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U.S. Peavey Club

#18,521
kodiakblair said:
This fella reckons the design is the problem.




BTW was this recent Fury Mike's red one ?
Click to expand...


This seems to describe the problem pretty well. And yes it's Mike's old one. It's a lovely bass that I'd really like to get going.

JEDI BASS said:
Should you level? At this point, no.

A general rule is that buzzing above the 12th fret is due to bridge saddles being too low. Buzz lower down on the neck... you can assume is relief related. There are other factors, but I’d need the neck in hand. If the action is too high once you’ve gotten the relief where it should be, the neck tilt is correct, and saddle height raised to where the buzz goes away... then you should could consider fret leveling.
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I set the relief to 15 thousandth of an inch at the 7th fret with the string capod at the first fret and near the body. Then I've got a lot of travel with the saddles but can't lower them really at all without the buzzing and choking out starting at about the 14th fret. To violently change from imperial to metric, I can't get the action any lower than about 2.75mm at the 12th fret.
 
#18,523
UncleBalsamic said:
This seems to describe the problem pretty well. And yes it's Mike's old one. It's a lovely bass that I'd really like to get going.



I set the relief to 15 thousandth of an inch at the 7th fret with the string capod at the first fret and near the body. Then I've got a lot of travel with the saddles but can't lower them really at all without the buzzing and choking out starting at about the 14th fret. To violently change from imperial to metric, I can't get the action any lower than about 2.75mm at the 12th fret.
Click to expand...

Can't seem to edit this for some reason, but I actually can't get the action below 3.25mm
 
#18,525
Need some help, Peavey brothers. I have a custom Cirrus that I bought back in the summer. The action was high, but the truss nut turned fine so I figured I'd adjust it down the road and fix the problem. I took the bass to my luthier to have a complete setup done.

Unfortunately, after a couple weeks of adjusting the truss system he could not get the bow out of the neck. He was able to get the action a little lower, but not where it needs to be. He mentioned that the bow has probably been there a long time and because it was never properly setup the bow is permanent. This bass is absolutely gorgeous and even with the high action it plays well and sounds fantastic, but it's a lot of work playing it.

With all that said, can anyone give me some advice? I've heard of a place in Texas that works on necks but I don't know anything about them. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
 
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#18,526
;)
GOT KNOBS?
IMG_20200926_113622810.jpg
 
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#18,527
jimmyfwl said:
Need some help, Peavey brothers. I have a custom Cirrus that I bought back in the summer. The action was high, but the truss nut turned fine so I figured I'd adjust it down the road and fix the problem. I took the bass to my luthier to have a complete setup done.

Unfortunately, after a couple weeks of adjusting the truss system he could not get the bow out of the neck. He was able to get the action a little lower, but not where it needs to be. He mentioned that the bow has probably been there a long time and because it was never properly setup the bow is permanent. This bass is absolutely gorgeous and even with the high action it plays well and sounds fantastic, but it's a lot of work playing it.

With all that said, can anyone give me some advice? I've heard of a place in Texas that works on necks but I don't know anything about them. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
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I’ve heard of luthiers using heat treatments while clamping the neck to correct wood problems.
Also, Are you using high tension strings? A lower tension set might help the situation somewhat.
 
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#18,529
@jimmyfwl not to disparage your repair tech but any "Luthier" would know how to properly adjust your bass neck or at the very least would know this very simple and effective technique.



If your bass needs more than this then you need a real luthier = someone who can take pieces of wood and make a musical instrument.
 
#18,530
bassbrad said:
@jimmyfwl not to disparage your repair tech but any "Luthier" would know how to properly adjust your bass neck or at the very least would know this very simple and effective technique.



If your bass needs more than this then you need a real luthier = someone who can take pieces of wood and make a musical instrument.
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He has over 20 years experience. He adjusted the truss rod several times over a space of many days with no luck. I’m confident he did all he could. I hope to find someone to work on the neck.
 
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#18,531
jimmyfwl said:
He has over 20 years experience. He adjusted the truss rod several times over a space of many days with no luck. I’m confident he did all he could. I hope to find someone to work on the neck.
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You're talking about Warpedneck.com. He uses a heat treatment process along with clamping. I sent a neck from a 1982 G&L L2KE to him a few years ago. It had a bad ski Slope and a twist. He was able to get it out and the bass has held ever since. 4 years or so now. Only cost me about 100.00 plus the shipping. Give them a call.
 
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#18,532
bassbrad said:
@jimmyfwl not to disparage your repair tech but any "Luthier" would know how to properly adjust your bass neck or at the very least would know this very simple and effective technique.



If your bass needs more than this then you need a real luthier = someone who can take pieces of wood and make a musical instrument.
Click to expand...

A lot of assumptions made. Watch Fodera’s setup videos where he tightens the truss with full string tension on the neck. I’ve also watched other builders of $4k+ basses do the same.

But, I never tighten a truss under string tension, and I often assist by manually putting a back bow in while tightening. Anyways... as with everything on TB, opinions differ greatly. I’d at least ask if the luthier tried to assist the truss with added back bow before tightening.
 
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#18,533
JEDI BASS said:
A lot of assumptions made. Watch Fodera’s setup videos where he tightens the truss with full string tension on the neck. I’ve also watched other builders of $4k+ basses do the same.

But, I never tighten a truss under string tension, and I often assist by manually putting a back bow in while tightening. Anyways... as with everything on TB, opinions differ greatly. I’d at least ask if the luthier tried to assist the truss with added back bow before tightening.
Click to expand...

Yup, also keep in mind the old Fenders use single action truss rods whereas new basses typically use dual action truss rods. The "single" "dual" thing sounds like a minor change, but in reality they work entirely differently and put different forces on the neck. The clamp jig that Dan builds works basically like a dual action rod.

On my basses with dual action rods, where I know the condition of the neck and rod, I almost always make small adjustments with full string tension. For bigger changes I take off string tension. As @JEDI BASS points out, there are many opinions.
 
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#18,534
jimmyfwl said:
He has over 20 years experience. He adjusted the truss rod several times over a space of many days with no luck. I’m confident he did all he could. I hope to find someone to work on the neck.
Click to expand...
You asked I answered based on my 30 years in the business, knowledge and skills gained. My opinion is that any competent tech should be able to correct the bowed neck with the technique in the video, simple tools and time as long as the truss rod operates correctly and the neck is not twisted. Your "luthier" should be up to the task after 20 years.

@Jeff Siddall & @JEDI BASS I am fully aware of the modern double action truss rods Peavey uses and stand by the validity of using this technique on neck through basses that need major neck adjustment as I have done it many times on my own as well as customer instruments.

Most recently I used this technique to correct the extreme action on a DynaBass Unity LTD that was set up with Heatvy strings when I switched to a Light set. Took about a week of making adjustments every day and letting it settle.
 
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#18,536
TinIndian said:
You're talking about Warpedneck.com. He uses a heat treatment process along with clamping. I sent a neck from a 1982 G&L L2KE to him a few years ago. It had a bad ski Slope and a twist. He was able to get it out and the bass has held ever since. 4 years or so now. Only cost me about 100.00 plus the shipping. Give them a call.
Click to expand...
Thanks! That’s what I needed to know. Let’s hope he can do the same for neck thru Cirrus.
 
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