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To use or not to use this fingerboard blank

Would you use this fingerboard blank?

  • Yes, that little warpage wouldn't bother me

    Votes: 29 70.7%

  • Yes, but I'd try to wet bend it back to straight first

    Votes: 7 17.1%

  • Yes, but I'd plane it down and glue a veneer to it to make it thicker first

    Votes: 3 7.3%

  • No, absolutely not

    Votes: 2 4.9%
  • Total voters
    41
#21
Aha, I see. It is not a massive amount of warp, however I am of the opinion that any discrepancies being "forced out" of a warped board being glued up to an otherwise straight neck will eventually express themselves in the finished product's fretwork. A 1mm warp is not a lot however, and if that is all the movement it is wanting to do then I would accept that.

I would use it as it stands. That said, I would leave the neck to acclimate a couple of weeks after removing the clamps from glueing up before trueing and radiusing the face. I think 9/10 you won't see this problem rear its head in the fretwork.
 
#22
Prostheta said:
Aha, I see. It is not a massive amount of warp, however I am of the opinion that any discrepancies being "forced out" of a warped board being glued up to an otherwise straight neck will eventually express themselves in the finished product's fretwork. A 1mm warp is not a lot however, and if that is all the movement it is wanting to do then I would accept that.

I would use it as it stands. That said, I would leave the neck to acclimate a couple of weeks after removing the clamps from glueing up before trueing and radiusing the face. I think 9/10 you won't see this problem rear its head in the fretwork.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your vision on this. I think you're absolutely right about warped wood, this was so little warpage however, that I was in doubt. For example, I have bought a regular Maple neck blank and it cupped a lot lateral. So now I use the sides as a straight edge, or as a pressing caul :smug:.

Fact is, I store my wood stickered, but without weights on it. I monitor the humidity and temperature and wait till the wood had enough time to acclimatize... if it warps this little, I think it's a pitty not to use it anymore.

So all in all, I hope it'll turn out to be okay, because I cannot afford a new neck, both in money as in time.
 
#23
I am sure that it will. The wood to watch out for more than anything is the neck wood after you hog off a huge amount of material carving the profile.

You can be confident in spending your existing "replacement neck fund" on a couple of beers to post later. I'll read these posts enthusiastically whilst doing the same of course.
 
#25
Prostheta said:
I am sure that it will. The wood to watch out for more than anything is the neck wood after you hog off a huge amount of material carving the profile.

You can be confident in spending your existing "replacement neck fund" on a couple of beers to post later. I'll read these posts enthusiastically whilst doing the same of course.
Click to expand...

That is a good idea you have there, let's do that! :smug: :bassist:

ibateur said:
Steam and clamp man.

I know why I can't build these things.... I have no patience
Click to expand...

Well, patience is something you have to acquire, didn't had it myself either back then... And I have no choice, I have a lot of other obligations so it goes slow anyway ;)
 
#28
Well....waiting for a call from a possible employer. Going crazy, trying to find repair work, and talking (a little) with some people who want builds. It is amazing...when people tell you they want to commission you to build...they are reluctant when you say that you are ready. I am also dying to start the next build...either remaking a neck for my student bass, or start work on a J-Bass. Plus, because of having to buff the finish early, I have a bass that is de-gassing. Yep...going slightly mad. That is why I am living out my fantasies to build through you.....just kidding. keep up the good work, Rob...looking great!
 
#29
Thumpin_P said:
Well....waiting for a call from a possible employer. Going crazy, trying to find repair work, and talking (a little) with some people who want builds. It is amazing...when people tell you they want to commission you to build...they are reluctant when you say that you are ready. I am also dying to start the next build...either remaking a neck for my student bass, or start work on a J-Bass. Plus, because of having to buff the finish early, I have a bass that is de-gassing. Yep...going slightly mad. That is why I am living out my fantasies to build through you.....just kidding. keep up the good work, Rob...looking great!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment! I can imagine it's hard to start and to get some real orders, to find people who really want you to build for them. Once you've made the start, things'll go easier I hope. I wish you luck starting your dream business. Do you yet have a web site or a Facebook page to display your work and to get some publicity?
 
#30
No...right now, it's only friends. I want to spend time, working for someone else, and honing my craft. Little by little, I will get there. I just hate being patient, waiting for an employer to call me back. For the time being, I am doing research, learning what I can. Sitting around can drive you nuts...
 
#34
ON the ONE said:
That board is just useless.... You could send it to me for proper disposal......
Just kidding:). I couldn't resist. That truly is an incredible piece of Mac.
Click to expand...

Thanks, it is! :D But the story continues as I live and learn... I clamped the board flat on the table to get it straight. That seemed to work. But I clamped it flat on the table, without stickering it. Last week, the humidity in my workshop was 32%. Since then, it has increased to 45%, little by little. And today, I noticed the fingerboard blank was becoming convex laterally :scowl:

I should have known that clamping the board flat on the table with an increasing humidity made the upper side pick up more moisture from the air than the bottom.. so it's very logical what happened. Maybe it isn't too much of a problem, but it stopped me from being able to start working on the fingerboard today, as I planned..

So I wet the board on two sides, a little more on the concave side, placed it on sticks and clamped it down and flat using sticks at the top too. I hope it straightens itself soon.

:hiding:
 
#35
If it were me I would use that board with no concern. Any time you cut a piece of wood that thin I would expect a small amount of movement and if you're only talking 1mm thats a very small amount. Are you making a fretted or fretless bass? If is fretted or a lined fretlesss there is so much material removed for the fret slots that movement would be a moot point but even as an unlined fretless I dont think you will have an issue.
 
#36
Big B. said:
If it were me I would use that board with no concern. Any time you cut a piece of wood that thin I would expect a small amount of movement and if you're only talking 1mm thats a very small amount. Are you making a fretted or fretless bass? If is fretted or a lined fretlesss there is so much material removed for the fret slots that movement would be a moot point but even as an unlined fretless I dont think you will have an issue.
Click to expand...

Thanks, good point, about the material removed for the fret slots. Right now, I'm more concerned about the cup I introduced by clamping it down, than the warpage. I got so much helpful replies and visions on this, that I think the common view is 'no problem, use it'. I hope to be able to get things straight in a week and start building the fingerboard! Thanks :smug:
 

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