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Tip Please..
- Thread starter dremy2006
- Start date
Here's how I do it:
1) bandsaw out the profile
2) safe-t-plane the thickness
3) rasp the volute to about the third fret
4) rasp the heel back a few inches
(now you have a spaed heel and nut to 3rd fret)
5) connect the 2 shaped areas at either end rasping the middle and checking with a straight edge to ensure no hills or valleys
6) Finish up with an orbital sander
The other way I do it is with a belt sander, but that takes a ton more practice. You basically go at it like eating corn off a cob. It's much faster, but you can easily kill a neck by going too far.
1) bandsaw out the profile
2) safe-t-plane the thickness
3) rasp the volute to about the third fret
4) rasp the heel back a few inches
(now you have a spaed heel and nut to 3rd fret)
5) connect the 2 shaped areas at either end rasping the middle and checking with a straight edge to ensure no hills or valleys
6) Finish up with an orbital sander
The other way I do it is with a belt sander, but that takes a ton more practice. You basically go at it like eating corn off a cob. It's much faster, but you can easily kill a neck by going too far.
Don't be intimidated because you can't draw it out. Try it first on softwood. If you can get a decent result there, you're good to go with hardwoods as long as you have patience. Use whatever tools you've got- don't hold off if you don't have bandsaw, router or whatever. You can do it with about anything, again as long as you're patient. Mainly, get in there and hack up a couple practice pieces. You'll find it's easier than you thought and it's some of the most fun in building. When you've made a few dozen necks you can probably blaze through them. In the meantime, that's right, have patience.
Hi.
A spokeshave and/or a belt sander.
Drum sander obviously works well too, but can be a bit harder to find
.
Regards
Sam
A spokeshave and/or a belt sander.
Drum sander obviously works well too, but can be a bit harder to find
.Regards
Sam
The approach I have been taught is pretty much the same as automan does, except I never use orbital sanders on my guitar, most of my sanding is by hand with felt of rubber backing blocks, less chance of creating waves.
I also use wood backing blocks but I make sure to join or plane the sanding surface to assure a completely flat surface. A 1"x1"x6-12" block with 50 to 80 grit sandpaper is very effective for getting the final shape dialed in.
(edit: I do use a bench mounted orbital sander, it is the hand held orbitals I do not use.
One thing I will mention is I glue the fingerboard on to the neck blank and then use it as the guide for cutting the neck taper (nut width to end of neck width). The back, or what I think of as the profile, I do entirely by hand. I like that it makes the neck the most personal part of the guitar.
And with the japanese Shinto saw rasp and Dragon files I have been introduced to, it is an absolute joy to cut and shape the wood.
suggested search terms: rasps, files, Shinto, Safe-T-Plane, carving, shaping, (and of course) necks,
I also use wood backing blocks but I make sure to join or plane the sanding surface to assure a completely flat surface. A 1"x1"x6-12" block with 50 to 80 grit sandpaper is very effective for getting the final shape dialed in.
(edit: I do use a bench mounted orbital sander, it is the hand held orbitals I do not use.
One thing I will mention is I glue the fingerboard on to the neck blank and then use it as the guide for cutting the neck taper (nut width to end of neck width). The back, or what I think of as the profile, I do entirely by hand. I like that it makes the neck the most personal part of the guitar.
And with the japanese Shinto saw rasp and Dragon files I have been introduced to, it is an absolute joy to cut and shape the wood.
suggested search terms: rasps, files, Shinto, Safe-T-Plane, carving, shaping, (and of course) necks,
