Ultra-simple bridge idea for ya'll...

[rudy4444]

Here's a bridge that I've been using on some unique electric guitars that I've been putting together lately. I've been thinking about a build topics using this for a bridge, but nothing wrong if someone else wants to give it a try.

Here it is shown as a 6 string bridge, but there's no reason it wouldn't work as a 4 string bass bridge with a little modification. All the specific details of how to make them is in my "Jagsquire" build topic on the Telecaster forum, but there's no rocket science involved.

It's deceptively simple to make and super easy to modify in any way for a specific use.

 

[bholder]

Intonation adjustments are a bit tricky.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Yeah, “approximate” isn’t really ideal for intonation. The next simplest is something like a Hofner, but even that has some movable fret stock pieces that get you in the ballpark. You could file some intonation takeoff points into it, but it would probably have to be a wider saddle piece. Might work well enough on a fretless.

 

[brianrost]

Are you using an acoustic guitar saddle?

 

[ardgedee]

Yeah, “approximate” isn’t really ideal for intonation. The next simplest is something like a Hofner, but even that has some movable fret stock pieces that get you in the ballpark. You could file some intonation takeoff points into it, but it would probably have to be a wider saddle piece. Might work well enough on a fretless.

I like the NS Design bass bridge:

It looks like a floating bridge but it's mounted on posts, has a limited amount of forward-back and up-down range. The saddle is a big bar so intonation is probably going to suck if you mix string types or have really high action or something, but since either end moves independently you have more variety in positions than it looks.

The bar is even curved rather than straight, I assume Ned had done his research on that...

...of course we're not talking about an ultra-simple bridge any more. I mean, simple for the user but pretty complicated for the builder!

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Here's a bridge that I've been using on some unique electric guitars that I've been putting together lately. I've been thinking about a build topics using this for a bridge, but nothing wrong if someone else wants to give it a try.

Here it is shown as a 6 string bridge, but there's no reason it wouldn't work as a 4 string bass bridge with a little modification. All the specific details of how to make them is in my "Jagsquire" build topic on the Telecaster forum, but there's no rocket science involved.

It's deceptively simple to make and super easy to modify in any way for a specific use.

Simple and cool! For an electric bass version, I'd make the saddle from a bar of 1/4" square aluminum. Saw the slot 1/4" wide x 1/8" deep. Set the angle of the slot to get the approximate intonation positions, then do "angle filing" at each string notch to fine-tune the intonation of each string.

And drill it for 5 screws to attach it to the body.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Another option would be to string up the two outside strings before the saddle slot is cut, put a temporary saddle on top of the base and use it to intonate the E and e or E and G or whatever and mark the base off of that then cut the slot and make up the permanent saddle.

 

[rudy4444]

Another option would be to string up the two outside strings before the saddle slot is cut, put a temporary saddle on top of the base and use it to intonate the E and e or E and G or whatever and mark the base off of that then cut the slot and make up the permanent saddle.

You have the process exactly right!

The saddle slot position and slant are marked on the bridge blank and the slot is cut using a small block of wood that positions the bridge block to be cut at the correct angle when passed over a 1/8" carbide bit in a table mounted router.

I've found it to work exceedingly well for steel and nylon strung guitar, and I'd have no qualms about setting intonation this way on a bass.

Making the bridge block is so easy it's not a big deal to make another if intonation somehow needs to be addressed.

 

[rudy4444]

Simple and cool! For an electric bass version, I'd make the saddle from a bar of 1/4" square aluminum. Saw the slot 1/4" wide x 1/8" deep. Set the angle of the slot to get the approximate intonation positions, then do "angle filing" at each string notch to fine-tune the intonation of each string.

And drill it for 5 screws to attach it to the body.

I think you're following the general concept and idea very well.

My thought was to use a 1/4" wide bone blank that would permit the stopping point of the string to be shifted forward or to the rear slightly for those who feel the need to micro-adjust intonation.

In actual practice I've found no need to adjust the pre-set intonation for my 6 string guitars, and they should in theory have a greater need for that than a bass.

As long as reasonable care is used in positioning the saddle there are definitely advantages to using 1/8" wide material.

First, if the slot is cut just a bit deeper then a standard 1/8" undersaddle piezo transducer can be installed. This can be OK, and I have one of these guitars that has nylon strings, so the piezo is useful for that. I've also found that a piezo undersaddle actually works pretty well for bass, but that's a discussion for another time.

Second, it's very easy to change "action" by calculating amount of change needed, loosening strings, and sliding the old saddle out and sliding a newly cut one into place.

Third, it's cheaper.

The "five screw attachment" is an interesting idea, but there's secret sauce to this design.

If you look carefully you can see the 3/4" plugs that cover the flanges of two #10-32 tee nuts. The bridge block is passed over a bit on the router table to create a 3/8" by 3/8" lip around the outer perimeter of the bridge block. This drops into a matching cavity routed into the top and firmly locks the block in position. The majority of string tension is held by the front lip as it bears against the body mortise.

Two #10-32 stainless steel pan head machine screws are inserted from the rear of the body to lock the bridge in place. The force vectors presented by the strings have only a very small amount of force applied in a direction that works to lift the bridge out of its mortise.

 

[rudy4444]

Are you using an acoustic guitar saddle?

I'm using a 1/8" bone saddle blank cuz I have a bin of them available. Further thoughts on why it might be a good idea in my answer to Bruce's post.

 

[rudy4444]

Intonation adjustments are a bit tricky.

No need if you pre-set the intonation, and simple to make a new bridge block if you find it needs tweaking later.

 

[bholder]

No need if you pre-set the intonation, and simple to make a new bridge block if you find it needs tweaking later.

Different string types require different intonation points, that seems like a lot of work for a string change...But I suppose viable if you don't mind the effort.

 

[rudy4444]

Different string types require different intonation points, that seems like a lot of work for a string change...But I suppose viable if you don't mind the effort.

I get that, but I've been playing for 60 years and I have solid choices for nylon strings, steel strings, and bass strings. I'm playing short scale Labella black tapes and don't have any desire to use anything else.

Obviously this design isn't something that is going to be widely loved, particularly because of the basic fixed nature of intonation and string height. It's really aimed at someone who is shooting for "ultra-simple", as the topic title suggests.

I'm putting a lot of miles on my electrics that use this design and I totally love the simplicity and comfort, YMMV of course.

 

[bholder]

I get that, but I've been playing for 60 years and I have solid choices for nylon strings, steel strings, and bass strings. I'm playing short scale Labella black tapes and don't have any desire to use anything else.

Obviously this design isn't something that is going to be widely loved, particularly because of the basic fixed nature of intonation and string height. It's really aimed at someone who is shooting for "ultra-simple", as the topic title suggests.

I'm putting a lot of miles on my electrics that use this design and I totally love the simplicity and comfort, YMMV of course.

Ok, I get it, it works if you've really settled on that one setup. (Not for me, I fiddle too much hehe, but that's just me...)

 

[MYLOWFREQ]

I think the simplest functional bridge is the classic bent fender-like bridges with individual saddles. I agree that it looks nice, but I'd rather prefer to be intonated well.

 

[ole Jason]

Unpopular opinion ahead... I primarily play archtop and Selmer style guitars with fixed intonation bridges and while it's true the intonation is somewhat compromised in some ranges on the instrument I find it to be "good enough" for most conventional styles of playing. I know we all like the idea of having perfect intonation on every string and every fret but in actual practice I'm not convinced it is really all that necessary.

I also have a bass with a floating bridge. Again, that bass will never have perfect intonation across the entire neck but I've never found it to be an issue.

 

[brianrost]

I’ve found that both the NS Radius and Danelectro single saddle bridge designs work a lot better than you’d think.

The intonation of my Radius is dead-on.

The Dano is clumsy because tightening the wood saddle down requires taking the darn bridge off…the screw is on the bottom of the bridge plate. As long as there’s a little wiggle room for the saddle, I can get the intonation right. Then again, I haven’t changed strings since 1978 but it still intonates properly at the 12th fret.

I’ve always wondered though, how are classical guitars intonated?

 

[Level5wizard]

Some one get Jen Parker in here and knock some heads!

 

[Koshchei]

Unpopular opinion, sadly: while nice from a "baroque" aesthetic perspective, this bridge/tail is an over-thought less functional solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

- For solid bodies, a $20 stamped Fender-style or ToM is more functional and way less work to install.
- For hollow bodies, the mass is too high, the footprint too large, and it's too close to the tail to get enough loading onto the belly for good energy transfer and speaking speed.

 

[rudy4444]

Unpopular opinion, sadly: while nice from a "baroque" aesthetic perspective, this bridge/tail is an over-thought less functional solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.

- For solid bodies, a $20 stamped Fender-style or ToM is more functional and way less work to install.
- For hollow bodies, the mass is too high, the footprint too large, and it's too close to the tail to get enough loading onto the belly for good energy transfer and speaking speed.

I don't see your opinion as being "unpopular" at all.

...but you end up with a bass with a stamped Fender-style or ToM bridge...

I do enjoy the process of making my own "hardware", and I'm not really trying to solve any problem. If we all buy cheap import parts and "assemble" a bass then we haven't applied any logical thought or creative energy to the process. A person might as well buy a $99 Glarry off Amazon.

I made no suggestion that anyone use this design for anything other than a solid body. I hope no one misunderstood my intention. I'm actually utilizing this design on "pancake" bodies made from dirt cheap construction lumber.