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Using Wax To Turn Gloss Finish Satin

#3
Bruce Johnson said:
I'm not sure why you would want to do that? I think that would make a blotchy mess.

The simplest way to turn a gloss finish to satin is to lightly scrub it with #0000 steel wool. That's all; don't put any wax or other coating on it.
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I thought using steel wool might cause a "scratched matte" look. Also, I thought wax or hardwax oil could help out with the satin remaining satin even in high wear areas.
Why would it be more blotchy on sanded poly than on wood sanded to 100-150 grit?
 
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#4
HutHutHuda said:
I thought using steel wool might cause a "scratched matte" look. Also, I thought wax or hardwax oil could help out with the satin remaining satin even in high wear areas.
Why would it be more blotchy on sanded poly than on wood sanded to 100-150 grit?
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#0000 steel wool is like sanding with 1500-2000 grit paper, in a fairly random pattern. It makes a fine roughness on the surface that takes away the gloss.

Sanding a gloss black finish with 100-150 grit paper will make it seriously scratched and uneven. And a wax or oil/wax won't hide that.

If you don't want to go as far satin as the #0000 steel wool, an alternative is to go over the whole thing with coarse rubbing compound. That will make it more of a semi-gloss.
 
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#6
I tried taking the gloss finish down to a smoother satiny finish, last month, with ultrafine sanding from 400 all the way to 20,000. It did absolutely nothing. The best and only way, I have found to do any necks, is to totally strip it to bare wood and oil and wax it. There may be a few 'easy' shortcuts, but the gloss always rears its ugly shiny head again, after a while of playing. I did 3-4 necks this year and all were stripped bare and oiled and waxed. It takes time and a moderate skill, but It is so much better.
 
#8
SharpCat said:
I find 000 (gray) steel wool equivalent pads to be a better choice for satin than the 0000 (white) pad. The white pads are too soft in my experience.
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Grey scotchbrite “synthetic “ steel wool is the way to go.
Followed by melamine sponge will bring the sheen to satin from matte and reduce the “scratchy” appearance.
 
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#13
HutHutHuda said:
Hey!

I’m looking to turn a gloss black finish into satin without spraying over it.

Would it work to sand the existing poly finish down to 100-150 grit and then apply something like carnauba wax or a hardwax oil (like Rubio Monocoat) on top to get the satin look? Do these products need to bond directly to wood fibers?

Thanks for the help!
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Just break the gloss.
buldog5151bass said:
I don't like using steel wool, since the pickup magnetron pick up loose "wool". I prefer a scotchbrite pad.
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This is why you take everything off the body before you go at it with steel wool. I use worn green scotchbrite pads on my necks.
 
#14
For the back of a neck, scotchbrite is fine....I guess

But a scratched gloss finish is not "satin".- I don't care what people say...
Yes, it might approach satin in terms of reflectivity but it is not satin in the
true sense of the word.
My Roger bass has a gloss neck finish and a satin headstock finish and there
ain't a scratch on the headstock-

That being said, could the OP scuff the gloss area and re-shoot with satin?
 
#15
Wax over a cured finish is a bad idea. Although it may seem like it's more work, it's not really that difficult to overspray a gloss finish. You have to dismantle the thing, which is probably what scares a lot of people off, but even that isn't that difficult. After that, you clean anything that's there off the body, do a fine scuff (600 grit), and then spray away. The next step is the hardest - waiting for the finish to really cure. The spray can may say the stuff is ready for use in 24 hours, but you need 3 or 4 x that to get it fully cured. Then you reassemble.
 
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#16
stevensivak said:
For the back of a neck, scotchbrite is fine....I guess

But a scratched gloss finish is not "satin".- I don't care what people say...
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A scratched gloss finish is a great finish for the back of the neck (I've done that a number of times), but for the body, You want to over spray the thing with satin.
I do my necks in gloss (to get a good hard finish on the thing) with the last 2 or 3 coats being satin. A couple weeks later, when it's fully cured, I hit the back of the neck with 800 grit (takes 2 minutes, literally), and it's a great neck.
 
#17
As with other things, not all 0000 wool is the same. I've gotten wool from online suppliers that is far superior to the oil impregnated stuff in a sleeve from the paint store.

I avoid using wax in some cases, as it's so hard to completely remove if needed.

Sometimes I burnish a surface that's been rubbed out with wool. I use burlap or something similar. In lieu of wax.
 
#19
bigdaddybass12 said:
I would try a scotchbrite pad 1st. My satin bass is getting polished where my arm/shirt rests on it. It may not stay satin in spots. Using a wax will not accomplish anything. Whatever you use make sure it’s silicone free.
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It’s a losing battle with any satin-finish instrument. Our ape-like appendages will buff every contact point to a high(er) luster.

Riis
 
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#20
/\/\3phist0 said:
I use the sponge dry, it’s dusty, but easier to clean up than slurry.
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Is it spongeworthy?

1734462169161.png
 
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