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Thinking of building a Warmoth bass? Ask here.
- Thread starter Doug Parent
- Start date
Anyone else try a Warmoth P build with the 2-Tek option? I just finished my second and have come to the conclusion that the 2-Tek rout should be positioned about 0.25" further back towards the edge of the body. I thought maybe the first build (gold-top gold) might have had something to do with the Status neck not completely jiving with the Warmoth body but the second build (amber flame) was strictly Warmoth/Warmoth. You can see by the pics below that my intonation has bottomed out on the E & A strings on both builds. I actually had to remove the springs on three of the saddles
I gave Warmoth a heads-up and all I got was "I have a 2-Tek/P-Bass build and mine is fine." Oooooooo-k.
Any thoughts on this? For the record, I'm using EB Slinkies (45 -105) on both builds. Could strings be a factor?
If intonation is still an issue Id move it in a heartbeat.
The E strings are dialed in...but barely. I still get a little redness to the sharp side on my Korg Pitchblack. The other three strings are in.
Oh sorry did not notice the rout, I was using my Android phone to view the thread. When I do Warmoth projects I do two things:
Always use Hipshot A style bridges (lateral adjustment)
1/2 the time I dowl and redrill the holes elsewhere.
Always use Hipshot A style bridges (lateral adjustment)
1/2 the time I dowl and redrill the holes elsewhere.
So your saying that Warmoth predrills for a bridge they sell and when you install it the string intonation is off because the requirements exceed the bridges capacity to move where it needs to?
Yep. Like I said, the E string is dialed in, but not as perfectly dialed in as I would like it to be. It is a very fine hair sharp. Some folks can live with that, and I'm certainly living with the work-around. I just wish it was a 1/4" further back so I didn't have to 86 the springs and bottom the saddles out to get it in the ballpark.
You'd think, however, that after two Warmoth 2-Tek builds exhibiting the exact same dilemma, Warmouth would have given more credence to my observation. [shrugs] Hence, my query on if different strings intonnate differently (ie - do different makes of strings require different adjustments to the saddle position on the same guitar)
Oh belee me, that amber burst flame P was my 11th Warmoth build and I just purchased a solid padouk reverse Tele neck this afternoon. I'd say I'm a fan. But the pics above don't lie. There's something off on their 2-Tek/P specs.
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,350
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
That's cool. USACG has come a long way.
Way back in 2000 or so, I worked with Tommy at USACG on a Super-Tele (guitar) project. Conceptually, it was a relic Tele that had the outward spec of a early 60's telecaster, but 'underneath' it had the best features of a 50's Broadcaster or '52 Tele...superlight resonant swamp ash body, hot overwound bridge pickup, etc.
Tommy knocked himself out for me get it done right. I took dozens of real tele neck measurements from mid 50's through early 60's telecasters, he added some measurements from some real 58/59 Les Pauls he had access to and we came up with the most comfortable neck contour. He also found me a beautiful piece of Brazilian rosewood for the fretboard.
Anyone who's gotten clay dots from USACG can thank me. (yes, they sound better). They didn't offer it as an option and I goaded them into using some of the first sets that Callaham had. Tommy finally agreed to do them but I had to send 3 sets...because they didn't know how hard they'd be to inlay or use. Now its an option.
The whole project was 'finished' (neck and body) by Mark Jenny aka MJTele http://mjtagedfinishes.com/ back when it was just a hobby and he'd work on vintage finish restorations after work in the evening.
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there is more to it than just the pics though . I'm no Luthier but I think you can measure the distance from nut to saddle to give us some idea .
After they pay for the C&C machine programming on any given task, it's a done deal as far as they are concerned. This is one reason I decided to allow Warmoth projects to be somewhat experimental, things like this are bound to happen. I've had three maple necks more or less identical, but had the same neck order only in wenge and the overall height of that neck is higher than the maples were. Go figure.
I don't think the measurement is as important as hitting a perfect open E and a perfect E at the 12th fret. Sure, you need to be in the ballpark with bridge position, but if each string was perfectly intonnated at exactly 34", we wouldn't have the need for adjustable saddles and each string would be straight across at the bridge and not staggered. I'm pretty sure string gauge has everything to do with the inherent staggering of string length from top to bottom. So maybe I should try a lighter gauge E & A. Like I said, I'm a Warmoth fanboy. Not trying to bash them but just wanted to give folks a heads-up when looking into a 2-Tek build.
At any rate, I just measured all my basses and the E string measures approximately 34.25" +/- 0.125" from nut to saddle (including the two 2-Tek builds). The only difference is the other bridges (Hipshot, Babicz) have plenty of adjustment room in either direction where the 2-Teks are both bottomed out.
This may be a noob question, but I have to ask for my own knowledge. Why do they not offer the Hipshot A-style bridge for their short scale basses (32" single cut to be exact)? My only in house options are the Gotoh 201/Badass III/Schaller 463.
Did you call and ask them? I'd push on this to make sure Hipshot isn't programmed into the machine. Otherwise ask if they will drill a center hole reference point for you.
So what's the difference between the output jack dimensions? If you get it on the side, how do you know what size to get? I've looked around the website, but must be missing the info somewhere.
