Thunderbird Club

[JIO]

My favorite part is how every setting sounds good- neck, bridge, fingers, pick, tone on or off- any combination is useful.
The only complaint I have so far, which is the same reason I no longer own a Squier 51 precision with the single coil PU, is that when the neck pickup is soloed you can't really get the natural 4th harmonic out of the bass. It's at that magical spot where the string isn't moving. So when I'm doing YYZ with just the neck PU, the one solo/fill that Geddy does that goes all the way up the neck and ends with those two harmonics and the slide down- I have to do the 5th->9th (I think) natural harmonics of the D/G strings instead of 5th->4th how I usually would.
Very minor complaint overall and is solved by turning on the other pickup, lol

There is a formula, but from my experience it is not a rule. Whether one or two pu's, where each pu is located, what type of pu, what electronic harness, what body type/wood - will all dictate how it turns out sonically.

 

[dieselman]

Moose is Very Tasty also. No Offense to Bullwinkle.

 

[JIO]

View attachment 4637485

Is this considered an unfinished neck? I've got Dunlop fretboard 65 ultimate lemon oil, and it says to not use on unfinished fretboards. If it is finished, what's a recommended way to clean this thing?

When I hear "finished" fb, I think of a RIC primarily, but also Fender maple fb/necks. Do they 'finish' (put a clear sealer-coat) on non-maple fb's? I would think this isn't usually the case. Most RW/ebony or otherwise fb's aren't 'coated'. When I build my basses, I leave the fb un-coated, and use fb lube (or whatever oil you use) to nourish the wood. (so it doesn't dry out) But, if a 'dark wood' fb is 'coated/sealed' - you can use isopropyl alcohol to clean it.

 

[lildrgn]

When I hear "finished" fb, I think of a RIC primarily, but also Fender maple fb/necks. Do they 'finish' (put a clear sealer-coat) on non-maple fb's? I would think this isn't usually the case. Most RW/ebony or otherwise fb's aren't 'coated'. When I build my basses, I leave the fb un-coated, and use fb lube (or whatever oil you use) to nourish the wood. (so it doesn't dry out) But, if a 'dark wood' fb is 'coated/sealed' - you can use isopropyl alcohol to clean it.

Now that you mention it, I should've known. This is a RW board and does not appear sealed, like a maple board. Thanks!!

 

[JIO]

Moose is Very Tasty also. No Offense to Bullwinkle.

 

[MCF]

Me and my new bass bro @Gaolee met at his house today and after some chat and noodling around, I traded him some digital currency via Venmo and left with an Epiphone TB IV.

It wasn't getting any play by him (and he showed me a gorgeous sparkle pink Gibson Tbird!!) and I have been itching to try and get one for one whole week.

Thanks to the club for answering my questions and Gaolee for setting me up with my first Tbird!

Natural light outside my car.


Under flourescents in my basement.
View attachment 4637474

Congratulations! Welcome to the club. The Epi IV is a great way to start. Soon you’ll be wanting a Vintage Pro/60’s. And then your first Gibson. Will is a great enabler. It was nice of him to fix you up. Did you get to play it through his ACC 360?

 

[lildrgn]

Congratulations! Welcome to the club. The Epi IV is a great way to start. Soon you’ll be wanting a Vintage Pro/60’s. And then your first Gibson. Will is a great enabler. It was nice of him to fix you up. Did you get to play it through his ACC 360?

Sure did, the one with the 18"? Not super loud, though, was the middle of the afternoon and wanted to be respectful.

 

[JIO]

Now that you mention it, I should've known. This is a RW board and does not appear sealed, like a maple board. Thanks!!

You can use most any oil (even baby oil) - you just don't want an oil that remains sticky/tacky and you don't want to oversaturate it. Wipe it on, wipe the excess off. Do it as regularly as needed depending on the area you live. Here in the Bay Area - I 'lube' a fb infrequently. If you lived in the Southwest (dry conditions) or where it gets very cold (a home heater drys out wood) - it would need more frequent 'dressing'.

 

[GonePlaid]

You can use most any oil (even baby oil) - you just don't want an oil that remains sticky/tacky and you don't want to oversaturate it. Wipe it on, wipe the excess off. Do it as regularly as needed depending on the area you live. Here in the Bay Area - I 'lube' a fb infrequently. If you lived in the Southwest (dry conditions) or where it gets very cold (a home heater drys out wood) - it would need more frequent 'dressing'.

I guess my idea of using a belt sander to clean the FB isn't really the way to go then.

 

[JIO]

I guess my idea of using a belt sander to clean the FB isn't really the way to go then.

that would be a no...

 

[Miles_ONeal]

And, although the neck has been repaired, there is still a real danger of the headstock flying off and killing bandmates and audience members.

Danger? Or bonus?

 

[JIO]

I guess my idea of using a belt sander to clean the FB isn't really the way to go then.

that would be a no...

Kidding aside, as I restore vintage basses, I will use a sharp flat-blade to skim off the top layer of (whatever) on a RW or ebony fb. What is removed is a thin layer of possibly oiled or just finger-oil/grime from past players. I kind of do it as a rule on vintage fb's. This removes "Mojo"... but being that I'm not an "investor" of "blue-chip" investments... damn it Jim!, I'm a bass-player - not a surgeon! Point being - while a collector will use BS hype to pump-up the 'worth' of an "untouched" vintage bass/guitar - I get a restored/renovated vintage bass into player ready condition. (to be played - not just collected) - point being, it's ok to collect, but wasted if not played.

 

[Miles_ONeal]

Kidding aside, as I restore vintage basses, I will use a sharp flat-blade to skim off the top layer of (whatever) on a RW or ebony fb. What is removed is a thin layer of possibly oiled or just finger-oil/grime from past players. I kind of do it as a rule on vintage fb's. This removes "Mojo"... but being that I'm not an "investor" of "blue-chip" investments... damn it Jim!, I'm a bass-player - not a surgeon! Point being - while a collector will use BS hype to pump-up the 'worth' of an "untouched" vintage bass/guitar - I get a restored/renovated vintage bass into player ready condition. (to be played - not just collected) - point being, it's ok to collect, but wasted if not played.

I’ve always used an old credit card and if necessary, 0000 steel wool.

 

[Keith Rawlings]

Hi, I'd like to join the club with my recently acquired 1992 Gibson Thunderbird. Having always played fender basses I never gave Tbirds a second thought until I tried one and discovered how amazing they sound. This one is pretty "road worn" and has had a headstock break in its past but I wouldn't want it to look any other way. All original parts as far as I know. The neck pickup with low clanky action and a bit of overdrive sounds like warm maple syrup poured over blueberry pancakes. Or something. First thing that comes to mind lol
View attachment 4637209

Welcome to the most fun forum on Talkbass — an ode to the greatest electric bass ever made! Enjoy!

Your bass looks exactly like my ‘93 T-Bird.

 

[JIO]

I’ve always used an old credit card and if necessary, 0000 steel wool.

Never been a big fan of steel wool, especially anywhere around pu magnets. Flat-blading removes the required layer of gunk and levels the surface of the wood. A cc is not sharp enough remove the necessary amount of "layer" and steel wool "buffs" more that it removes. Just my take on it. YOMV

 

[PhR75]

The only complaint I have so far, which is the same reason I no longer own a Squier 51 precision with the single coil PU, is that when the neck pickup is soloed you can't really get the natural 4th harmonic out of the bass. It's at that magical spot where the string isn't moving. So when I'm doing YYZ with just the neck PU, the one solo/fill that Geddy does that goes all the way up the neck and ends with those two harmonics and the slide down- I have to do the 5th->9th (I think) natural harmonics of the D/G strings instead of 5th->4th how I usually would.
Very minor complaint overall and is solved by turning on the other pickup, lol

Interesting, I never really thought about that "problem" with my '51 style bass. It has an added bridge pickup so maybe when I play with harmonics I have both on (usually do anyway).

To solve that with a T-Bird: you have to get a Epi VP for example, the neck pickup is closer to the bridge. A 60's IV or II would work too (reverse or non-reverse), maybe the Bicentennial also.
A great excuse to get another T-Bird if there ever was.

 

[GonePlaid]

Interesting, I never really thought about that "problem" with my '51 style bass. It has an added bridge pickup so maybe when I play with harmonics I have both on (usually do anyway).

To solve that with a T-Bird: you have to get a Epi VP for example, the neck pickup is closer to the bridge. A 60's IV or II would work too (reverse or non-reverse), maybe the Bicentennial also.
A great excuse to get another T-Bird if there ever was.

The only excuse I have for not getting another TBird is mufunzalo.

 

[PhR75]

I get it. Mufunzalo is an unknown word for me 'though.

 

[GonePlaid]

I get it. Mufunzalo is an unknown word for me 'though.

Ersatz Italian for my funds are low.

 

[Miles_ONeal]

Ersatz Italian for my funds are low.

Mebbe his funds are never low!