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Vintage Peavey 1810 project

JohnnyChatter

JohnnyChatter

Apr 23, 2011
1,423
1,786
Denver, Colorado
#1
7CC10F96-8560-4346-AE82-315867B8FD8B.jpeg
I did a thing! Found an old 1516 cab for almost nothing on Facebook market. Dude said he would even deliver it to me. Showed up in a junk truck and took off before I could say goodbye. So my hopes were not very high. First thing I noticed was it was an 1810 cab. I checked the resistance on it and it seemed correct so I plugged it in and got nothing but crunching and farting and flapping. Took it apart and realized one of the 10’s needed glued back down to the frame. Did that. Waited a day and plugged it in and found the crossover didn’t work. So I pulled the crossover out and ran two jacks in parallel to each 4 ohm load. Now I can run 2 cables into the back at 2 ohm. I can also run 1 cable from my head and a speaker cable from one side to the other for an 8 ohm load. I am honestly surprised how thick and defined it sounds for a 70’s era cab. Its also pretty easy to move around and not as heavy as others complain about it.
 
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#2
Those cabs are not terrible. I know cats that used them and sounded pretty good through them. I don't think it's not as outright heavy as it is somewhat top heavy which can make it difficult to transport. IIRC the handles are in a weird place. From the sound of your issues, it could have gotten wet at some time. Glad you could get it going again. Have Fun!
 
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#4
JohnnyChatter said:
Took it apart and realized one of the 10’s needed glued back down to the frame. Did that.
Click to expand...

Can you explain what you mean by this? I have never seen a speaker with an issue that could be fixed by simple gluing "to the frame". What part are you gluing to the frame? And by frame are you referring to the basket? The cabinet?

JohnnyChatter said:
I can also run 1 cable from my head and a speaker cable from one side to the other for an 8 ohm load.
Click to expand...

This is definitely false unless the jack plate specifically has jacks labeled for series connection. If you "daisy chain" you are still getting a parallel connection and thus dropping the impedance.

Anyway, if you want to make the most of the cabinet, I would definitely at least get the crossover fixed, or just biamp it externally. Otherwise you are asking the 10s to keep up with the lows of the 18, which defeats the whole purpose of having a big driver like that. You could simply run a line out of the Ampeg to say a guitar amp with the bass rolled off quite a way, and run it like that.

But what I would probably do is figure out the volume of the cab, and the port tuning (assuming it's ported) and find a nice 18 that will have maximum low end in that cab, and a pair of guitar-like 10s and look into an all new crossover chosen to work well with the drivers you get. That would probably not be cheap, but it would be the way to get the most out of that cabinet. If you just want a beater rehearsal cab or something, I would still get the crossover fixed or use an external one and second amp.
 
#5
Omega Monkey said:
Can you explain what you mean by this? I have never seen a speaker with an issue that could be fixed by simple gluing "to the frame". What part are you gluing to the frame? And by frame are you referring to the basket? The cabinet?



This is definitely false unless the jack plate specifically has jacks labeled for series connection. If you "daisy chain" you are still getting a parallel connection and thus dropping the impedance.

Anyway, if you want to make the most of the cabinet, I would definitely at least get the crossover fixed, or just biamp it externally. Otherwise you are asking the 10s to keep up with the lows of the 18, which defeats the whole purpose of having a big driver like that. You could simply run a line out of the Ampeg to say a guitar amp with the bass rolled off quite a way, and run it like that.

But what I would probably do is figure out the volume of the cab, and the port tuning (assuming it's ported) and find a nice 18 that will have maximum low end in that cab, and a pair of guitar-like 10s and look into an all new crossover chosen to work well with the drivers you get. That would probably not be cheap, but it would be the way to get the most out of that cabinet. If you just want a beater rehearsal cab or something, I would still get the crossover fixed or use an external one and second amp.
Click to expand...

If you do some research those old scorpion speakers have a metal frame they come loose from sometimes. You just glue them back down. Which I did. And tested and it’s back to normal.
My cab is wired as two separate cabs in the same cab. When you daisy chain two cabs you double the impedance. Two 4 ohm loads make 8 ohms when run in series. Two 4 ohm loads run in parallel make 2 ohms. I also checked this with my meter. (Edit) I just checked and your right is still reads 2 ohms. I didn’t check it ran that way last night and just assumed. Good catch! Good thing I didn’t run it this way!)
As far as mixing speakers those 10’s keep up fine with the 18 and are rated for more wastage based on specs. I know this is a much argued topic but people have mixed speakers for years with mixed results and although I am driving the 10’s just as hard as the 18 my tens are also on top so I will hear and strain from the speakers if I ever do push them.
 
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#6
Omega Monkey said:
Can you explain what you mean by this? I have never seen a speaker with an issue that could be fixed by simple gluing "to the frame". What part are you gluing to the frame? And by frame are you referring to the basket? The cabinet?



This is definitely false unless the jack plate specifically has jacks labeled for series connection. If you "daisy chain" you are still getting a parallel connection and thus dropping the impedance.

Anyway, if you want to make the most of the cabinet, I would definitely at least get the crossover fixed, or just biamp it externally. Otherwise you are asking the 10s to keep up with the lows of the 18, which defeats the whole purpose of having a big driver like that. You could simply run a line out of the Ampeg to say a guitar amp with the bass rolled off quite a way, and run it like that.

But what I would probably do is figure out the volume of the cab, and the port tuning (assuming it's ported) and find a nice 18 that will have maximum low end in that cab, and a pair of guitar-like 10s and look into an all new crossover chosen to work well with the drivers you get. That would probably not be cheap, but it would be the way to get the most out of that cabinet. If you just want a beater rehearsal cab or something, I would still get the crossover fixed or use an external one and second amp.
Click to expand...
Omega Monkey said:
Can you explain what you mean by this? I have never seen a speaker with an issue that could be fixed by simple gluing "to the frame". What part are you gluing to the frame? And by frame are you referring to the basket? The cabinet?



This is definitely false unless the jack plate specifically has jacks labeled for series connection. If you "daisy chain" you are still getting a parallel connection and thus dropping the impedance.

Anyway, if you want to make the most of the cabinet, I would definitely at least get the crossover fixed, or just biamp it externally. Otherwise you are asking the 10s to keep up with the lows of the 18, which defeats the whole purpose of having a big driver like that. You could simply run a line out of the Ampeg to say a guitar amp with the bass rolled off quite a way, and run it like that.

But what I would probably do is figure out the volume of the cab, and the port tuning (assuming it's ported) and find a nice 18 that will have maximum low end in that cab, and a pair of guitar-like 10s and look into an all new crossover chosen to work well with the drivers you get. That would probably not be cheap, but it would be the way to get the most out of that cabinet. If you just want a beater rehearsal cab or something, I would still get the crossover fixed or use an external one and second amp.
Click to expand...

I may have worded what I did confusingly but I’m not sure where. Also I ignored you by accident and I unignored you but my computer isn’t showing me that so if i don’t get a reply right away I apologize
 
#8
Jeff Elkins said:
I had one of those! Ages ago...

I couldn't fit mine in my trunk, and where I played I couldn't leave it sticking out and strapped down, so I ended up creating a 118 and a 210 out of it. That didn't make schlepping any easier. :)

Neat find and nice (and cheap) improvisation!
Click to expand...

You cut it in half?!?!? Haha. I can’t imagine that making it much better. Mines actually lighter than most my cabs. My Aguilar 12’s have it beat and my orange obc410 is smaller but dang that thing is like lifting a little boulder....
 
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#9
I also feel the need to put in a separate post I was wrong about daisy chaining it. It’s still 2 ohms if I do that. My brain wasn’t working right last night when I was working on this. I’m still pretty happy with the results considering my heads are mostly tube heads that do 2 ohms.
 
#10
Very cool, I had the chance of getting a 70's era Peavey 2x15 (was clean and worked) one time for $20 but of course at that price it did not last long. Always been interested in these older cabs. I hear with casters they're not bad however ball-jacking them is not recommended. Usually can be had for cheap most times so I always keep an eye open again.
 
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#16
JohnnyChatter said:
View attachment 3646665 I did a thing! Found an old 1516 cab for almost nothing on Facebook market. Dude said he would even deliver it to me. Showed up in a junk truck and took off before I could say goodbye. So my hopes were not very high. First thing I noticed was it was an 1810 cab. I checked the resistance on it and it seemed correct so I plugged it in and got nothing but crunching and farting and flapping. Took it apart and realized one of the 10’s needed glued back down to the frame. Did that. Waited a day and plugged it in and found the crossover didn’t work. So I pulled the crossover out and ran two jacks in parallel to each 4 ohm load. Now I can run 2 cables into the back at 2 ohm. I can also run 1 cable from my head and a speaker cable from one side to the other for an 8 ohm load. I am honestly surprised how thick and defined it sounds for a 70’s era cab. Its also pretty easy to move around and not as heavy as others complain about it.
Click to expand...

I would put modern speakers in it and rock it
 
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#17
Had one of these, a Peavey Mark IV head, and a Peavey powered 210 once upon a time. The Mark IV had a built-in crossover, so you could patch the lows to the main amp in the head and the highs up to the powered 2x10, then the internal 2x10 to the powered cab. AWESOME!

Wanted to try a Peavey 1516 for the longest time but couldnt find one. "Settled" for a Genz-Benz Uber 1288 instead. :cool:


dcr
 
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#20
I had a "house" gig for a while and that was the backline cab, I always loved it. I used to tour with it's big brother the 3620, 2x18 BW + 2x10 Scorpion, BiAmped crossed over @ 300Hz plus I added a 2x15 BW running full range plus a 2x12 BW run by different guitar heads over the years.
 

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