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Using long scale strings on short scale bass

Dec 24, 2022
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Maybe I’ve just been lucky but I’ve used long scale Chromes on my 31” Birdsong for years and never had a problem despite most string manufacturers saying you shouldn’t allow anything but the silk section to wrap around the post. As you can see from the photo that definitely occurs with the E and G strings - and yes, the outer winding is clearly getting a little separated - but I’ve never had a string break or go bad on me yet. Must be the luck of the Irish in me 😎
 

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Maybe I’ve just been lucky but I’ve used long scale Chromes on my 31” Birdsong for years and never had a problem despite most string manufacturers saying you shouldn’t allow anything but the silk section to wrap around the post. As you can see from the photo that definitely occurs with the E and G strings - and yes, the outer winding is clearly getting a little separated - but I’ve never had a string break or go bad on me yet. Must be the luck of the Irish in me 😎
I would do this as a kid. Back then, we didn't always have short-scale strings available at my mom-and-pop music shops. When I had a short-scale bass I would use long scale strings. Never had an issue but I think I would crimp the exposed windings that wound around the post if there was no silk or if I trimmed off the silk end because it was way too long and too much to wrap around the post. This was in those ancient times of the 70s 😊
 
I've had short scale Chromes on my Mini P for over 4 years. It's 28.6" scale so the E string wraps around the post. No issues. Labellas might break.
Rounds could be cut down but they'd have to fit in the tuners at full gauge. Put a kink before the cut or they will unravel.
 
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Maybe I’ve just been lucky but I’ve used long scale Chromes on my 31” Birdsong for years and never had a problem despite most string manufacturers saying you shouldn’t allow anything but the silk section to wrap around the post....
Most string manufactures? La Bella is the only company I know of who explicitly warns against having non-silked part of their flats wrap around the post as well as stringing them thru-body.

I've used GHS Precision Flats with the full winding on the E wrapping around the post with no issues.

GHS P Flat E Wrap.jpg
 
Most string manufactures? La Bella is the only company I know of who explicitly warns against having non-silked part of their flats wrap around the post as well as stringing them thru-body..

View attachment 7144507

I don’t think it’s just La Bella. This from a Strings Direct article:

We asked several of the big bass string manufacturers about this particular topic and without fail, each one cited the strings not tapering at the optimum spot as one of the main reasons you shouldn’t trim down a longer scale bass set.

Link Removed
Aside from the fact that we run the risk of the string not even fitting our machineheads, there are other pitfalls we need to be mindful of.

Jack Dunwoody of [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] pointed out that bending a thick string around the capstan runs the risk of the strings’ outer windings separating.

Both Neil Silverman of Newtone Strings and Adam Ironside from D’Addario UK added that as the windings separate, “they can also become bent and crimp and may even start to cut into one another.”

As you can imagine, this isn’t ideal and it would only be a matter of time before we started to hear some degradation in tone, or worse, for a string to break altogether.

The above is especially true for flatwound strings. If you’ve ever taken a close eye at the outer surface of a flatwound string, you’ll notice that the windings are wound seamlessly adjacent to one another creating that beautifully smooth, flat surface (see image below left). But, if any windings become separated from one another, it will expose the inner core of the string and will inevitably lead to string breakage.

Link RemovedLeft: a perfectly smooth surface found on a flatwound string
Right: Wrapping the wound portion of the flatwound string around our tuners has caused the windings to separate.
As part of our research we also spoke to our friends over the pond at La Bella in New York. When we asked whether it’s possible to trim down longer scale strings to fit onto shorter scale basses their answer was a resounding “Absolutely not!!... especially for flatwound strings.”

They went on to explain that if any metal portion of the string is wrapped around the tuner, the windings of a flatwound string separate and the string will start to unravel.

An unravelling string is never a good thing of course and it goes without saying that no string is fundamentally designed to do this. However, if a string does start to unravel, the longevity and tonality will start to become compromised fairly rapidly.

Again, it wasn’t just La Bella that raised concerns about unravelling, many of the other string brands we spoke to had the same misgivings.

In fact, Jack Dunwoody of [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] gave us some great insight into the tonal implications of an unravelled string;

“As the string unravels, you often hear the string start to buzz. Thicker gauge bass strings are made up of several layers of windings built up around the central core and the buzz that you hear occurs between these layers as they start to become detached from one another.”

So as you can see, whilst you might be able to scrape by and make a cut down set of long scale bass strings work in the short term, one day you’re bound to come across one of these issues and your bass certainly won’t be performing or sounding at its full potential. Not great if this all starts booting off mid gig either!!
We asked several of the big bass string manufacturers about this particular topic and without fail, each one cited the strings not tapering at the optimum spot as one of the main reasons you shouldn’t trim down a longer scale bass set.

Link RemovedAside from the fact that we run the risk of the string not even fitting our machineheads, there are other pitfalls we need to be mindful of.

Jack Dunwoody of [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] pointed out that bending a thick string around the capstan runs the risk of the strings’ outer windings separating.

Both Neil Silverman of Newtone Strings and Adam Ironside from D’Addario UK added that as the windings separate, “they can also become bent and crimp and may even start to cut into one another.”

As you can imagine, this isn’t ideal and it would only be a matter of time before we started to hear some degradation in tone, or worse, for a string to break altogether.

The above is especially true for flatwound strings. If you’ve ever taken a close eye at the outer surface of a flatwound string, you’ll notice that the windings are wound seamlessly adjacent to one another creating that beautifully smooth, flat surface (see image below left). But, if any windings become separated from one another, it will expose the inner core of the string and will inevitably lead to string breakage.

Link RemovedLeft: a perfectly smooth surface found on a flatwound string
Right: Wrapping the wound portion of the flatwound string around our tuners has caused the windings to separate.
As part of our research we also spoke to our friends over the pond at La Bella in New York. When we asked whether it’s possible to trim down longer scale strings to fit onto shorter scale basses their answer was a resounding “Absolutely not!!... especially for flatwound strings.”

They went on to explain that if any metal portion of the string is wrapped around the tuner, the windings of a flatwound string separate and the string will start to unravel.

An unravelling string is never a good thing of course and it goes without saying that no string is fundamentally designed to do this. However, if a string does start to unravel, the longevity and tonality will start to become compromised fairly rapidly.

Again, it wasn’t just La Bella that raised concerns about unravelling, many of the other string brands we spoke to had the same misgivings.

In fact, Jack Dunwoody of [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] gave us some great insight into the tonal implications of an unravelled string;

“As the string unravels, you often hear the string start to buzz. Thicker gauge bass strings are made up of several layers of windings built up around the central core and the buzz that you hear occurs between these layers as they start to become detached from one another.”

So as you can see, whilst you might be able to scrape by and make a cut down set of long scale bass strings work in the short term, one day you’re bound to come across one of these issues and your bass certainly won’t be performing or sounding at its full potential. Not great if this all starts booting off mid gig either!!
 
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Ideally you’d want the tapered end wrapped instead of winding. But in most cases it’s not going to affect playability.
Because I’m dumb I cut a string of a 34” set of TI on a 30” bass now over 4 years ago and I play them almost daily and with no problem. I have the short scale set I meant to use still in my bin, waiting.

There are some strings that cannot take that tight turn. There are some posts that don’t take that gauge. But for the most part you’ll be ok.

There have been short strings for a very long time but the majority of consumer players don’t know that and the majority of stores never stocked them.
You may get chastised on TB but you’re in the majority.
 
I had one string that I made a mistake when purchasing: I meant to purchase a standard long scale D'A XL .130 B string. What I got was super-long scale tapered. Well, I attempted to install it anyway, putting a spacer between the ball and the bridge so that the tapered part did not go over my bridge saddle. It was still too long at the tuner. This is even though I have a 2+3 arrangement so the B-string tuner is about as far up the headstock you can get. Unfortunately, it did not matter. As I pulled the string to pitch it popped. Yes, I broke the core around the tuner post.

Please, please, always repeat the mantra when purchasing strings:
1) measure from the ball anchor to the tuner side of the nut;
2) measure from the anchor to the middle of the lowest string tuning post;
3) purchase a set of strings that the winding or speaking length is between these two measurements.

Yes, I have chanted this mantra, and posted it here on the forum, for years. Yes, I made a mistake and tried to make do with it to no avail. Yes, now I get to purchase more B-strings in the proper scale length, double-checking that I ticked the right string.
 
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I would do this as a kid. Back then, we didn't always have short-scale strings available at my mom-and-pop music shops. When I had a short-scale bass I would use long scale strings. Never had an issue but I think I would crimp the exposed windings that wound around the post if there was no silk or if I trimmed off the silk end because it was way too long and too much to wrap around the post. This was in those ancient times of the 70s 😊
I still do it today. I also seal the silk with a lighter , or sometimes with super glue. $ to 5 inches is enough room to have 3-4 wraps
 
I would do this as a kid. Back then, we didn't always have short-scale strings available at my mom-and-pop music shops. When I had a short-scale bass I would use long scale strings. Never had an issue but I think I would crimp the exposed windings that wound around the post if there was no silk or if I trimmed off the silk end because it was way too long and too much to wrap around the post. This was in those ancient times of the 70s 😊
This
 
Maybe I’ve just been lucky but I’ve used long scale Chromes on my 31” Birdsong for years and never had a problem despite most string manufacturers saying you shouldn’t allow anything but the silk section to wrap around the post. As you can see from the photo that definitely occurs with the E and G strings - and yes, the outer winding is clearly getting a little separated - but I’ve never had a string break or go bad on me yet. Must be the luck of the Irish in me 😎
Mine came from Birdsong wearing standard-length Curt Mangan nickel-wounds. Good enough for Scott Beckwith, good enough for me.
 
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