I love my '78 Precision shown in my avatar to the left. All stock. Stable as the rock of Gibralter (and almost as heavy). Sounds and responds to my touch Grrreeat!
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Thoughts about getting a Fender 1979 P-Bass
- Thread starter Rhynobass
- Start date
My very late 78 in my avatar weighs 10.4 lbs, and has THE PERFECT 1 5/8" neck. The original pickups crapped out on me, so I put in 10% overwound Lindy Fralins. They sound great with La Bella flats, but it seems a crime to inhibit what stainless steels sound like through this beast. I wear it high and tight to offset the weight on my strap, but it's definitely an off the market piece for me.
I've always played a bunch of Fender basses and then bought the one I like best. I'd never buy one without playing it first. They can vary way too much.
As an example, I once tried a '63 that looked awesome but had the craziest ski jump neck. It was a useless.
However, I've also played some lovely, lightweight late '70s Fenders.
Try before you buy.
As an example, I once tried a '63 that looked awesome but had the craziest ski jump neck. It was a useless.
However, I've also played some lovely, lightweight late '70s Fenders.
Try before you buy.
Being in the position to buy a bass is always a nice thing.
Really it comes down to how much you want an 'old' bass. If it has some form of sentimental attachment (birth-year bass, etc.), or something of that sort it might be worth it for you. But those things have nothing to do with the bass itself. 70's Fenders (especially the late 70s) and Gibsons suffered from such poor quality that the Japanese manufactures enjoyed increased demand for their instruments (often much better instruments than the US stuff).
Having owned vintage instruments in the past, I can say that they were fun to have. However, living with 'vintage' gear is another thing entirely (meaning actually using the gear); all sorts of minor problems become more annoying. Newer instruments tend to have worked out the problems of the older stuff-- and many have improved the instruments in such a way that they are more enjoyable to actually use.
If it's a dealer you're working with, perhaps a deal can be worked out where you have the option to return the bass after a week or so if you decide it's not for you. That way you can see for yourself and be a peace with the decision to buy it or not.
You mentioned the Fender Pro II; as far as Fenders go, that is my favorite version of the P-bass-- hands down. Everything about my Pro II is what I would want in a P-bass. It's light weight, well balanced, sounds wonderful, and is a joy to use. The sculpted neck/heal makes it much nicer to pickup, carry, etc. That seems like a minor thing, but it makes a world of difference to me (I have minor nerve damage in my hands). The fit and finish of the bass is top notch. Its bridge, is a joy to adjust when needed, and it's a comfortable place to rest your hand when playing (all the sharp edges are rounded off). It's almost as though an actual bass player had a hand in updating the thing LOL!
If what attracts you most about the '79 P is its 'relic' finish, you might be better served going with a Nash, or something of the sort. LaBella has a line of basses worth considering if you've got the dough
Best of luck with whichever you decide!
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godofthunder59
Life is short, buy the bass.
- Feb 19, 2006
- 9,060
- 38,448
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- Endorsing Cataldo Basses, Whirlwind products, Thunderbucker pickups
I'd want pictures with a metric ruler of the action at the 5th, 12th, 15th and 17th fret. Ask about fret buzz. Is the truss rod maxed out? Are the frets original?
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Both of which will intonate precisely more by chance than by intent.
78/79 P owner here. Perfect intonation plus I never have to tune it.
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As an owner of a '79 purchased new, what ^^ he ^^ said. Play it first or get a good return policy.
In the early 80's, I worked at a shop that sold a lot of Fender instruments. One of my jobs was to do basic setups on everything before it got hung on the wall. The mid-'70's to mid to late 80's examples really were all over the place QC-wise. Many ended up with aftermarket pickups, bridges, and tuners for a reason, others were fantastic.
It's worth mentioning that many of largest US-made brands (Ric, Gibson...) were at the same level back then. It took Yamaha, Ibanez, and other imports to kick them in the butt to get them back on track.
Also, in the old woodworking hand tool world there's a thought process with many who buy to use vs. collect, that old items in extremely good condition are not always the best examples. Some weren't good for their intended purpose, so they didn't see much use. Possibly even used once, put back in the box, and never used again. This thought can definitely apply to vintage instruments, as we have no idea if an example is in great shape due to an uninterested owner or if it was a lemon.
I have a 73 jazz that I lucked out with. Great weight, action etc. They are not all winners. Especially for the price. Do yourself a favor and get a Nash PB-63. They feel like a worn old catchers mitt or something, and sound so good. Just my opinion.
If you like relics, I'd go used Fender Custom Shop, or Nash. Too many variables with a 70's Fender to buy without playing. Pretty much guaranteed the CS or the Nash will be great.
I looked at "vintage" but decided that a new MIM or US came with a warranty and return policy. I went with a player P, saved some $ and haven't looked back. Vintage to me means nothing without the ability to play it first.
The thing that I've noticed with a lot of 70's Fenders is that the neck pockets are usually sloppy and you see a lot of them with the G string almost hanging off the side of the neck, you can just loosen the neck, move it, and screw it tight though and it usually won't move.
I don't know how much you're paying for it but the new Fenders are very nice and sound great.
I don't know how much you're paying for it but the new Fenders are very nice and sound great.
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- As in your original post - Can it be set up with low action without fret buzz?
- Is the neck true and is the rod adjustment working? Is the rod nut bottomed or otherwise not functioning as designed? Does it need fret work?
- Is it original or at least period correct parts? A 1979 should have the serial number on the headstock and a small serial number sticker attached to the underside of the pick guard. Original pickup is important.
- HOW MUCH DOES IT WEIGH? - Sorry but this is important even if you don't really care. It is important because you may want to sell it someday and selling an 11 lb P-Bass is a challenge. They made boat anchor basses in the 70's. It is a huge bargaining chip for you if the weight is over 10 lbs.
- Does it have the original HS Case? Again this is a collector thing. Bargaining chip if it is missing.
I don't care for 70's Fenders but maybe someday I will find one I like. I probably still won't buy it because it will be overpriced for what it is. I firmly believe fresh modern production basses are better than old beat to hell 'vintage' instruments. That is just my opinion. Good luck with your endeavor.
devnulljp
Supporting Member
Also, a 79, could be anywhere from 79 to 82ish if you're going by the serial number.
All things considered if you can't play before you buy I would go with the newer Fender. They are a better built instrument. You won't regret it at all.
D
You really need to try before you buy. In my experience even a new Squier would be better than the average Fender from that era.
Even if it's in excellent condition I would never pay the prices 70s Fender go for these days. They're really nothing special. Mass manufactured instrument from what is considered Fender's worst era. You will most likely get a FAR better instrument if you buy a new bass instead. Even new Fenders can vary a lot though. With Fender you really need to try before you buy.
Even if it's in excellent condition I would never pay the prices 70s Fender go for these days. They're really nothing special. Mass manufactured instrument from what is considered Fender's worst era. You will most likely get a FAR better instrument if you buy a new bass instead. Even new Fenders can vary a lot though. With Fender you really need to try before you buy.
I started playing in '76, and all the experienced guys told this newb, 'ya gotta have a Fender' and every one I tried was too heavy, had a fat neck, and just felt clumsily unwieldy. I don't buy into 'all 70's Fenders weren't all that', but I can only tell you it was very common for guys to try every one they could get their hands on in stores until they 'found a good one'.
I never did. I'm sure there's some nice ones out there, but for me that horse left the barn a long, long time ago.
Speaking to your questions, if you can't evaluate whether the things you mention are possible, or can't have it evaluated by a professional, then a new APII may indeed be a better buy for you. Unlike many, to me they're just old basses, and I'm not in a rush to pay 'vintage prices' for something that needs a lot of work only to find it just ain't fixable. A new axe solves all this. There is no magic voodoo mojo in old axes, although a lot of people are paying for it.
I never did. I'm sure there's some nice ones out there, but for me that horse left the barn a long, long time ago.
Speaking to your questions, if you can't evaluate whether the things you mention are possible, or can't have it evaluated by a professional, then a new APII may indeed be a better buy for you. Unlike many, to me they're just old basses, and I'm not in a rush to pay 'vintage prices' for something that needs a lot of work only to find it just ain't fixable. A new axe solves all this. There is no magic voodoo mojo in old axes, although a lot of people are paying for it.
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