Haji
Supporting Member
If they did the belly cut, say, 95% more than it already is, then maybe that'd help...
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I do the same... for the same reason! That's the #1 reason I have two Epi Classics and haven't grabbed a Gibson reverse Tbird yet. I don't want to drill a hole in one! ...but I might anyway.
Just an "I'm kinda wondering" type question: Since I have a bought and paid for food blister, I have a little bit of a problem with muh Bird tipping away from me at the top. Its a 2014 so the front strap pin is on the neck plate, and I've moved the rear pin up about 5 or 6 inches. If I move the rear pin to the upper bout, or at least up from where it came from the factory, would that he'p with the Blister Tipping (I'm gonna use that for my as-yet-unformed cowpunkabilly thrash band name).
I have tried that and it does work. The problem for me is that I'm 6'6" and don't have any more strap to let out. It pulls the bass up too high. If I had a little more strap to work with that's probably the problem solver.I solve this by running my strap over the bottom wing of the bass instead of under it, to pull it in closer to the body. Doesn't look as good, but holds it in a much more comfortable position, for me at least!
Exactly. Each time you take a drill to a Gibson, it gets just a little easier.Several of mine (Gibsons) have 3 strap pins on them, my first Nikki Sixx had four, just do it!
Lol. Yeah just do it. It'll stop hurting soon...Exactly. Each time you take a drill to a Gibson, it gets just a little easier.
Got a photo of that? I'm having a hard time picturing it.Put the rear strap button up into the belly cut at the backside of the body, front button in the generally prescribed location. Moves the whole bass to your right a good bit, nut is a closer reach. Bass will stay where you put it.
Seems a weird thing to do, but it works a charm.
I have the Classic Pro. The end of fretboard is 1/4 inch (just the fretboard, without the fret) above the body at the center/highest point. The body to saddle distance is 10 to 11/16ths inch as setup for fairly low action. The saddles are adjusted about 1/16 inch up from the lowest they can sit.I am thinking on building a replacement for my RD Standard, since they are quite hard to get. And I thought this could be a better alternative than the original bridge.
Is your TB a Classic pro? And could you assist me with the height from bass top to saddle and from bass top to fretboard top? I need them to calculate the angle for my build
Thanks!
.Thanks for the tip. I wasn't sure how hard the plate was.Just drill a hole in the plate and use the strap button and screw you already have. It works great. The plate is soft metal of some kind if it's like the bolt-on I have.
For what it's worth, the 2015 got out to play last night. I'm having a tough time deciding which one of the three Gibsons is the main one and which ones are backups. I think it's a rotation. They are all a little different, and they all sound like they should. Just slightly different. Having to pick a favorite 'Bird and not being able to do it is tough, but I'll just have to bear it.![]()
Hi all , next week I will buy my first Thunderbird , I'm very excited.
The seller offered me one from 1991 and one from 2000.
I play in a rock band alternative , my rig is a Ampeg SVT -4 and a 410HE cab .
Is there any noticeable difference between these two basses ?
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks!
I solve this by running my strap over the bottom wing of the bass instead of under it, to pull it in closer to the body. Doesn't look as good, but holds it in a much more comfortable position, for me at least!
Got a photo of that? I'm having a hard time picturing it.
Got a photo of that? I'm having a hard time picturing it.
Finally...Got a photo of that? I'm having a hard time picturing it.