Versatek6, thanks for the info. We'll see how I like it, it definitely is beautiful. Also, we should chat - noticed you are from the Twin Cities, are a P&W bassist, and like Trace Elliot. PM coming...
Raz
Raz
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
US Masters club
- Thread starter Longshot
- Start date
Just cleaned it up, still need new strings and a wrench to adjust the truss rod. 
So, no tone report, but initial tests through headphones are promising.
A note about the pics: it definitely is purple, not blue!
So, no tone report, but initial tests through headphones are promising.A note about the pics: it definitely is purple, not blue!
A few quick thoughts while I'm at an actual keyboard (and not on my phone):
I really like the quality of this bass. It has metal inserts in the neck, pickup cavities and electronics cover for all those screws - very nice. Despite the two gouges on the back (and other scratches from the carelessness of the place that I got it from) the finish is in practically new condition. Neck also looks brand new, with barely any perceptible fret-wear. It has EMG 35's and an EB-A preamp (it matches the EBC pre on their site, maybe that's just the board's identifier?)
Gripes: until I get a truss-rod wrench I can't tension the strings; when I did the bow in the neck was so bad that the G string was floating in the nut slot. IMO, string trees are a cop-out; either recess the tuning machines or put an angled headstock on the thing. I much prefer angled headstocks!
Also, the bridge finish is wearing off - when I removed it for cleaning, it felt like the cheapest, lightest piece of metal I've ever seen for a bridge. Maybe it's aluminum, I dunno - but it has no mass at all. Have to do some research there; so long as it works I guess I'm good with it. It's redeeming quality is that it allows for easy string replacements (I also cannot stand string-thru bridges!!)
All that being said, I can't wait to get it 100%. Thanks for the offer to assist Versatek6 - I was planning on going by Home Depot to see if I could get something to work with it, like a long 1/4" nut driver or something.
TBC...
I really like the quality of this bass. It has metal inserts in the neck, pickup cavities and electronics cover for all those screws - very nice. Despite the two gouges on the back (and other scratches from the carelessness of the place that I got it from) the finish is in practically new condition. Neck also looks brand new, with barely any perceptible fret-wear. It has EMG 35's and an EB-A preamp (it matches the EBC pre on their site, maybe that's just the board's identifier?)
Gripes: until I get a truss-rod wrench I can't tension the strings; when I did the bow in the neck was so bad that the G string was floating in the nut slot. IMO, string trees are a cop-out; either recess the tuning machines or put an angled headstock on the thing. I much prefer angled headstocks!
Also, the bridge finish is wearing off - when I removed it for cleaning, it felt like the cheapest, lightest piece of metal I've ever seen for a bridge. Maybe it's aluminum, I dunno - but it has no mass at all. Have to do some research there; so long as it works I guess I'm good with it. It's redeeming quality is that it allows for easy string replacements (I also cannot stand string-thru bridges!!)
All that being said, I can't wait to get it 100%. Thanks for the offer to assist Versatek6 - I was planning on going by Home Depot to see if I could get something to work with it, like a long 1/4" nut driver or something.
TBC...
I couldn't find the wrench, so off to the store with you...
The gold finish on mine bridge wearing, too. No gold finish lasts unless it is clear-coated. I haven't pulled the bridges on any of mine, but I am going to guess that because of the density of the maple body, a lightweight bridge was chosen; too much density can kill the harmonics. Ed Friedland recently wrote about this in Bass Player.
Regarding the tuners, Sperzel says run the string through, lock it in and tune up. That hasn't worked for me. I have to run a few wraps around the post to get enough downward pressure on the nut. A prior owner unnecessarily put a retainer on my lacewood 4, leaving a nasty hole in the headstock. I saw a nice old 4 like yours on the 'Bay where the dope ran the screw through the logo plate.
Just for my taste, I shimmed the neck on a couple of mine. If you find that necessary, you'll need a number 2 square drive bit for the neck bolts. Pick one up when you go for the truss wrench.
I really love the purple finish! I had a USM guitar in that color for a while, but the tone didn't excite me - not a maple on mahogany fan any longer, I guess.
Looking forward to an update after the tune-up!
The gold finish on mine bridge wearing, too. No gold finish lasts unless it is clear-coated. I haven't pulled the bridges on any of mine, but I am going to guess that because of the density of the maple body, a lightweight bridge was chosen; too much density can kill the harmonics. Ed Friedland recently wrote about this in Bass Player.
Regarding the tuners, Sperzel says run the string through, lock it in and tune up. That hasn't worked for me. I have to run a few wraps around the post to get enough downward pressure on the nut. A prior owner unnecessarily put a retainer on my lacewood 4, leaving a nasty hole in the headstock. I saw a nice old 4 like yours on the 'Bay where the dope ran the screw through the logo plate.
Just for my taste, I shimmed the neck on a couple of mine. If you find that necessary, you'll need a number 2 square drive bit for the neck bolts. Pick one up when you go for the truss wrench.
I really love the purple finish! I had a USM guitar in that color for a while, but the tone didn't excite me - not a maple on mahogany fan any longer, I guess.
Looking forward to an update after the tune-up!
Finding a tool that can effectively adjust the TR is proving to be a challenge. Nothing I tried at a local specialty tool shop was effective; a long shank nut driver came close but not far enough. An extended driver bit might have worked but they didn't have one.
I'll keep searching for a solution. Perhaps a steel rod welded onto the end of a bit?
Raz
I'll keep searching for a solution. Perhaps a steel rod welded onto the end of a bit?
Raz
What you'll need, then, is a 1/4" version of this,
Invalid Link Removed
or this,
http://www.allparts.com/LT-4215-000-14-Box-Wrench_p_2200.html
I have the AllParts version, which I had to file down the heel so it would clear the cutout since the socket is too deep. Mild steel, so pretty easy.
The StewMac version looks like it is already beveled. My guitar shop orders parts from AllParts; if your does, they should be able to get you one without extra shipping charges.
Yes, exactly! Thanks for the links. While researching, I found that Fender sells truss rod nuts that are long and accept hex wrenches, I may try one local if I find one, but I'll probably just get the stewmac wrench.
Good news - stopped by my favorite local indie shop to see if they had a new output jack (which they didn't) and poked around near the cases. I have a gig bag for the bass but it's a bit too large and I thought I'd see if they had a HSC lying around that would work.
I pulled a Fenderish-looking case off their case rack, noticed it had "Tobias" silk screening on the side, and then looked for a matching Tobias bass on their wall of instruments. None were there, so it was open game. Opened it up and the USM bass fit perfectly! The body cutout was very similar to it, and it sits in there pretty securely. The icing on the cake was the truss rod wrench that was amongst the case candy in the storage compartment! How cool is that?
Couldn't pick it up today, gotta chat with the shop owner tomorrow about the price, but it's gotta come home with me. I'll have to order some strings and get a jack, then I should be good to go.
Raz
I pulled a Fenderish-looking case off their case rack, noticed it had "Tobias" silk screening on the side, and then looked for a matching Tobias bass on their wall of instruments. None were there, so it was open game. Opened it up and the USM bass fit perfectly! The body cutout was very similar to it, and it sits in there pretty securely. The icing on the cake was the truss rod wrench that was amongst the case candy in the storage compartment! How cool is that?
Couldn't pick it up today, gotta chat with the shop owner tomorrow about the price, but it's gotta come home with me. I'll have to order some strings and get a jack, then I should be good to go.
Raz
Shot in the HSC:
But here's a source of frustration for me - I fiddled with the neck and it has a funny bow to it, see photos below:
On their site (Invalid Link Removed) it states this: "Your instrument features our patented Neck Reinforcing Contoured Flex Truss Rod System which reinforces the neck, improves tone, attack and sustain, and sets a special relief contour in to the neck to provide for lower, more consistent action."
Later on in the paragraph they say to set the neck as flat as possible.
What is this funny neck shape, the "special relief contour" they mentioned? Maybe I should post something in the luthier's section for comment.
Raz
But here's a source of frustration for me - I fiddled with the neck and it has a funny bow to it, see photos below:
On their site (Invalid Link Removed) it states this: "Your instrument features our patented Neck Reinforcing Contoured Flex Truss Rod System which reinforces the neck, improves tone, attack and sustain, and sets a special relief contour in to the neck to provide for lower, more consistent action."
Later on in the paragraph they say to set the neck as flat as possible.
What is this funny neck shape, the "special relief contour" they mentioned? Maybe I should post something in the luthier's section for comment.Raz
I believe that is a symptom of too tight a truss rod. The neck has gone from flexing to compressing, making the wood "wrinkle". Try loosening the nut to see if it relaxes out. Also, USM said to make adjustments with the strings up to pitch.
That's why I had to shim a couple of mine with a piece of business card. I got the neck straight (with a little relief), but couldn't lower the saddles enough. Shimming changes the angle of the neck in the pocket.
By the way, that looks like a great case. Always been happy with TKL.
That's why I had to shim a couple of mine with a piece of business card. I got the neck straight (with a little relief), but couldn't lower the saddles enough. Shimming changes the angle of the neck in the pocket.
By the way, that looks like a great case. Always been happy with TKL.
I really like the sound of this bass – the EMG system is fantastic. Clean an clear with zing if I want it or thunder down low – wish it was a five string. It almost makes me want to swap our my Bart system in my fiver (but I think I’ll be able to fix that with some brighter Bart pups). I put lighter strings on it to try and get playable until I can fix it and put on some CircleK’s; I prefer tighter strings that I can lower the action with but these will have to do for now.
In an attempt to make it playable I put on a set of .100 DR Hi-Beams and they are significantly less tension than what was on it. Still sounds great, has a bright & aggressive tone. The neck p.u. is in the sweet spot; the bridge p.u. is reeeely nasaly - combined they sound good but I like the slightly fuller sound of the neck pup soloed. Haven't needed to adjust the EQ yet but I like how it works, plenty of adjustment range. Looking forward to the distant future when I can get the neck permanently fixed and use heavier strings on it.
It's a long drive from MN, so I'll give you a, "Good Luck!" in advance. Hop you get a lot of stage time.
I am about 40 min drive from there...but I'm not part of the club so....
These are nice looking basses. One thing I notice is the wide string spacing....very w-i-d-e, at least it looks that way.
No club membership needed to attend, just posted here and on other threads I post frequently to see if any other TB'ers would like to meet or just see a good show. FWIW, here is our trailer for this event:
Re: string spacing, I'd have to check the specs but my four string feels pretty normal, 18-19 mm I guesstimate. If I had $ and opportunity to buy another I wouldn't hesitate.
Eric
We could use a little updated content. Here is a slightly outdated picture.
L-R: Maple/maple/maple EP52, Kala Hutch Hutchinson U-Bass, lacewood/maple/ebony EP52, maple/maple/pau ferro ep4. The 52s have EMG B30 preamps (one with an active/passive switch). The photo is missing the lacewood/maple/pao ferro EP42 I most recently acquired; it looks like the middle one with the neck of the four, and has the 1st generation USM Multi-Voice Passive eq.
If you care, strings are all DR: Fat Beams with a .130 B, Black Beauties, and Legend Flats.
Notice the end of the fretboard on the four. You only see that on earlier production basses. The truss rod runs down into that extension, requiring a stubby wrench. I am guessing the extra inch of length might allow a little more fine tuning of the relief - or it could be just a cool little bit of artistry. It also has 4-on-a-side tuners, while later fours were 3+1. One trademark design on all their basses and their bolt-neck guitars is the offset position markers, giving the necks a very clean look.
Bill Lawrence made the original pickups for USM, and the EP4 has his P-46, which many feel is the best P-pickup made. I agree. The soapbars on the lacewood bass are Kent Armstrong. The P/J pickup set is unmarked; at some point USM began having their own pickups made to their specs. I've seen prototype pickups one eBay being sold that were acquired from the company's liquidation.
I have thoughts about upgrading pickups or preamps, but when I play them, I seem to get over it. For the P/J I might be able to get close to the old originals from [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] to see if the J-45 and P-46 would work size-wise.
I am considering putting the sunburst EP52 up for sale. I'm not sure I want to deal with the 10.2# weight anymore. But the fact that it plays so nicely and sounds so good makes parting difficult...
L-R: Maple/maple/maple EP52, Kala Hutch Hutchinson U-Bass, lacewood/maple/ebony EP52, maple/maple/pau ferro ep4. The 52s have EMG B30 preamps (one with an active/passive switch). The photo is missing the lacewood/maple/pao ferro EP42 I most recently acquired; it looks like the middle one with the neck of the four, and has the 1st generation USM Multi-Voice Passive eq.
If you care, strings are all DR: Fat Beams with a .130 B, Black Beauties, and Legend Flats.
Notice the end of the fretboard on the four. You only see that on earlier production basses. The truss rod runs down into that extension, requiring a stubby wrench. I am guessing the extra inch of length might allow a little more fine tuning of the relief - or it could be just a cool little bit of artistry. It also has 4-on-a-side tuners, while later fours were 3+1. One trademark design on all their basses and their bolt-neck guitars is the offset position markers, giving the necks a very clean look.
Bill Lawrence made the original pickups for USM, and the EP4 has his P-46, which many feel is the best P-pickup made. I agree. The soapbars on the lacewood bass are Kent Armstrong. The P/J pickup set is unmarked; at some point USM began having their own pickups made to their specs. I've seen prototype pickups one eBay being sold that were acquired from the company's liquidation.
I have thoughts about upgrading pickups or preamps, but when I play them, I seem to get over it. For the P/J I might be able to get close to the old originals from [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] to see if the J-45 and P-46 would work size-wise.
I am considering putting the sunburst EP52 up for sale. I'm not sure I want to deal with the 10.2# weight anymore. But the fact that it plays so nicely and sounds so good makes parting difficult...
