Double Bass Thomann entry line instruments: Laminated, hybrid and solid

[Zoppello]

Hi everyone,

First of all, I know Thomann's entry line instruments have been thoroughly discussed in this forum and I have read most of those discussions, but I would still like to hear some thoughts on the following matter.

When it comes to the most inexpensive Thomann basses, the price difference between laminated, hybrid and solid European made (all Hora, I believe) models is very small. As you can see below, the price difference between laminated and solid is of €170, with hybrid sitting between both.

Thomann 11 (Laminated)

Thomann 22 (Hybrid)

Thomann 33 (Solid)

It's a little over 10% price increase, which I consider small given that the price jump between the cheapest (and only) chinese laminated model to the cheapest european laminated model is roughly double.

I am currently looking to buy my first double bass - availability to see and play basses where I am is low and the one reputable luthier only has mid to high end instruments, which made me decide to buy a bass blind and work with what I get.

With that in mind - is the small price jump between laminated and solid worth paying? Considering they are the "same tier" of their respective materials, is there a chance the laminated is better built or has less corners being cut than the solid one? At this price range, will I even see a difference between a cheap laminated and a cheap solid? Is it a €170-worth difference?

Note: I will mostly keep it safely at home for studying in a city with no huge weather swings, so I'm trying to keep durability out of the equation but if you believe a first bass should always be a laminated beater bass please share your thoughts.

Thanks!

 

[Martin Beer]

I haven't played these particular basses, but looking at the product line, I'd be tempted to take the extra step up to the round back carved model if I was going all-solid. Solid wood flat backed basses can tend to be a little higher maintenance as the flat back with cross braces doesn't cope with climate induced movement very well.
And the single biggest difference in tone you'll notice is likely to be between the solid and laminated tops, so the hybrid model might be a good balance of price, sound and reliability.

 

[dperrott]

It's always best to play a bass before you buy it. Regardless of which one, anytime you buy a bass at a lower price point you will likely need to have some setup work on it or replace some things. Factory in that cost. Cheaper basses tend to have terrible endpins and cheap tailpiece wires. If it comes from the factory you will probably need the post adjusted, bridge adjusted, nut adjusted and maybe the finger board dressed. You will want new strings since they will come with the cheapest strings they can possibly find. A flat back isn't necessarily a problem but a poorly made one is a problem just as a poorly made round back is a problem. My recommendation is what ever bass you get take it to the luthier to see what needs adjusted. Maybe ask him about these basses since he may have worked on them before.

 

[Paps]

I'd be very reluctant to buy a bass that cheap, unseen and untried.
It sounds as if you may not have access to a suitable luthier to do any additional set-up adjustments.
I would also consider second hand basses which have been played and set-up properly.
If you know of a bass teacher or an orchestra in your area, you may get advice on available basses.

 

[Zoppello]

I haven't played these particular basses, but looking at the product line, I'd be tempted to take the extra step up to the round back carved model if I was going all-solid. Solid wood flat backed basses can tend to be a little higher maintenance as the flat back with cross braces doesn't cope with climate induced movement very well.
And the single biggest difference in tone you'll notice is likely to be between the solid and laminated tops, so the hybrid model might be a good balance of price, sound and reliability.

Thanks Martin, I appreciate the input. I think while it seems to me like the upgrades are great value per euro, they are not linear upgrades depending on what I need. I can see how the laminated durability can be a valuable attribute for a beginner and maybe the top upgrade is enough of an upgrade for my needs.

It's always best to play a bass before you buy it. Regardless of which one, anytime you buy a bass at a lower price point you will likely need to have some setup work on it or replace some things. Factory in that cost. Cheaper basses tend to have terrible endpins and cheap tailpiece wires. If it comes from the factory you will probably need the post adjusted, bridge adjusted, nut adjusted and maybe the finger board dressed. You will want new strings since they will come with the cheapest strings they can possibly find. A flat back isn't necessarily a problem but a poorly made one is a problem just as a poorly made round back is a problem. My recommendation is what ever bass you get take it to the luthier to see what needs adjusted. Maybe ask him about these basses since he may have worked on them before.

I'd be very reluctant to buy a bass that cheap, unseen and untried.
It sounds as if you may not have access to a suitable luthier to do any additional set-up adjustments.
I would also consider second hand basses which have been played and set-up properly.
If you know of a bass teacher or an orchestra in your area, you may get advice on available basses.

Thanks dperrot and Paps - unfortunately my ability to play basses before buying them is very limited. The market is very small where I live which both means I could only play basses I could not afford and the second hand market is close to non existent. I will however contact the luthier in my area again to hear her thoughts on the models I am contemplating. If I have to factor in adjustments and part replacements it will still be cheaper than what's available to me in my area, so I have to work with what I can afford.