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Unimpressed with my GK

#42
I've got new strings. They are medium weight so they cope fine with being tuned down to C. The 5 string basses tune down to B, so I don't see why C is such a hard thing to imagine. I get the same punch as when tuned to E with light strings.

I vary the input to suit the song i'm playing. If i want more grit, i turn it up. The clip light is stupidly before the input so I don't know if i'm clipping the preamp or not...

I haven't gigged this amp yet and I don't think I will, I've only been playing it at 8ohms and I have no intention trying it at 4ohms unless I have a fire extinguisher nearby. It belches out hot air like there's no tomorrow...
 
#43
jjl5590 said:
I've got new strings. They are medium weight so they cope fine with being tuned down to C. The 5 string basses tune down to B, so I don't see why C is such a hard thing to imagine. I get the same punch as when tuned to E with light strings.

I vary the input to suit the song i'm playing. If i want more grit, i turn it up. The clip light is stupidly before the input so I don't know if i'm clipping the preamp or not...

I haven't gigged this amp yet and I don't think I will, I've only been playing it at 8ohms and I have no intention trying it at 4ohms unless I have a fire extinguisher nearby. It belches out hot air like there's no tomorrow...
Click to expand...

Get a tech to check it out mate - seriously...I've run mine hard at 4ohms, and it blows out some warm air, but nothing that make me worry about it overheating.

I'm also surprised by all the sterile/clean comments...i'm finding with my thumb nt5, i've gotta keep the input volume at 10 oclock or lower, and boost at around 12 or lower to keep the amp from distorting on the low B. I've had to lower the pickups further than normal, but still getting a bit of distortion when really digging in, and yes its a fresh battery in the bass. Any ideas?
 
#44
jjl5590 said:
I've got new strings. They are medium weight so they cope fine with being tuned down to C. The 5 string basses tune down to B, so I don't see why C is such a hard thing to imagine. I get the same punch as when tuned to E with light strings.

I vary the input to suit the song i'm playing. If i want more grit, i turn it up. The clip light is stupidly before the input so I don't know if i'm clipping the preamp or not...

I haven't gigged this amp yet and I don't think I will, I've only been playing it at 8ohms and I have no intention trying it at 4ohms unless I have a fire extinguisher nearby. It belches out hot air like there's no tomorrow...
Click to expand...

Once again...... RTM!!! Many amp mfg'ers run a preamp gain instead of input gain. Keep the vol (preamp gain) below 11:00, and you'll be fine..... and you really need to get it in to be looked at. Either that, or sell it and put it out of your misery.
 
#45
I once owned a 1001RB2 and played it at outdoor festival gigs. One gig I had the amp a little over half way up in volume. It was super loud on stage but stayed clean. If you need some grit with a GK your better off with a 700rb2, an 800rb, or a 400rb.

As far as smoke coming out of the head, it must have a flaw.
 
#46
jjl5590 said:
Hiya,

I just bought a used GK 1001RB-II for £320, and it sounds exactly the same as my Warwick Profet 3.2 that I am currently using, although it is much louder.

I am disapointed there is no compressor on it. I also fail to understand why the clip light is before the gain, thats just silly.

My tuning is C-F-A#-D#. I cannot get any "GK Growl" using the boost knob, just an increase in volume. Maybe my tuning is too low?

Like I said, it sounds exactly like my Warwick amp, but its £400 more expensive!
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Not for nothing... but... you bought this amp USED.

I'm curious to know... how do you know that this amp is in perfect condition and that there is not something malfunctioning?
 
#50
Someone sold it to you with a bad fan and maybe the bias "played" with. All electronics produce heat as a waste product, the control of the amount of waste heat so it can do the work intended is the key.
It worked when they sold it to you, but not "perfectly fine". It just works. :)
 
#51
jjl5590 said:
What do you mean by "put this here and set this there, you will get sterility"? How else are you meant to set your EQ?

I have my bass at 2 o'clock, low-mid at 11 o'clock, hi-mid at 4 o'clock and high at 12 o'clock.

What am I doing wrong?
Click to expand...

Set the input level until you get an occaisional flash. Leave the EQ flat and use the Contour to get as close to your sound as you can. Then use the EQ to fine adjust - to get to your tone. Boost as appropriate from a grind perspective and set overall volume with the Master.

That hi-mid at 4:00 is sort of excessive - I mean if you dig the tone - then it's perfect but it is unusually hi IME. To me it indicates that maybe the GK & the Warwick cabs aren't a great match - or the strings on your bass are dead as door nails ...

Speaking of bass - what bass are you using, what string. If it's active are you leaving it flat or setting some EQ there ? Is there EQ happening via some pedal ?

IME - when making major chancges to my rig - new cab's, different head, active to passive basses, new pedal, etc ... there is a learning curve.

Far as the heat thing goes, I played an oiutside winery date a couple of years ago. In the Washington State high desert. Temps were in the 100 to 110 range for all of a 5 hour date - man did I feel wrung out after ... Beautiful setting though. My GK was running at 4 ohms into a Bag End 2x10. Moderate Blues band volume with un-mic'ed drums. Guitarist has a 30 watt DR Z 4x10. I don't recall the fan coming on though I wouldn't have heard it anyway... the amp was fine all day ...

Just a thought, are the Warwick cab's 8 ohms ? The GK will run - for a while at lower than 4 ohms but it will get hot. Very hot and eventually it will smoke ... You might consider hitting those cab's with a meter and seeing what their impedance really is.
 
#52
B-string said:
Someone sold it to you with a bad fan and maybe the bias "played" with. All electronics produce heat as a waste product, the control of the amount of waste heat so it can do the work intended is the key.
It worked when they sold it to you, but not "perfectly fine". It just works. :)
Click to expand...
My warwick profet 3.2 amp is 300W at 4 ohms, and that was ALWAYS ice cold - never EVER got the slightest bit warm. The fan never once came on in 4 years, and the heatsink never got hot. is the heat transition from 300W to 700W really that great?
 
#53
No. But what a bunch of folks here are trying to tell you is... there's a pretty good chance that the used amp you purchased probably has some issue. It's not in perfect working order.

The Gallien Krueger RB line of amps are top shelf pro grade in every sense. Period. It can be argued that the distinctive sound of the brand is not for everyone, but these amps are designed and built to be used and abused by a day in and day out professional tour/gig schedule. The design has been around a long time and is considered for good reason to be about as bullet proof as a professional piece of equipment can be.

Again.... there's a reasonable chance the used amp you purchased probably has some issue. Rather than bash a very respectable line, how about you alter your attitude and let us help you.
 
#54
Anarchyok said:
Get a tech to check it out mate - seriously...I've run mine hard at 4ohms, and it blows out some warm air, but nothing that make me worry about it overheating.
Click to expand...

Quoting myself - go and get it checked by a tech. Please.

You've started many threads on TB concerning the purchasing of this amp. We've all told you what you are experiencing is either the inherent design of the amp (clip light postition etc) or a fault that NEEDS checking (excessive heat).

Go and get it serviced - you'll have an amp that works, and think of the TB bandwidth that will be saved :D

If you are still reading this, you shouldn't be,you should be getting your amp checked and serviced. Go now!
 
#55
I lolled at the TB bandwidth that will be saved bit :-)

The trouble is the techs where I am dont know jack about half the amps they service, and the GK is a fairly advanced amp. And apparently the GK rep for where I am are completely useless too :-S
 
#56
jjl5590 said:
I lolled at the TB bandwidth that will be saved bit :-)

The trouble is the techs where I am dont know jack about half the amps they service, and the GK is a fairly advanced amp. And apparently the GK rep for where I am are completely useless too :-S
Click to expand...

Find a tech that knows where both his hands are at any one time and I can send you the service info for the price of an email address ;)
Your Warwick may seem ice cold but with it's idle current draw it is producing heat, maybe with just a much larger heat sink. A larger area on the sinks might make it seem cooler but it products plenty even without signal applied. :)
 
#58
ljazz said:
While not necessary, the EBS MultiComp is a wicked addition to the GK heads, especially in tube sim mode..... You'd swear they were made for each other. I use the gain on the comp as you would a variable input gain on a head that is equipped with one...... crank it until the clip light goes on, then back it down a bit.

The 700rbII growls like noones business when you can max the input (without clipping).
Click to expand...

Yeh I thought about getting one of those just for the tubism mode! Maybe I will!!!:bassist:
 

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