As far as I know, GT uses a rating system that goes from 1-10. So if all three sets have a rating of 7, you should be good to go.
My guess is the three letters are the initials of the person who tested/matched the tubes.
Back in the day the labels were hand written:
The AD200 has an internal bias adjustment. Factory bias is surprising cold at 18-22mA per tube. The plate voltage reading I found is 675V. 22mA at 675V plate is about 42% dissipation (this is assuming a 35W tube). There may be a good reason for running the bias this cold, so I would not get too carried away with increasing the current.
The schematic shows a 1ohm 3W bias sense resistor on each cathode. But I found a thread that says many amps have a jumper in place of the resistor. Ref:
Orange AD200B bias - Music Electronics Forum (music-electronics-forum.com)
The schematic also shows test points for each tube, which are tied to pin 8 of the tube socket. I have a gut shot of the amp, but I can't tell if the TPs are actually labeled on the board. To be honest you probably should measure across the resistor, rather than from ground to the test point. Apparently, per the thread linked above, the fuses can skew the readings a bit.
Confirm the value of bias sense resistors before setting the bias. If the resistors are 1 ohm adjust for 18-22mV. If the amp has jumpers in place of the resistors, you need a set of bias probes to measure the current, unless you are comfortable with the shunt method, which I don't recommend due to safety concerns.
Of course, some of the tubes will pull a little more current, and some will pull a little less. You may be able to sort the tubes in a different order to get better current matching.
Good luck!