Purchased brand new BB1200 in 1983 KS0065 w/ active 3-band eq cranberry/wine translucent (pictured in my avatar). Played for 26 years, and it showed, it aged well but it got heavier with age, my age that is, lol It is now retired sold at auction.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Vintage Yamaha BB Series???
- Thread starter rnilson
- Start date
Recently, I've seen a couple BB300's on my local CL for $100! I wish I could get away with buying one, but I now the wife would say, "You have one JUST LIKE THAT ALREADY!"
Don't worry about it... I have 3!! buy it!
I plan to be buried with mine. Actually, I just retired and am playing it more than ever! Personally, this is the one I'd keep if I could only have one.
I have a BB1600 and I'm trying to find out what it's value might be. It's from the Nippon Gakki factory in Japan and the serial number is KPQ0002. It's all original with the original case. Plays like a dream and sounds fantastic. Any help or input would be appreciated.
I have a BB1100S which opened my eyes on the BB line, I just bought a BB5000A and I like it, tight string spacing but not as bad as I expected it to be.
Anyone knows how does the wiring on the BB5000A works?
I could use a diagram to see what controls what....
Anyone knows how does the wiring on the BB5000A works?
I could use a diagram to see what controls what....
My understanding is that the BB2000, 3000 and 5000 were the premier axes; neck-through, P/J, ebony board, crown-style fretboard inlays. I believe all of these had alder bodies. The BB2000 had a reverse orientation on the P pickup.
"A" variants for the 3000 and 5000 had active electronics; personally, not the best-sounding electronics, and I prefer the passive versions by far. The 3000 and 5000 could also be sourced from Japan, or later, from Taiwan. I know that the Taiwan 3000's had a different and kind of weird bridge, and that the later 5000 could come with 19mm spacing, whereas the early 5000 has something really tight, like 16.5 or 17mm at the bridge.
I get lost in the 1000, 1100, 1200, 1600 variants. As you go down the line, you would see dots instead of crowns, 3-piece neck-through rather than 5, bolt-on, and P-pickup only. The 300/350/400/600 series axes are great for the money, but far less ambitious.
Any of the 4-digit series are great basses - I've owned or been around a number of them through the years, and think they generally devour their 1980's Fender counterparts, although to be fair, that decade was not Fender's glory period.
For me, the 2000 is the killer. Big, often heavy, with a massive bridge and that killer reverse P/J, a good 2000 can be superb. There is one from my distant past that weighed a ton, but knowing now what I now know, I really, really wish I'd not sold it.
"A" variants for the 3000 and 5000 had active electronics; personally, not the best-sounding electronics, and I prefer the passive versions by far. The 3000 and 5000 could also be sourced from Japan, or later, from Taiwan. I know that the Taiwan 3000's had a different and kind of weird bridge, and that the later 5000 could come with 19mm spacing, whereas the early 5000 has something really tight, like 16.5 or 17mm at the bridge.
I get lost in the 1000, 1100, 1200, 1600 variants. As you go down the line, you would see dots instead of crowns, 3-piece neck-through rather than 5, bolt-on, and P-pickup only. The 300/350/400/600 series axes are great for the money, but far less ambitious.
Any of the 4-digit series are great basses - I've owned or been around a number of them through the years, and think they generally devour their 1980's Fender counterparts, although to be fair, that decade was not Fender's glory period.
For me, the 2000 is the killer. Big, often heavy, with a massive bridge and that killer reverse P/J, a good 2000 can be superb. There is one from my distant past that weighed a ton, but knowing now what I now know, I really, really wish I'd not sold it.
Sorry to bump this thread. But I have a question: what is the sound difference between the BB1000S and the BB2000? I know all about the specs and the rail pickup and ebony board on the BB2000. But I want to know if there is much sound difference? I have owned two BB1000S basses and still own a red one. I love it. But will the BB2000 be an upgrade? Is there someone who compared both?
I think the 1Ks bridge pickup sound better than the 2k. In fact I hate both.
Replaced mine 2k Pus with Duncans.
Replaced mine 2k Pus with Duncans.
I have owned 3 BB1000S and 2 BB2000 basses. The 2000 is more collectable for some reason. But, I do not find them much different in tone. As you indicate, the 2000 has an ebony fretboard with elipses for markers and the 1000s has a rosewood board with dots. Some people think you can hear the difference between rosewood and ebony, with rosewood being a little warmer and ebony having more attack. I could not hear a difference.
As you also point out, the bridge pickup is different on the two basses, with pole pieces on the 1000s and a rail on the 2000. I preferred the pole pickup on the BB1000s when used in combination with the reverse p. I preferred the rail pickup on the 2000 when soloed - especially on my fretless BB2000. I thought it had more mid burp (Jaco tone) than the pole pickup on the 1000s. But, since I usually played with both pickups on to one degree or another, I tended to prefer my 1000s basses.
You won't find many internet photos of artists playing BB1000s basses. Most of the famous bassists you know that played these over the years played the 2000 - ala Michael Anthony (Broad Bass 2000), George Hawkins Jr. (Kenny Loggins), Andy Roarke (The Smiths), etc. So, the 2000 tends to have more collectability and a higher resale value. But, from a playability and tone standpoint, I found the two models to be nearly identical in all respects. Hope that helps.
