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Unveiling ~ Part Two: Projekt Blue II

Quick, picture-less update! (Worry notnew pics will be forthcoming once the weather allows for a proper photo-shoot! :snaphappy:)

I took my Blue Beastie back to my local guitar tech for a little more routing. This time, I'm doing what I should've done in the first place. I picked up a Reggie Hamilton signature Jazz pickguard, courtesy of the fine folks at WD Music, to be the routing template for the P-pup position. Now, it's placement is much closer to the classic "Sweet Spot of Yore".

So far, it's made an interesting impact on the sound. It's sounding even more deep, rumbly and well…Precision-like! But the jury (in my head and ears) is still out due to the pup needing a new piece of foam. Until I get it at the proper height, I'll reserve my final judgement 'til then, but the initial post-op shakedown is very encouraging! :woot:

But wait…there's the "Cosmetic" angle to deal with too! :cool: The pickguard is of the classic black/white/black plastic construction, and I can't let Projekt Blue stand in front of a camera without it's signature Sharpie-Blue tinting. (Heaven for fend, no! :nailbiting:) That, and I need to finally apply the vinyl "inlays" I bought from Jockomo last year, along with it's customized 12th-fret marker.

Why the delay on the inlays, you may ask? The directions say to wait a week before applying if you've oiled the fretboard. Since it was "going under the knife", I used that as an opportunity to give it a much needed lemon oil appliqué. Now that a couple of weeks have passed, it's ready to get all gussied-up. drool
 
Here's some of the pics I promised. These were taken immediately after I brought it home from the hospital my local Guitar Center. Yet again, mad props to Mike the Guitar Tech for doing such a clean routing job…and with minimal wood extracted! Nice and tight!! :thumbsup:

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It's definitely had an effect on the overall sound. I can't fully describe it, so let's just call it "deeper".

Oh, and for those who've thought about (or already went ahead and did it) doing a Sharpie-Dye-Job on a pickguard, I have an update on that front as well.

I've been hesitant to seal it up with brush-on Krazy Glue since I don't know exactly what will happen. Well, since I had the previously-tinted Blacktop Jazz guard handy, I thought I'd use it as a test-bed. On the up-side, the dye is well protected and sealed in. No more worries about stray dye coming off. On the down-side, it neutralized that super cool scarab-effect I love so very, very much. So for the time being, I'll be leaving the dye-job unsealed and unadulterated. ;)

One last thing (for now!), I'm trying out a brand-new set of D'Addario NYXL .100's on it. So far, the results are encouraging. They sound and feel quite nice, but I'll reserve final judgement for after I get to know them a bit better.
 
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It's pretty easy, but it does take a little care and patience. Not the "lay down a layer and wait a week" kind of patience, but it still takes a few hours.

A pickguard that still has it's protective sticker is ideal. Otherwise, you'll have to work very carefully. A "Fine Point" marker is preferable over an "Ultra Fine" point. I've never used anything bigger than a "Fine", so I don't know how well you could control the amount of ink hitting the edge and the front face. One other thing, this technique assumes you're using a black/white/black pickguard.
  • Remove the pickguard. (I know…"DUH", but it's still important)
  • Grip the guard through the pickup slots so you don't get ink all over your fingers and end up smudging it all over the front face.
  • Trace the angled edge of the marker point around the beveled edge of the guard. Make sure the white portion is completely covered, but don't over-saturate it. One layer is just fine.
  • Let dry for an hour or so. Make sure you rest it on something clean and dry, like a sheet of white paper. (You don't want to get stray ink on anything)
  • Take a paper towel and fold it up until you have a burnishing surface. Hold the guard down flat onto a hard surface with the white paper under it and start rubbing/burnishing the beveled edge. This is to remove excess ink that hasn't bonded with the guard. The paper underneath is to keep smudges off your work surface.
  • Apply a second coat, wait another hour and burnish again. Make sure the coat is even and doesn't look runny.
  • If you like the color you've achieved and it's consistency, you're done.
  • The Blacktop Jazz took two coats, but the blue guard took three to get that blue-to-purple scarab-effect. The cool thing about it is that, like a scarab it shifts depending on the angle and intensity of the light hitting it.
One very important point; stray ink may come off if you rub a polishing cloth over the coloring-job. Not a lot, if you burnished enough off, but just be careful when polishing around it. I noticed some red streaking on my polishing cloth when I was cleaning off my Blacktop Jazz. Not too much, but just a little. Also, I don't know how it'll react if it gets wet, so be careful, especially if you tend to sweat all over your bass.

I haven't had a chance to work on something to seal it up. I'm thinking of using some spray-on glossy clear coat, like the kind artists use to protect their paintings. But that would probably only work if the guard still has it's protective plastic film. I don't know what would happen if I used a brush-on coating. It's solvents might cause the ink start to run. But I'll be sure to let people know if I find a technique to pull it off.

Interesting to see that old trick again. Way back when I started using mint green, tan/brown and black art markers to tint the white middle layer on black and tort pickguards.
 
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Now that everything is installed and reassembled, it's time for another update! :woot:

The new, Reggie-spec'd routing was a resounding success! It has definitely added a bit more "beef" to the overall sound, but without turning it "muddy". Mad Love for @Reggie Hamilton and his design team who sussed out the "Sweet Spot" placement for a Precision pickup on a Jazz body! I tip my hat to thee and thine!!
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As stated on the previous page, the neck was harvested from a Fender Aerodyne (Export-Edition) Jazz bass, which has proven time and again to be one of my all-time favorite necks. I've further "enhanced" it with a set of white pearloid, vinyl inlay stickers from Jockomo. I even went to the added expense of having a customized, 12th-fret inlay in an abalone color scheme. Mind you, I made sure to follow his instructions regarding the stickers and oiling the fretboard. He specifies waiting at least a week after oiling the board before installation. Just to be sure, I waited a few weeks, then gave the board a wipe-down with a dry polishing cloth.

The new D'Addario NYXL's are working out quite well. They have the "smooth, yet growly" aspect of their FlexSteels, but with the visual "shine" of nickel or stainless steel strings. (FlexSteels and Ernie Ball Cobalt rounds have a duller finish, which does not make me love them any less…it's merely a visual difference)

Before I get to the pics, I'd like to thank everyone who's offered praise, encouragement, advice and valuable, constructive criticism. All of you deserve a little bit of credit for what may be the zenith of this long-term project of mine. It's been incredibly educational, occasionally frustrating (but what well-earned things in life aren't?) and most of all…an 'eff-ton of fun! Mad Love to all y'all!! :thumbsup: :bassist:

But enough of this jibber-jabber…it's Photo-Time!!
:snaphappy:

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Well done and creatively simple!

Many thanks, Ghastly! I'm assuming you're talking about the pickguard-tinting we discussed earlier, yes? 'Cuz yeah, that's pretty simple. The path to curating and assembling "The Whole Shebang" was a bit rockier, but I wouldn't change a thing, save perhaps using a Blacktop guard at the onset. Thank Bob, it didn't require too much more routing for the Reggie-sig guard to go into place! :)
 
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Thanks, but some credit has to go to @JIO for bringing the Krazy Glue brush-applicator to my attention. I may yet use it on my red-tinged Blacktop guard, since it doesn't have the scarab-effect of the blue Sharpie dye. But for now, I'll keep my current guard unglued.

I use the Krazy Glue brush-applicator all the time for many applications. You can repair small divots/dings building it up and it's pretty seamless. You can't go too heavy all at once - it'll fog a bit, probably a chemical burn of some sort. Also - if doing larger sections, be really careful standing over it. Not only the smell (bad) but the fumes will burn your eyes - not recommended. (do it outside or with a fan blowing sideways away from your face)
 
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Very cool project, I like it!
You start out with some parts, try them out for a while and improve them until you get the bass you really like.
Great!

Yes sir, it's pretty much that. It can be as fun as it is educational to tinker and experiment. And with a resource like TalkBass at one's fingertips, it opens up soooooo many possibilities…one could almost say too many. o_O

If you fail here or there, at least you've learned something. If you succeed, you just might end up with an excellent instrument, "resale value" be damned.

Another benefit that I've mentioned across several threads is how the cost of the instrument gets spread across such a great amount of time. It helps minimize the "pinch" your wallet feels. :greedy:
 
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Absolutely stunning....That body makes my knees go weak and I want that finish on my SR5 or Jazz 5ver

I really like the look with just the neck dots...but that is my taste if no binding

You certainly have inspired me......and have done a beautiful job
 
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Absolutely stunning....That body makes my knees go weak and I want that finish on my SR5 or Jazz 5ver

I really like the look with just the neck dots...but that is my taste if no binding

You certainly have inspired me......and have done a beautiful job

Many heartfelt thanks, Murphy!
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I must say, I don't know which I enjoy more…people appreciating my work or the inspiration to create and explore they derive from it.

Sadly, I suspect Mighty Mite may have gotten out of the business of making Fender® licensed bodies and necks. Their website is strangely devoid of them (not that their website was ever one I would call "well maintained" :meh:) and the selection of necks is not what it used to be. I'm guessing their license expired or was not renewed, probably when Fender got into making their own replacement bodies and necks.
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I also like that body, the transparant blue to dark blue is absolutely stunning.
After some experimenting, it goes beyond my skills at the moment to make a decent job of my DYI kit - and I'm a nitpicker :D - so I'll stick with a natural wood finish.
I'll keep it in mind though for DIY build #2 :)
 
I also like that body, the transparant blue to dark blue is absolutely stunning.
After some experimenting, it goes beyond my skills at the moment to make a decent job of my DYI kit - and I'm a nitpicker :D - so I'll stick with a natural wood finish.
I'll keep it in mind though for DIY build #2 :)

Nothing wrong with experimenting on some scrap pieces of wood first…just sayin'. :whistle:
 
Now that everything is installed and reassembled, it's time for another update! :woot:

The new, Reggie-spec'd routing was a resounding success! It has definitely added a bit more "beef" to the overall sound, but without turning it "muddy". Mad Love for @Reggie Hamilton and his design team who sussed out the "Sweet Spot" placement for a Precision pickup on a Jazz body! I tip my hat to thee and thine!! View attachment 2508759

As stated on the previous page, the neck was harvested from a Fender Aerodyne (Export-Edition) Jazz bass, which has proven time and again to be one of my all-time favorite necks. I've further "enhanced" it with a set of white pearloid, vinyl inlay stickers from Jockomo. I even went to the added expense of having a customized, 12th-fret inlay in an abalone color scheme. Mind you, I made sure to follow his instructions regarding the stickers and oiling the fretboard. He specifies waiting at least a week after oiling the board before installation. Just to be sure, I waited a few weeks, then gave the board a wipe-down with a dry polishing cloth.

The new D'Addario NYXL's are working out quite well. They have the "smooth, yet growly" aspect of their FlexSteels, but with the visual "shine" of nickel or stainless steel strings. (FlexSteels and Ernie Ball Cobalt rounds have a duller finish, which does not make me love them any less…it's merely a visual difference)

Before I get to the pics, I'd like to thank everyone who's offered praise, encouragement, advice and valuable, constructive criticism. All of you deserve a little bit of credit for what may be the zenith of this long-term project of mine. It's been incredibly educational, occasionally frustrating (but what well-earned things in life aren't?) and most of all…an 'eff-ton of fun! Mad Love to all y'all!! :thumbsup: :bassist:

But enough of this jibber-jabber…it's Photo-Time!!
:snaphappy:

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Malak - you and GIO always seem to have some of the coolest, most unique basses out there. Thanks for sharing.
 
Malak - you and JIO always seem to have some of the coolest, most unique basses out there. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your kind words, especially when you compare the products of my hobby to the pro-level work @JIO does. :)

If you're interested, I gave another bass of mine a makeover, complete with pictures, here. ;)
 
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