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Thunderbird Club

What can I say that hasn't already been said?

There is nothing wrong with the 3 point bridge. I have replaced all mine with Hipshots because I like the Hipshots better than I like the 3 point. And that is all there is to it.



Well now I feel all warm and squishy inside.

I have a bass with a babicz, holy crap it’s nice!
 
hmmm, nut plays a part too..

Not mine. Maybe Flea's?
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So I have read on the interwebz how horrible the stock 3 point bridge is, but I have no problems with them.

What exactly am I supposed to hate about it?
Made of the cheapest possible cast pot metal, saddles fall out when you break a string, not enough space between saddle and tailpiece so the wrap at the end of the string rides on the saddle, no string break angle over saddle guaranteeing your strings flop around like fish at high tide, on many basses you can't get the action low enough.
I leave anything out?
 
I think @RedVee is on to something in his response. Our own @godofthunder59 here is the developer of the Badbird bridge. He’ll be along at some point; he’s likely gigging or recovering from gigging. The beauty of his design is that the saddles have extended travel length for better intonation. I do not know how different it is from the Epi VP though. He might have a suggestion.
Absolutely no idea why this is, without bass in hand I can't diagnose it. All three of my VPs intonate perfectly with a 105 E string.
 
Made of the cheapest possible cast pot metal, saddles fall out when you break a string, not enough space between saddle and tailpiece so the wrap at the end of the string rides on the saddle, no string break angle over saddle guaranteeing your strings flop around like fish at high tide, on many basses you can't get the action low enough.
I leave anything out?
That they look great?
 
Welcome mate.

perhaps post a photo of the bridge in relation to the end of the bass. I remember reading that Epiphone did a batch with the bridge/ stop piece in the wrong position, too far back I think. Post some measurements too.

(Or was that on the Embassy?)
I was wondering as well if the bridge was in the wrong spot.
 
So I have read on the interwebz how horrible the stock 3 point bridge is, but I have no problems with them.

What exactly am I supposed to hate about it?
I don't particularly like the looks vs the 60s style, but the one on my '76 (in the avitar) works just as it should. But it does seem like an over-thought design. (Someone falling for and believing they were more clever than reality would substantiate.) I don't like high action. Maybe I got lucky. But Scott makes some really great and valid points.
 
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There is an easy cure.... I defretted a bass with a 3 point and had zero issues lowering the nut and saddle height.

So a set of saddle files for $80 that can fix multiple basses, vs $130 for a bridge to fix one bass... I can see why the hatred for the 3 point...
So, I have the Goth T-Bird and it still has the factory 3-point on it. I tinkered with it a bit to get the action down like I would like it to be. But, keeping in mind that after reading a ton of internet comments about the 3-point pulling the front insert out, I chose to leave my front screw higher than the rear screws. This was a choice I made because the last thing I want is a bass with an insert pulling out. I'd rather deal with the high action for now until I can find a real solution that works for me.

All of that stated, I find the action to still be too high for my preference. That was after playing with neck relief some and making a bridge height adjustment. Honestly, I'd either like to have a different bridge or a wedge shim under the neck to kick the angle a bit more. The shim would be the cheaper option for sure. I haven't gone down the road of filing the nut because I want to get the proper tools to do a real setup before I go that far. My neck adjustment was just eyeballing it, so I'll get real before I go filing on things.

To cap this off, I never said everyone hates it, or that it's a terrible design. I said that a lot of people (myself included) don't feel that the action can be adjusted the way they want it. I also said, other than that, it's fine. Like, those were basically my exact words. I'm also NOT going to de-fret my Goth T-Bird over it.
 
So, I have the Goth T-Bird and it still has the factory 3-point on it. I tinkered with it a bit to get the action down like I would like it to be. But, keeping in mind that after reading a ton of internet comments about the 3-point pulling the front insert out, I chose to leave my front screw higher than the rear screws. This was a choice I made because the last thing I want is a bass with an insert pulling out. I'd rather deal with the high action for now until I can find a real solution that works for me.

All of that stated, I find the action to still be too high for my preference. That was after playing with neck relief some and making a bridge height adjustment. Honestly, I'd either like to have a different bridge or a wedge shim under the neck to kick the angle a bit more. The shim would be the cheaper option for sure. I haven't gone down the road of filing the nut because I want to get the proper tools to do a real setup before I go that far. My neck adjustment was just eyeballing it, so I'll get real before I go filing on things.

To cap this off, I never said everyone hates it, or that it's a terrible design. I said that a lot of people (myself included) don't feel that the action can be adjusted the way they want it. I also said, other than that, it's fine. Like, those were basically my exact words. I'm also NOT going to de-fret my Goth T-Bird over it.

It wouldn't be talk bass if you weren't accused of saying the exact opposite of what you said.

And it wouldn't be Thunderbird club if I didn't suggest that a watermelon helmet might help.
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