JacksonAmpworks said:
Updated Spec Sheet:
01.) 6SL7 front end Channel 1
Channel 1 Controls
Volume
Treble
Bass
Ultra-Lo and Ultra-Hi Switches
Tone Stack Bypass
02.) 12AX7 front end Channel 2
Channel 2 Controls
Volume
Treble
Bass
Ultra-Lo and Ultra-Hi Switches
Tone Stack Bypass
Master
03.) 6550/KT88 power tubes (6x @ 300W)
04.) Resonance and Presence controls (Global)
05.) Direct Out (XLR) - Selectable PREAMP (post FX Loop) or SPEAKER Tap
06.) Tube Buffered FX Loop
07.) Fixed Biased with Bias Meter
08.) 2-4-8 Ohm Selector Switch
09.) Speakon Connectors (1/4" and Speakon)
10.) 100W/200W/300W Switch
11.) Cathode Disconnect Standby (silent recording!)
12.) Footswitchable FX Loop New Addition!
Sorry I'm late to this conversation...I've been visiting my Mom, and she lives in the land of dial-up, so no internerd for me for a week...and see what I miss?
I'm a regularly gigging musician, tube amp player (bass and guitar) and could see my way to spending that kind of cash on an amp...but I'd want a stripped down version of these specs. The specs for 03-through-12 seem good to me though.
I don't use overdrive, and haven't for 20 years of playing, so I'd only need one channel. I want to keep my sound warm and full and clean...so 300w is right.
I've got to be honest, with space and transport concerns, not having a rackmount version would be a deal killer for me, especially since I always use a rack tuner into the loop on stage. I'd take extra depth and maybe a 4 space face to keep it in a road amp with a tuner and all wired up to plug-and-play. I also ask for reasonably even weight distribution for loading...which would help to protect against load-in/out mishaps. I would think a rack mount version would also help keep weight down.
I'd also wish for 2 fans...one for each end of the amp to make for even airflow across the tubes. In a hot club or outdoor show when a tube amp may be powered on for 5 hours or more hot tubes just destroy good clean tube tone.
I'd like the switch for the Pre/Post DI to be on the front, but the DI on the rear...so I don't have to fumble around in the half-dark in the back of the amp when I've got my bass on and space is tight and I'm in a rush, etc.
Having easy access to the tubes for 'in case of' situations is a consideration, as is having the tubes work in pairs...so if one goes it drops wattage without losing your amp altogether.
I'll be interested to see how this comes out...there are more than a few people here who have no problem on spending 2-6K on a bass, not to mention amps, cabs and such. I see no reason that this wouldn't be a viable situation.