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Using Spraymax 2k (2-part) spray cans? Any info?

bassingeorge

bassingeorge

Jul 28, 2003
1,242
617
40
San diego, CA
#1
Howdy folks! It's been a while.

Ok, so I have a plan on my mind...sort of a late summer project. I'm buying a Squier jaguar bass V, stripping the finish or at least knock the first layer of paint, and doing my first...wait for it...metal flake diy finish. A big project. As I'm going through piles of info, materials I need, size of flakes, finishing tutorials and other forums on the topic. Anyways I stumbled across this clear coat rattlecan that is a 2-part auto grade urethane(?), that looks like a good candidate for burying all those metal flakes, supposedly being of higher build. Anyone have experience with this product? It is not cheap at almost $30 retail a can.

The things I wanna know is ease of application, sanding, polishing, etc.


images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTRbXi4vfVTkeLeFji46rU7e2ZDuTtT2ZIFx9GPm-miInfYPpYKvT1VRkWg.jpg
 
#3
IMHO, unless you have a full bore fresh air supply mask/suit there is no justification for screwing around with catalyzed urethanes - they are deadly in no uncertain terms, and "go outside, hold your breath and hope the wind doesn't shift" is not a particularly good way of dealing with deadly things, even though some people evidently do that. Invest in the gear, or use a different system.

Alternatively, drop it off at the auto-body shop where they have the right gear to deal with that stuff, and might be able to lay a coat on after they lay a coat on a car.

I have no personal experience using it, as I don't have the gear and I prefer living to the alternative.
 
#4
Thanks T_Bone_TL for the insight. I have seen lots of videos, read a few forums about that particular rattlecan, and although I WILL be wearing a mask and safety eyewear, it looks like a faster, better way to finish the bass I'm after.

I do plan on taking the bass body to an auto body shop only if I struggle to bury the metal flakes with the rattlecan.

I see were what you mean on the dangers of catalyzed paints, but it just seems so easy on the videos I've seen :thumbsdown:

I will however be trying out the metal flake finish with regular off the shelf rust-o-leum just to test the "waters".
 
#5
I struggled with the whole poisonous finish issue, I've inhaled, absorbed, or otherwise ingested more than my share of evil chemicals when I was young and immortal. You can probably get away with it with pro level safety gear, hard to justify for one or two guitars. I've decided to go Water Based all the way, considerably less toxic, though not without issues. Check out the WB thread on Luthiers Corner, people have worked out some materials and techniques with excellent results.
Using water based products for instrument finishing, Target Coatings 9000 6000 and Varathane WB
 
#6
2K will mess you up in scary ways. Don't take the chance! You will find more information on 2K rattle cans from RC hobbyist forums than instrument forums. I read enough horror stories to put me right off using the stuff. I was sold on the stuff by some nutter who convinced me that he was spraying the stuff in a makeshift booth in his garden, and that he sprayed it with a scarf around his face. He simply took a good deep breath, ran in, 'bombed' the body with 2K and then ran away again. An utter idiot.

There isn't the sort of 'I might get away with this' wiggle room that you might get with other rattlecan finishes.
 
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#10
I've used 2k spray acrylic. I also use 3M respirator. I would not even think about spraying anything solvent based without proper respirator. I can't see why 2k would bo more hazardous than nitro or other solvent based stuff.
After a few days curing 2k sands and polishes very easily. It's also easy to spray without having runs, just wait for the coat to get tacky before spraying the next coat.
 
#12
MPU said:
I can't see why 2k would bo more hazardous than nitro or other solvent based stuff.
Click to expand...

2K contains isocyanates. if you are exposed once then you might simply wake up in hospital the next day, but after that you are sensitized and develop a form of asthma when you come into contact with it again, which can be bad news. Also, you don't need to breathe the stuff in. It simply has to come into contact with your skin, eyes etc. You need an air-fed full face mask and to completely suit up if you want to work with this stuff.
 
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#13
T_Bone_TL said:
IMHO, unless you have a full bore fresh air supply mask/suit there is no justification for screwing around with catalyzed urethanes - they are deadly in no uncertain terms, and "go outside, hold your breath and hope the wind doesn't shift" is not a particularly good way of dealing with deadly things, even though some people evidently do that. Invest in the gear, or use a different system.

Alternatively, drop it off at the auto-body shop where they have the right gear to deal with that stuff, and might be able to lay a coat on after they lay a coat on a car.

I have no personal experience using it, as I don't have the gear and I prefer living to the alternative.
Click to expand...

A respirator, tyvek shirt and gloves is all you really need. I have been spraying 2k for years with nothing but a vapor/fume cartridge respirator and good ventilation. The MSDS does not call for supplied air, just proper respirator.

Axstar said:
2K contains isocyanates. if you are exposed once then you might simply wake up in hospital the next day, but after that you are sensitized and develop a form of asthma when you come into contact with it again, which can be bad news. Also, you don't need to breathe the stuff in. It simply has to come into contact with your skin, eyes etc. You need an air-fed full face mask and to completely suit up if you want to work with this stuff.
Click to expand...

I have been spraying 2k urethane for years with a standard air purifying respirator. Supplied air is not necessary, just a respirator with a fume/vapor cartridge. Of course you don't want to breath the stuff in, but its not like you are spraying poison.
 
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#14
bassingeorge said:
Howdy folks! It's been a while.

Ok, so I have a plan on my mind...sort of a late summer project. I'm buying a Squier jaguar bass V, stripping the finish or at least knock the first layer of paint, and doing my first...wait for it...metal flake diy finish. A big project. As I'm going through piles of info, materials I need, size of flakes, finishing tutorials and other forums on the topic. Anyways I stumbled across this clear coat rattlecan that is a 2-part auto grade urethane(?), that looks like a good candidate for burying all those metal flakes, supposedly being of higher build. Anyone have experience with this product? It is not cheap at almost $30 retail a can.

The things I wanna know is ease of application, sanding, polishing, etc.


images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTRbXi4vfVTkeLeFji46rU7e2ZDuTtT2ZIFx9GPm-miInfYPpYKvT1VRkWg.jpg
Click to expand...



My first question is, how do you plan on spraying your flake coats? To spray a decent sized flake, you are going to need a spray gun with at least a 1.8mm tip.

Yes the Spraymax system will work and work well for burying the flake, but be prepared to spend quite a bit of money. You are going to need at minimum 3 or 4 cans. I have never used it personally, but application will likely be typical of any spray can. You will probably have a narrow fan and a low volume, but you should be able to lay down a decent coat if you go slow enough. Sanding and polishing will be just like any other 2k urethane so it should dry hard, and polish up to a high gloss if you take your time and go through all the grits.
 
#15
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