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Using a "spacer" and a template

Stu L.

Stu L.

Nov 27, 2001
4,024
208
Corsicana, Texas
#1
Well, for Christmas the in-laws got me those Stew-Mac router bits and a couple of templates I've been wanting. I'm currently working with the controll cavity set, part #1117. I routed the lower area last nite, and all went well.

My question is about routing the area where the cover actually sits. How can I set up the router so the bit rides the template, but isn't too deep into the wood? I'm thinking I'll need to cut a "spacer" of sorts to elevate the template. The template is 3/16" thick, and the cut only needs to be 1/8" deep. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
 
#5
#8
What about a rabbet bit? That's exactly what they are designed to do. You have a stright round bit, and you mount your choice of bearing on the end - the bearing size determines the width of the rabbet (the type of cut you are proposing).
 

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#9
I've used straight bits, 1" long, and just shimmed up the template. Try this:

Use 1/4" plywood strips, maybe like 1"x4". Cut a dozen of them. You'll always find a need for them anyways.

Use a hot glue gun to stick them to the very edge of the template, then hot glue them to the body. Don't worry, hot glue won't hurt bare wood. It'll peel off later after you're done.

Use as many shims as you need to get the template up high enough where the bearing rolls against it, and your bit depth is where you want it. Then start routing. Once you've got a layer done, crack away one or two shim layers at a time, so each layer is cut as deeply as you feel comfortable. About 1/2" deep at a time and you shouldn't have too much bite and pull on the router bit.
 
#12
What Enchanter_Tim posted is pretty much the same thing I was talking about.

Does this control-cavity set already have a second template that is a bit bigger than the first to make the cover ledge? And the problem is you just can't get the cut to be shallow enough? I'm not quite clear on exactly what the problem is.
 
#13
The reason most of us do not use a riser/spacer is because you can lift your router by mistake and nick the template, or the bearing may float on you and run off the template. Also, good alignment is difficult without having the outline as a guide for placement that you can match the edge of the thicker template to. 1 more thing, a 3/4 or 1 inch template gives you an even platform for routing, depending on your riser, you could get some flex in the 1/4 in plexi when routing. Using Ply or MDF, you can create a larger base for your router to ride on, gauranteeing that it will stay level, and not tip off an edge.

Just some info for you to consider
 
#14
Ray Holt said:
Does this control-cavity set already have a second template that is a bit bigger than the first to make the cover ledge? And the problem is you just can't get the cut to be shallow enough? I'm not quite clear on exactly what the problem is.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is a two piece set. There isn't so much of a problem, yet, as I haven't begun the second route. But getting a proper depth is what I was concerned with.

Musiclogic, thanks for the thoughts. I'll keep that in mind.

To all: Couldn't there potentially be allignment problems using a piece of MDF or ply as a template, as you can't be sure of exactly where it's sitting over the first cut? At least with the acrylic, you can see through it. Thoughts? Ideas?
 
#15
Since the route you are trying to make is bigger than the deep one you already did, you will be able to line it up fine. If you don't think so, just draw on the wood with the clear one so you get it perfect and then just line the mdf one up with those lines. The mdf one is really just 3-4 of the clear ones stacked on top of eachother. I'm sure someone on here has a picture of it that would help you understand.
 
#16
I'm picturing a 1/2" to 3/4" thick rectangular piece of wood/mdf with the center cut as the template. In that instance, the lip of the new template would block your view of the cavity to be routed. I guess that the new template could be cut exactly as the clear one, outside edges and all. Then marking the outer edge of the original and the new would line them up.
 
#17
If I would have reversed the order I did things (inner first, then outter) life would have been easier. But here's what I did to adjust for depth. Just counter sink some screws and add some spacer legs.........it also allowed for the size of the router base to move around the template in one pass instead of my clamps getting in the way.
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#20
Well, thanks all for the advise. I just got back from the woodshop, and I ended up making a copy of my template in 3/4" ply. I went so far as to cut the outer dimensions of the wood to the same as the clear master template. I predrilled the mounting holes from the clear template into the body (going for a solid color paint) and predrilled the ply template. Then it was a simple matter of alligning the screws into the predrilled holes. Worked like a charm. Thanks to all for the help :)
-Stu
 

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