustang pickups, and i have 2 mikros, 1 modded to have 2 fender jazz bass pickups.
No idea of the model, but if you sand down the horn damage a natural finish would still look good there. These EMG Pickups are killer btw.
Most likely an SRX690 or SRX700 as it's neckthrough. At first the pickups made me think it's an SRT model but those never had 4 in line knobs, and the back of the body is concave on them, like on Spectors or Warwick Thumb.
Thanks for the comments. I won't stand down the horn unless I have to. I can rebuild that horn with a small price of ash? and then refinish. If I canatch the wood close enough I could finish it in a light stain which would look nice.
We shall see.
We shall see.
Susan could camouflage or at least reduce the appearance with the arsenal in her art studio.
Riis
Riis
The old fashioned solution would be a sunburst finish. That way the wood grain is visible for most of the body but the paint is opaque along the edge.
If I am really fortunate and careful, I may still be able to pull off a finish like the actual SRX700.
I think it will depend on what the wood looks like under all that paint. I hope they are ash wings.
I think it will depend on what the wood looks like under all that paint. I hope they are ash wings.
Sorry to hear it got beat up. Cool Bass anyway though!
Was the broken piece not in the packaging? If you had it I would thing slow and minimal use of a wood adhesive could put the piece back on and look ok refinished in natural..?
So I have various pieces but it came apart in pieces not as one broken piece... I could attempt to reconstruct it but I couldn't make it look original.
The bass must have hit something hard and sharp because the damage went clear through the box, through the bubble wrap, ripped the bass gig bag and destroyed the corner. Quite an impact.
I think I would better notching out the damage and cutting,shaping and inserting a small piece of ash and sanding it to match. I'll know better once I have that section all sanded back to original wood.
I keep everyone posted.
The bass must have hit something hard and sharp because the damage went clear through the box, through the bubble wrap, ripped the bass gig bag and destroyed the corner. Quite an impact.
I think I would better notching out the damage and cutting,shaping and inserting a small piece of ash and sanding it to match. I'll know better once I have that section all sanded back to original wood.
I keep everyone posted.
I am just very curious as to the model number ? I have looked at all the Ibanez catalogs and can't find a painted, neck-thru, SRX model. Only the SRX700 and both finishes were either natural or stained.
Oh wow, these 2 have me intrigued now. I wish there was a fretted version of this one too.
Decisions, decisions....
I snagged a used Audere Pro Z preamp (...overkill) and wondering which should receive the transplant:
*755 w/ MK1 pickups & preamp
*1405 w/ Nordstrand HB's and stock preamp
I'm leaning towards the 1405 as the new control layout will be identical. Also keeping my radar spinning for a used 5 knob Classic module.
I snagged a used Audere Pro Z preamp (...overkill) and wondering which should receive the transplant:
*755 w/ MK1 pickups & preamp
*1405 w/ Nordstrand HB's and stock preamp
I'm leaning towards the 1405 as the new control layout will be identical. Also keeping my radar spinning for a used 5 knob Classic module.
I have a similar conundrum. I've been debating getting a new preamp for one of my basses for a LONG while. It's between a Bart NTMB (which I have in another bass and love) and an Audere. I can get pretty much identical features from either brand, so it comes down to price and whether or not I'll like it, which I can only figure out by putting it in the bass...
Decisions, decisions. Why did you get an Audere? Can you compare to a Bart NTMB, by chance? I'll be putting whatever I get into an SRX505 (probably) string as well, though mine will likely end up being tuned down a whole step.
On a related note, I have also been debating getting an SR305 or SR405 that is listed locally. Both are used, and have identical features. As far as I can tell, the only difference is finish. And I actually prefer the finish on the cheaper model! Is there anything I'm missing?
I can't comment on the budget-tier models and the only difference may be the finish...the neck and electronics are probably identical. I'm of the impression they have big bins of necks, pickups, and pres which are used for a particular model range and go from there. You're at an advantage as you can trial both and decide which has that "wow" factor.
The Pro Z was in the classifieds and priced the same as a new Classic module (fewer features but excellent, overall). It has more stuff that I'll ever use but curiosity drove me over the edge. The "Z" voicings include some type of LPF resonance filter or so it appears via the graphs (...variable mid-peak with a relatively sharp drop-off). I've owned and installed several and the Classics were compatible with the active pickups in my Fernandes. The 4 band in my Bordwell was remarkable. Nothing wrong with Barts but I never got terribly excited over anything other than the variable gain. The Audere is a stereo mixer with separate channels so no loading conflicts associated with conventional blend pots and such. In real terms, the bridge pickup should grow some balls / have some "ooomph" to it without sounding like an anemic afterthought. They typical Soundgear has a 5 knob lay-out including a mid-freq switch...Audere has an exact drop-in for $129 which requires only basic soldering skills.
Riis
They're the same as far as I can tell, but with the 4xx series having a fancy veneer top.
