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I noticed all the same things so I have been holding out hope. Unfortunately the Reverb messages have gone unanswered, which is surprising given the reviews that mention that they are at the very least communicative, except for one recent review which stated that, they never heard from the seller and they never shipped the parts.I have had times when a seller shipped merchandise but failed to note it on Reverb or Ebay. It sucks when a seller does not respond to emails but there is a chance the tuners have been shipped.
I just tried to find a phone number for your seller but had no luck. The only way I see to contact them is through a Reverb message. The seller does have good feedback so hopefully the tuners have been shipped.
Good to know. I'll have to watch for that and move back to a light set at the first sign of bowing or twisting. I don't know about quantitative tension measurements, but I chose the GHS Precision Flats because they were rated as 'stiff' in a comparison chart. I don't know if they achieve that with tension or by the construction of the string. I was hoping it was by the string construction/material. I'll be religion about having my tech check it out every 6 months instead of once a year or whenever I change something. This particular neck is a Precision style. So I'm more worried about twisting than bowing. I'll pay attention to the relief on the D and G side.I would never use a 055-105 set on any bass that I cared anything about.
I would look for a tension chart for those strings, if available. Some brands provide tension measurements, D'addario for example, and they're very helpful! IME, for most brands of strings, a 55-105 set would have much greater tension from the G than from the E. I would guess a 055 flatwound G would pull over 60 pounds or more, while the 105 E would be around 40 pounds. I am anal about stuff like this, having bought several basses online that arrived with twisted necks. And, I've seen many more that exhibit more relief on the treble side than under the E string, which is a minor form of twisting. It's always the treble side of the neck that bows more due to the fact that for nearly 70 years now, electric bass string sets have been predominantly out of balance tension-wise, with considerably more force being exerted by the D and G strings, compared to the E and A.
For comparison, and to show how out of whack a 055-105 set is, the comparable D'addario balanced tension set pairs a 120 E with a 050 G.
The 'other' bass (Foundation S with Dimarzio PJ), with the Daddarios XL230 Nickel Rounds, is so that I can keep them low without smacking around on frets or pickups. I wanted everything as similar to the flatwound bass as possible, except round wound. This one is really hot and has great attack. I don't pop and slap so I don't need to get under the strings. But I do need to keep them off the hardware. More mass, less movement was the idea. I'll keep an eye out for the same issues you warned about.Good to know. I'll have to watch for that and move back to a light set at the first sign of bowing or twisting. I don't know about quantitative tension measurements, but I chose the GHS Precision Flats because they were rated as 'stiff' in a comparison chart. I don't know if they achieve that with tension or by the construction of the string. I was hoping it was by the string construction/material. I'll be religion about having my tech check it out every 6 months instead of once a year or whenever I change something. This particular neck is a Precision style. So I'm more worried about twisting than bowing. I'll pay attention to the relief on the D and G side.
Just try these... please...once... D'Addario EXL170BT Balanced Tension 45-107 Long Scale Electric Bass | eBayThe 'other' bass (Foundation S with Dimarzio PJ), with the Daddarios XL230 Nickel Rounds, is so that I can keep them low without smacking around on frets or pickups. I wanted everything as similar to the flatwound bass as possible, except round wound. This one is really hot and has great attack. I don't pop and slap so I don't need to get under the strings. But I do need to keep them off the hardware. More mass, less movement was the idea. I'll keep an eye out for the same issues you warned about.
Do they come in flats?Just try these... please...once... D'Addario EXL170BT Balanced Tension 45-107 Long Scale Electric Bass | eBay
Consider this: music is vibrations. Let the strings move. Playing super stiff strings just might be choking off all the good things.
Just sending you the seller's details and phone number via PM now.I have received no response from the seller and the parts still don't show as shipped.
True enough. But at this point in the chain I think we're dealing with the conversion of the movement in a magnetic field into a signal. More movement might indeed be preferred. But more magnetic material might also do the trick. I don't know the formula. Usually velocity wins over mass in these things. More magnetically reactive material would also help. Maybe there's a EE out here that can explain all the Gauss and stuff.Just try these... please...once... D'Addario EXL170BT Balanced Tension 45-107 Long Scale Electric Bass | eBay
Consider this: music is vibrations. Let the strings move. Playing super stiff strings just might be choking off all the good things.
Sounds very interesting!! I have several candidates for similar builds: a T-40 and a T-45 that are completely disassembled, a set of SF pickups, and at least 2 complete Foundations that I wouldn’t mind Franken-up, or F-ing up (depends on how you view things). So, I’ll be watching the replies.OK, so I have a FrankenPeavey project in the works. I have been sitting on a fully loaded, rosewood fingerboard T45 neck and a single good (and another weak) Super Ferrite for over a year. Seems like a waste of good parts, but couldn't get rid of them.
Well, found a loaded, black 87 Foundation project body (complete, with no pickups). It arrived, I cleaned it up, attached the neck, dropped in the SFs, strung and set it up and is great all around. Originally was going to just install the neck Super Ferrite and rock this thing like a pre-57/single coil P bass, but then found an older toaster T40 pickup, which is on the way, along with a pickup ring from Frets On The Net.
I have never mixed T40/45 pickups with Super Ferrites, can anyone else chime in on this? I tend to play on the neck pickup soloed or in a 50/50 blend with the bridge pickup. Seems that the T40 pickup has a similar output to a P pickup in series mode and a vintage J pickup in split mode. Since this is the older version, I gather that's is not quite as aggressive as the later blade version. The Super Ferrites seem just a touch hotter than a vintage wound J pickup, so I feel they will match up well. I'm going to have a push/pull pot do the split, as one of the original volume pots is pretty shot. If I run into phase or RW/RP hum cancel issues, I know of another Super Ferrite with the opposite polarity to my good one I could get, if so desired.
My primary decision is whether to rout the T40 pickup for bridge or neck position. I already have an Ibanez RB630 bass modded as a virtual T45 with a blade T40 pickup in the Precision sweet spot, so I am leaning towards the bridge location for the T40 pickup in this build, for variety.
If the T40 pickup is to be in the bridge position, I would rout out towards the neck, putting the rear coil in the current space reserved for the Super Ferrite-pretty much putting the coils in the 60s and 70s J locations. Would play with the wiring phase so the bridge side coil activates in single coil mode. This will have that J/MM look with a Meridian flair.
If in the neck position, I would rout out towards the bridge, with the front coil in the current SF rout-putting is right in the P sweet spot. Also would play with the wiring phase so the neck side coil activates in single coil mode. This would be an interesting P/J variant. A T/SF if you will....
I welcome any opinions or experiences with pickup choice and location.
While waiting on the T40 pickup/ring/screws to arrive, I installed the good SF in the neck, the weak one in the bridge. Other than the soloed bridge tone being a little anemic, it works and sounds pretty good, as it still gets the two pickup scoop tones. Sprayed the pots again and they all work great! Now I think I'll just do the spin-a-split on the T40 pickup since this bass has the factory S taper tone control already in place.Sounds very interesting!! I have several candidates for similar builds: a T-40 and a T-45 that are completely disassembled, a set of SF pickups, and at least 2 complete Foundations that I wouldn’t mind Franken-up, or F-ing up (depends on how you view things). So, I’ll be watching the replies.
Pics?While waiting on the T40 pickup/ring/screws to arrive, I installed the good SF in the neck, the weak one in the bridge. Other than the soloed bridge tone being a little anemic, it works and sounds pretty good, as it still gets the two pickup scoop tones. Sprayed the pots again and they all work great! Now I think I'll just do the spin-a-split on the T40 pickup since this bass has the factory S taper tone control already in place.
Pretty much decided that I will put the T40 pickup in the bridge position. The SF in the neck sounds so big! Perhaps a thicker sounding pickup in the bridge spot will inspire me to use it more. I know I don't solo the bridge SF on my Foundation as it's pretty bright.
Certainly! Here's the 1st generation/current state/before shots.Pics?