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To achieve perfect low action do I need to...

#2
Also try the highest gauge of strings possible. the higher the gauge the tighter the string so less fret buzz. And you will have to adjust the bridge and truss and be very careful adjusting the truss rod only do 1/8 to 1/4 turns at a time and leave the neck alone for a few days to re adjust if you dont you can crack then neck.
 
#3
spaz21387 said:
Also try the highest gauge of strings possible. the higher the gauge the tighter the string so less fret buzz. And you will have to adjust the bridge and truss and be very careful adjusting the truss rod only do 1/8 to 1/4 turns at a time and leave the neck alone for a few days to re adjust if you dont you can crack then neck.
Click to expand...

So you mean that to achieve perfect low action for your bass, you must adjust both the truss rod and bridge? The luthier at the store I bought it from said to me to "Always adjust at the truss rod not at the bridge." This was thru an email. Now, he won't even reply at all.
 
#8
When I set my basses up, I set relief with the truss rod first, then set action with the bridge saddles. But if you set relief (how flat the neck is) to be zero or very low, then you will likely have to raise the saddles higher than you would otherwise to prevent fret buzz.

I'd find the relief and action specifications for the brand of bass you have, and follow those until you have a feel for your own preferences.

Roger
 
#9
I just saw your username, so I presume you have an Ibanez SR505. Ibanez, unhelpfully, doesn't give a relief spec for their basses. But the SR505 has a 305mm, or 12 inch, fretboard radius. Fender gives a relief spec of .012 inches, or .3 mm, for relief for their basses with that fretboard radius. I'd set relief to that with the truss rod (using a feeler gauge to measure from the top of the 8th fret to the bottom of the lowest string), and then set action to Ibanez specs.

Roger
 
#10
The amount of relief has a direct effect on how the neck feels under your fingers, so I most definitely use the truss in conjunction with the saddles to change action. A little bit of buzz if it occurs is a non issue for me, in fact I like it.
 
#11
ilovemysr505 said:
To achieve perfect low action do I need to adjust the bridge and truss rod accordingly? Or does setting the neck dead flat mean lowest action possible without fret buzz(through amp)? Thank you Tb'ers! Cheers!
Click to expand...
Neck dead flat will NOT give you the lowest action. A small relief, 0.006-0.012" will give the strings enough room to vibrate without fret buzz & with a light right hand touch. Heavier right hand may have you up to 0.15-0.025". Either way, the bass will play nicely once you get close. Get too fussy with 'how low can you go' & you get;
a: fret buzz when the humidity goes up
b: plenty of practice tweaking a set up
 
#12
To get super low action with no buzzing, you will need perfect fretwork. No amount of adjusting will help you achieve this if your frets aren't dead flat.

Also - don't just go turning your truss rod indiscriminately. Every part of the setup process interacts with the others. In extremely basic terms, the order is nut, truss rod, bridge saddles, intonation.

One more thing: Fender recommends .012" relief? Good god man, a neck with that much relief would look like a banana.
 
#13
ilovemysr505 said:
So you mean that to achieve perfect low action for your bass, you must adjust both the truss rod and bridge? The luthier at the store I bought it from said to me to "Always adjust at the truss rod not at the bridge." This was thru an email. Now, he won't even reply at all.
Click to expand...

That "luthier", is an imbecile--would this have been a GC?

If your frets aren't dead level (with a slight dropoff starting at about F12-F15), which MOST basses can't claim, you're severely compromised in your search for low action.
 
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#18
Ive been playing for almost 40 years. I do my own minor adjusting (if I change string gauge or type).

Otherwise I have found an excellent setup guy in my area.

You can specify "factory spec", lower than normal action,
or in my case since I also play an EUB, I ask for slightly higher than "normal" to adjust for my harder touch.

It's worth the $$$.
 
#19
ilovemysr505 said:
So you mean that to achieve perfect low action for your bass, you must adjust both the truss rod and bridge? The luthier at the store I bought it from said to me to "Always adjust at the truss rod not at the bridge." This was thru an email. Now, he won't even reply at all.
Click to expand...
Not much of a "luthier" I'd say. The truss rod is for adjusting neck relief ... ONLY. Adjust the relief, check neck angle (if bolt on), check fret level, check nut slot height, check saddle height, intonate.
 
#20
Benjamin Strange said:
One more thing: Fender recommends .012" relief? Good god man, a neck with that much relief would look like a banana.
Click to expand...

Fender recommends 0.012" for basses with 9.5" to 12" radius fretboards; 0.010" for 7.25" radius. 0.012" is measured at the eighth fret, between the fret top and the bottom of the E string (for 4-strings). I use an automotive feeler gauge to measure it.

:confused: I set my basses up to Fender specs and they play very nicely.

Roger
 

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