Haji
Supporting Member
Along those lines: Epi pickups have a mounting hole right in the middle where I rest my thumb. Any solutions for covering or filling that hole non-permanently for the sake of it not sucking?
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About $42k Aust.![]()
Pretty close to $AU50K landed (with Australian taxes and charges).
That is just silly. I could buy a couple of collector grade, carefully played but all original pre CBS Fenders for that.
The story about Overend Watts had me waiting for a connection to the bass that is for sale (although wasn't that the bass that Martin Turner ended up with in Wishbone Ash?) or at least the obligatory Jaco story that seem to go with ridiculously priced basses.
I also got a laugh out of the reasoning why Polaris White is uncommon ie "Being a very feminine color choice, obviously Gibson had very few takers as with most of its color options & no more than a few were ever produced."
Seriously though guys, what do you reckon this bass would realistically fetch, assuming it is as represented? How about if it is a refin? How about a refin over a neck repair?
I put duct tape over the screws on another bass that has that problem. They still stick out, of course, but atleast they don't hurt my fingers anymoreAny suggestions for pickup screws for vintage-style pickups? I play with fingers directly over the neck pickup, and standard pickup screws stick out too far for comfort.
That yellowed headstock has me perplexed, first red flag. Same for the tug bar location,as Carlo pointed out. Without having it in had I would have to say it's a refin.As Carlo said he paid a lot less and his doesn't have the issues he's mentioned, it's really hard to see much clearly. Between Carlo and Scott you've got the guys that really know Thunderbirds, if they're both saying not worth it - I'd trust their opinions. Worst case scenario, broken neck, refin 3-4K I'm thinking. It is still a rare bass....
Pretty close to $AU50K landed (with Australian taxes and charges).
That is just silly. I could buy a couple of collector grade, carefully played but all original pre CBS Fenders for that.
The story about Overend Watts had me waiting for a connection to the bass that is for sale (although wasn't that the bass that Martin Turner ended up with in Wishbone Ash?) or at least the obligatory Jaco story that seem to go with ridiculously priced basses.
I also got a laugh out of the reasoning why Polaris White is uncommon ie "Being a very feminine color choice, obviously Gibson had very few takers as with most of its color options & no more than a few were ever produced."
Seriously though guys, what do you reckon this bass would realistically fetch, assuming it is as represented? How about if it is a refin? How about a refin over a neck repair?
I stand corrected. That's good information, since I have never seen a Gibby case from that era.Don't know about the strap button, but I'm pretty sure that's a Gibby case from that era.
I can say from experience that the screws Hongkonbuckers come with stick up proud of the cover. From that standpoint, Thunderbuckers are far, far superior if the screws sit flush.The problem with MOST 'vintage style' pickups is the covers. The screw holes are too small for these screws which sit almost flush with the tops of true vintage pickups (or ThunderBuckers, because Steve and I give a s#*% about stuff like that)
Nickel Soap Bar Pickup Mounting Screws | Allparts.com
You can carefully drill the holes in your covers larger to work with the Allparts screws.
I can say from experience that the screws Hongkonbuckers come with stick up proud of the cover. From that standpoint, Thunderbuckers are far, far superior if the screws sit flush.
The problem with MOST 'vintage style' pickups is the covers. The screw holes are too small for these screws which sit almost flush with the tops of true vintage pickups (or ThunderBuckers, because Steve and I give a s#*% about stuff like that)
Nickel Soap Bar Pickup Mounting Screws | Allparts.com
You can carefully drill the holes in your covers larger to work with the Allparts screws.
I can say from experience that the screws Hongkonbuckers come with stick up proud of the cover. From that standpoint, Thunderbuckers are far, far superior if the screws sit flush.
For $250 a pair more, I would hope so! Lol
Agree. That's one cool bass, and I'm not an Explorer guy. Very sharp.That's one of the best lookin' Explorer style basses I've ever seen. It's fantastic!
Thanks, Mark...and everyone else! It's a lefty strung right handed. With the front strap button on the heel it's easy to play 'upside down' so it was a snap to set up.Great looking Bass Carlo!
They're also closer to vintage specs than China Buckers. I sent a pair to Steve (ThunderBucker) to scope:
"So I got to compare a set of my 66s against CBs. They measure out a
little different
Pup R L Q
66N 8.635 3.713 2.095
CBN 8.420 3.031 1.801
66B 9.231 4.371 2.267
CBB 9.382 4.026 2.054
I get a little more L for R than they do, that could be a difference
in the mag perm of their magnets. I'd expect my N to be a bit louder
than theirs due to the large diff in L.
That does show up in the VU meters once recorded.
66 NB pair -5.9
CB NB pair -5.4
66N -3.2
CBN -6.9
Their N seems a little quieter and brighter than mine. I could easily
unwind mine a little to get the same."
As they say in auto racing, the last 10% of performance cost 90% more.
ThunderBuckers sound more 'musical' to me. There's more harmonic content compared To CBs, probably due to how they're wound. ThunderBuckers are hand scatter wound, CBs probably by machine. (BTW Chinabuckers are shipped from Heilongjiang which is about as far north of Hong Kong as you can get.) No electronics get made in HK these days, land is too expensive for factories.
Luckily, I don't have to compromise, the basses I build get ThunderBuckers.
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Very cool bass, Carlo!
Interesting info from Steve. Seems he ran a nominal 8K (8.42) for neck and nominal 9.2K (9.382) for bridge.
This paired with my couple of readings suggests quite a variability in the resistance of nominal 9.2K Chinabuckers (9.382 up to 9.58 on the three measured).
The pair of Chinabuckers I used (what I call nominal 9.2Ks ) actually measured- 9.52 and 9.58K (using the same multimeter I measured the TB+s I took out at both exactly 9.7K ie no difference between neck and bridge).
I have an 8K Chinabucker spare here and it measured around 8.4K from memory.