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Tweeterless Markbass combo!!!

#21
JimmyM said:
Yeah, their regular cabs have attenuators. Now that I've found out that 12" is so dark sounding, I think I'm just going to have to use the VLE to dull down the 5k-18k response. I'm afraid if I attenuate it that I'll lose all the 2k-5k that's not in the 12".
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You should try the LMII head (thats the same head thats in your combo isn't it?) into one of there cabs with a attenuator and try it both ways, using the VLE circuit and cutting the attenuator down and see what works best.
I still feel you will get better results using the attenuator dialed down.
 
#25
So I just got back from Barbados, and I actually tried the foam over the tweeter thing, and it worked pretty well. Well enough to give it a shot on the next gig I use it. But for the moment I'm all into this B-15N so I've been using it.
 
#26
JimmyM said:
I finally did it. I disconnected the tweeter and crossover from my Mini CMD121P. I did my first gig with it after a month and a half earlier tonight, and decided I just couldn't take it anymore. So I just pulled the tweeter and crossover out of the circuit when I got home. Dirt simple, too. All of a sudden I go from Marcus to Jamerson! I hope it doesn't void the warranty to do it, but I'm sorry...it's a wonderful big sounding little combo, but the only thing I never liked about it is the tweeter. I wouldn't have minded it if I could at least attenuate it down to a tolerable level, but now it's gone and I'm happy, at least on electric. I double on upright playing a lot of slap bass, and the tweeter probably helped get more slap, but then again, I didn't mind it while the combo was in the shop and I used my LM2 with a double baffle B-15N cab, so I think it should be fine.

Anyway, if Markbass ever does an updated combo, I have to say don't change a thing but please consider a tweeter attenuator or defeat switch. Would have made it a lot easier and more versatile for us old schoolers.
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Jimmy - do you know if the main cone speaker is fed thru a low pass filter or if it runs full range? I am guessing the crossover only filters the tweet but am not sure.

I had mine torn apart yesterday to install a Monacor HT-30 miniature horn tweeter which is cheap ($15) sounds good and hardly has any hiss compared to the stock piezo. I started a thread on this yesterday called Markbass Tweeter Upgrade. It requires a bit of dremel work but nothing major. I kept the piezo in my extension cab since there is an attenuator that works well for taming the tweet on that.

Anyway, after I got it all put back together I got the idea to run the main cone full range, but if somebody can confirm its already hooked up that way it will save me opening it up again.

Thanks!
 
#27
JimmyM said:
So I just got back from Barbados, and I actually tried the foam over the tweeter thing, and it worked pretty well. Well enough to give it a shot on the next gig I use it. But for the moment I'm all into this B-15N so I've been using it.
Click to expand...

I had a black sock stuffed in mine for a couple of years until I replaced the tweeter with a mini horn yesterday.
 
#29
Wow, zombie thread. Jimmy originally posted this in 2008. In Talkbass land that's like 100 different bass amps ago!

I'll second the HT-30 as a viable replacement tweeter for Markbass combos and even SWR cabs. I replaced the one in my Baby Baby Blue 110 combo and the sound is much improved.

With regards to the OP, the Markbass VLE control is an adjustable low pass filter wich could be adjusted until just past the point that the tweeter could be heard. I've done that a number of times when the tweeter woudn't help a particular tune live...
 
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#30
Doner Designs said:
Jimmy - do you know if the main cone speaker is fed thru a low pass filter or if it runs full range? I am guessing the crossover only filters the tweet but am not sure.

I had mine torn apart yesterday to install a Monacor HT-30 miniature horn tweeter which is cheap ($15) sounds good and hardly has any hiss compared to the stock piezo. I started a thread on this yesterday called Markbass Tweeter Upgrade. It requires a bit of dremel work but nothing major. I kept the piezo in my extension cab since there is an attenuator that works well for taming the tweet on that.

Anyway, after I got it all put back together I got the idea to run the main cone full range, but if somebody can confirm its already hooked up that way it will save me opening it up again.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I don't know, Steve. I do know that it had a very dark sound without the tweet and I put it back in the circuit. But I ended up selling it soon after this so I am a little fuzzy on details. Replacing that duff tweet is definitely a good thing, though.
 
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#31
JimmyM said:
I don't know, Steve. I do know that it had a very dark sound without the tweet and I put it back in the circuit. But I ended up selling it soon after this so I am a little fuzzy on details. Replacing that duff tweet is definitely a good thing, though.
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Thanks. I emailed Markbass. Will report back if they respond.
 
#35
Doner Designs said:
Monacor HT-30. $15 online. Needs a little dremel work to fit but nothing major. Worth the effort. Nice tone, lower output and much lower hiss vs stock.
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Thanks. Still own and use my old 2006 cmd12p combo. Since replacing the original tweeter had no problems but have no objection to try something different. Dremel work to the tweeter itself or the cabinet?
 
#36
Nenor said:
Thanks. Still own and use my old 2006 cmd12p combo. Since replacing the original tweeter had no problems but have no objection to try something different. Dremel work to the tweeter itself or the cabinet?
Click to expand...

It takes some dremel work on both, but nothing major. The more you do on the tweet the less you have to do on the cab. The cab mod is minor enough that the stock tweeter is still a perfect (but a bit looser) fit while the HT-30 is tight. If you are careful you can make the new one look factory installed and still go back to the original.
 
#37
I was going to congratulate Jimmy on being a brave and wise man for loosing the tweeter until I saw this was a zombie thread! :laugh:

As to the woof-er being low passed or not, wouldn't that be pretty easy tell from looking at the crossover (if it is actually a crossover or just a high pass network)?
 
#38
Jeff Scott said:
I was going to congratulate Jimmy on being a brave and wise man for loosing the tweeter until I saw this was a zombie thread! :laugh:

As to the woof-er being low passed or not, wouldn't that be pretty easy tell from looking at the crossover (if it is actually a crossover or just a high pass network)?
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Well zombies are popular these days, especially this time of year. :)

Yes on taking a look, but I was trying to avoid taking it apart again, though in hindsight I probably could have done that faster than trying to find out on talkbass (but the conversation is fun).

Consensus seems to be that its just a high pass, but I have to know (just because), so will probably crack it open again next weekend.

The amp goes to the crossover board and both speakers connect to the board, but I still think it may be a pass thru to the woofer. The board contains both a cap and a choke, but somebody mentioned that better quality high pass filters have a choke so its not necessarily being used for low pass.
 
#39
Doner Designs said:
It takes some dremel work on both, but nothing major. The more you do on the tweet the less you have to do on the cab. The cab mod is minor enough that the stock tweeter is still a perfect (but a bit looser) fit while the HT-30 is tight. If you are careful you can make the new one look factory installed and still go back to the original.
Click to expand...
Thanks again! I'll look into it.
 
#40
A response from Markbass....

Hi Steve,
Thanks for writing and for your interest in Markbass.
The 12” speaker receives the full range input signal and then a passive crossover filter only for the tweeter.
Best regards.
Riccardo

Riccardo Damiani
Mark World Artist Relations
Online Customer Service
PARSEK SRL
Via Po, 52
66020 San Giovanni Teatino (CH) ITALY
 

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