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Too much solder on pot...Problem?

Hey guys, I'm replacing the pickups in my MIM Jazz bass and I can't seem to get it to work. I've replaced pickups before, but my soldering/wiring experience really isn't very deep. I wired it up and the neck pickup works fine, but the bridge only gets 10% of the volume it should. It's noticeable that it is turning on but obviously it isn't right.

I came up with a few ideas as to why this is happening

1) There is solder where one of the loop things meets the pot. Here is a photo of where I mean.

potpic_zpsf40f7b1d.gif


2) The pickup is bad. I can't test it yet since I don't have an ohms tester right now. I'll be getting one tonight.

3) I had another reason, but I think it was stupid so I'm looking into it now.
 
Having solder on that little eyelet is not a problem at all, so long as it is not touching the body of the pot or any of the other connections other than the lug the eyelet is attached to.
 
I'm looking at the wiring that is in my bass and the wiring diagrams online and the wiring of the pre-wired control plate I have and it looks like the wiring is complete garbage and missing stuff. There is way too much solder on all the joints and it missing many of the grounding wires on the top of each pot. I'm considering just using my pre-wired control plate I have for another bass and just ordering another.
 
Focusing on the bridge pickup problem - check the wiring at the blend pot see if you've got it wired correctly.

Unless you're having hum or buzz issues, the bad grounds aren't likely the issue.

If you want to clean up the excess solder, I recommend some solder braid. I don't like the solder suckers but some do. If you aren't having a grounding problem, I'd leave it alone.
 
I am assuming that you are saying that you have to much solder on the lug and it rand down to the eyelet? If you are not removing the old solder from the lug before soldering the wire from the new pickup it is possible you have a cold solder joint. Go to Radio Shack and get a $10 solder sucker, I consider them a necessity.
 
Wow! that is a first! I've never seen a "solder shielded" pot before! :)

In the middle ages, metal smiths would cast lead shields to keep out evil hum spirits. The shields were never as crude as what you see here. As it turns out, many of these pots were defaced by the church, who believed that 60Hz hum was actually gift from the lord Leo Fender, and thus, it was dark sorcery to shield a bass.
 
In the middle ages, metal smiths would cast lead shields to keep out evil hum spirits. The shields were never as crude as what you see here. As it turns out, many of these pots were defaced by the church, who believed that 60Hz hum was actually gift from the lord Leo Fender, and thus, it was dark sorcery to shield a bass.

+1

You sir, are a magnificent bastard.
 
I was expecting something like this.

uQAOz7z.jpg

:hiding:

From a Strat that our guitarist bought very cheap.
The pots and wiring went straight in the bin, the switch worked perfectly after a good clean up and de-solder.

YIKE! If I did something like that, I'd spend a week in a hair shirt and self-flagellate for a month. I'm feeling a little woozy just looking at it.

In the OP's case you should get a solder-sucker and suck the extra solder off the tab - it may be shorting against the pot case. About 5 bucks. (I know the picture isn't the OP's bass.)

148_MED.jpg


Here's what a cavity should look like. It's an Aguilar OBP-3 I put in a BSD customer's Warrior. I replaced the Bartolini that was in it.

OBP-3-in-Warrior-TB_zps36bfad2e.jpg
 
YIKE! If I did something like that, I'd spend a week in a hair shirt and self-flagellate for a month. I'm feeling a little woozy just looking at it.

Here's what a cavity should look like. It's an Aguilar OBP-3 I put in a BSD customer's Warrior. I replaced the Bartolini that was in it.

OBP-3-in-Warrior-TB_zps36bfad2e.jpg

Come on Munji! Look at that cavity! Too pretty and sterile for a bass! Where's the "mojo"? As for me that "reliced" Strat cavity is the ONLY way to get serious tone!

:hiding: