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TI Flats Conundrum

lowplaces

Supporting Member
Dec 20, 2015
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8,561
Kentucky
My TI Flats arrived yesterday and they are the short scale set.

Here is the issue I'm running into. I'm wanting to install them on my Mustang PJ...

0712182329.jpg


Unless I use some sort of spacers to extend the ball end of the E string away from the bridge an inch or so, it appears I'm going to wind up with around 3 wraps of the exposed windings on the tuner post.

Are the TI E strings pliable enough to pull it off without ruining the string ?

And yes I know other string sets will fit better but if possible I want TI's on this bass.
 
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With the vintage style tuners on the bass, the hole in the center of the tuner is about an inch deep. So I can leave about can leave 2.25 -2.5 inches of the silk on the tuner end of the string. That will allow me to bend the silk end as such..

0713181113a.jpg


...and insert it into the hole on the tuner. That should leave enough silk on the end of the string to keep the windings intact.

Still leaves the question of the exposed windings
on tuner post.

Here is a photo of a Squier MusicMaster Bass, which has a string through bridge.installed. TI Flats installed. On the E string you can see the windings on the post and the resulting effect.

1025172120a.jpg

The windings weren't separating much around the post but enough to notice.

The photo doesn't show it but once the string cleared the tuning post the windings were not separated.
 
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Thomastik-Infeld's idea of "short scale" is 34" from ball end to silk, rather than 32" like most other string manufacturers. I've seen reports from others that these strings work fine on 30" scale basses even if the windings end up wrapped around the post, but I've never tried it myself. I think now that you have them installed, you may as well leave them there and see how long they last, and if they sooner or later end up breaking at the post.
 
Thomastik-Infeld's idea of "short scale" is 34" from ball end to silk, rather than 32" like most other string manufacturers. I've seen reports from others that these strings work fine on 30" scale basses even if the windings end up wrapped around the post, but I've never tried it myself. I think now that you have them installed, you may as well leave them there and see how long they last, and if they sooner or later end up breaking at the post.
I haven't installed them yet.

As you mentioned, short scale Chromes for example have a winding length of 32 in. These TI's
Have a 35.5 in winding length according to the info on BSO.

With the vintage style Fender tuners I don't think there will be an issue of the string breaking.

It's the separation of the winding in regards to so many turns on the post that concerns me.
 
I have about an inch of the GHS Precision Flat 95E wrapped around the tuning post, which is less than a full wrap. I was a bit concerned at the beginning but it doesn't seem to cause any issues. My intention is to keep them on my P bass till death do us part.

bHxGIc-sAXugbVUWXkPlklTgw0Qgc6xFgCDnhLlat3DubOID9JlX0sGPnkUO3FT8B0xQa0Dn5-cLaYgNgzY=w800-h450-no.jpg


Considering TI's are even more flexible than the GHS P Flats, you should be okay as long as you plan to leave them on.
 
I have about an inch of the GHS Precision Flat 95E wrapped around the tuning post, which is less than a full wrap. I was a bit concerned at the beginning but it doesn't seem to cause any issues. My intention is to keep them on my P bass till death do us part.

View attachment 3080128

Considering TI's are even more flexible than the GHS P Flats, you should be okay as long as you plan to leave them on.

Ok, the photo there eases my concern. Shows that much better than the one I posted. On yours there, once the string leaves the tuning post towards the nut, the windings aren't separated.

Hard to tell without actually winding the string but I took another look and I think my exposed windings are going to be about 2 in or perhaps a little more on the post.
 
TI Flats are very flexible. They will make the wind around the tuning post without issue. I've seen long scale TI's put on that bass without a problem.

Ok, thanks man !

I do need to leave some of the silk on the end of the string before I cut it though ?

Or are the guys using the long scale sets actually cutting the string short of the silk ?

On, say a Strat with vintage tuners, forming a V before cutting the string serves to keep the windings from unraveling and also keeps the string from popping out of the hole in the tuner.

Bass Flats are a different animal I assume though. And a .106 E would be tough to bend into a V before cutting it.
 
I recently did the same thing, got a set of TI "short" scale strings only to find out they are far too long even when run thru the body; I sent them back.

Labella's medium scale sets are 34" ball-to-silk, perfect for Mustangs string-thru use.

My bridge is top load.

I'm going to go ahead and put them on. If Jason says they'll be fine, that's good enough for me.

But I'm totally with you on getting the proper length set. I've just never cared for any stainless steel set I have tried.
 
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After dealing with the train wreck under the pickguard and control plate while I had the strings off ( which deserves its own little thread ) , here's how it went.

0713181423.jpg

0713181421a.jpg

These are indeed flexible. I was quite surprised at how easy it was to wrap the post taut enough to measure, mark, and line up my bends for the vintage style tuner.

This isn't to scale but this is what my V to insert into the tuner hole looks like. I left the end extending out of the hole a bit to allow pushing the string all the way down into the hole as well as to allow removing the string easily.

0713181520.jpg

Photos taken with string tension about two and a half steps below standard. Wraps should tighten right up when tuned up to pitch.

Off to finish it up !
 

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Just to confirm: it worked with my Bronco Bass as well, a bit odd, when you put on the E string, but afterwards it is completely fine this way. The TI strings are really soft and flexible. I just have an older photograph at hand, as I am not at home in the moment.

View attachment 3080356
Good deal. If those are the smaller post stock Squier tuners that's further proof if how flexible these strings are.
I love the soft feel. And fretting notes seems to take only 1/3 of the effort as high tension strings.


Mine is strung up and I'm going to let it sit about 3 hours for the strings to settle a bit. Then I'll set the witness points and intonation.

Out of the box mine had a tad too much relief but now that the TI's are on it it looks just about right. Very close to Fender specs anyhow. I'll wait a day or two and check it again.

0713181700.jpg
 
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Good deal. If those are the smaller post stock Squier tuners that's further proof if how flexible these strings are.
I love the soft feel. And fretting notes seems to take only 1/3 of the effort as high tension strings.
Yes! I had half-rounds, chrome flatwounds and tape-wounds before, then a friend recommended the TIs and I must confirm: they are really special. Great feel and a well balanced tone.
 
Are the TI E strings pliable enough to pull it off without ruining the string ?

And yes I know other string sets will fit better but if possible I want TI's on this bass.

I ran into the same issue installing the TI flats on my Fender Starcaster. Although I was not happy about having to wrap bare (E) string around the post, I've had no issues at all with tone or performance.

Carry on and enjoy!
 
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With the vintage style tuners on the bass, the hole in the center of the tuner is about an inch deep. So I can leave about can leave 2.25 -2.5 inches of the silk on the tuner end of the string. That will allow me to bend the silk end as such..

View attachment 3080099

...and insert it into the hole on the tuner. That should leave enough silk on the end of the string to keep the windings intact.

Still leaves the question of the exposed windings
on tuner post.

Here is a photo of a Squier MusicMaster Bass, which has a string through bridge.installed. TI Flats installed. On the E string you can see the windings on the post and the resulting effect.

View attachment 3080109

The windings weren't separating much around the post but enough to notice.

The photo doesn't show it but once the string cleared the tuning post the windings were not separated.

This is actually the correct way to insert your strings anyway (at least for roundwounds) to prevent them from unwinding from the core and having "dead" strings.

Not sure if it helps as much on flatwounds, but definitely wouldn't hurt to do it.
 
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