Truss Rod Adjustment from Neck Heel- Which Way?

[Basvarken]

That may be the case 98% of the time, but unfortunately I discovered it's the reverse with Maruszczyk basses. I thought I was loosening (turning counterclockwise) and broke the rod by overtightening. I bought it new and was very pissed that there was no indication whatsoever that it's an outlier. This was pre-covid....not sure what they're doing now.

Never heard of that.
Most likely it was a double action truss rod? And you did not over-tighten it, but turned it counter clockwise beyond the max.

 

[Dirk Diggler]

FYI not every rod is adjustable lefty loosey, righty tighty.
Actually I have run into several over the years that were the exact opposite.
I think this is true with folks that make their own rods perhaps.

In any case any adjustment should be viewable from the bridge end looking up the fingerboard edge.

 

[andare]

Clockwise brings the action down, counterclockwise brings it back up, regardless of whether the adjustment is at the headstock or the body, unless you have a Maruszszyk bass, which is apparently the opposite (but listed in the documentation).

The relief, not the action. The action comes down as a result of less relief, usually, but it's important not to confuse the two adjustments cause they are different and have to be done in the right order.

Adjust the relief with the truss rod first and then set the action with the bridge saddles.

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

The relief, not the action. The action comes down as a result of less relief, usually, but it's important not to confuse the two adjustments cause they are different and have to be done in the right order.

Adjust the relief with the truss rod first and then set the action with the bridge saddles.

Yes. I like to think of it as already being well setup and adjusting for seasonal changes, so I am simplifying by jumping to the end result.

 

[Fun Size Nick]

I kinda hate that it's at the heel because I have to loosen the neck bolts and un-anchor the neck. So *another* question is, can a wheel be installed on a bass like mine, at the heel when there's already a Phillips-type nut in that location?

Thanks for your time, much appreciated.

This is largely a misconception, and usually unnecessary - with the occasional rare exception (early 50s Fenders with the squared off neck pocket.)

Thick of the adjustment rod similar to the more modern "spoke wheel".
On the vintage-style Fender truss rod nut - you have 4 separate slots in which to insert the "proper" tool. (which is NOT a standard slotted screwdriver)
At least one of those slots should be accessible at any given time.
The Right Tool for the job is a 3/16" cabinet style screwdriver. about $10 at Ace.

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/nb...-bass-journeyman.1664280/page-2#post-28816085

A big +1 to that, @J-Bass RMR! I use the method I describe here: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/vi...or-loosened-for-truss-rod-adjustment.1537666/