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Warmoth Prices

S

SgtKoi

Oct 27, 2007
220
0
#1
Hi,

I was wondering the normal price ppl pay to get all the warmoth parts. I've looked at wat i want, and its well over $1000 (not including shipping and taxes!) also, the price of the paint i want is more than the body wood i want (the neck is more expensive too, rosewood fingerboard with perloid block inlays)! is that normal???

Thx

Koi :help::help:
 
#2
I'm going to build [w/help] a Warmoth or USCG bass this year. I'm no expert, but I think that a properly put together parts bass will rival a more expensive bass in quality and tone.

Look what [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] [a TBer] is doing with USCG parts [he used to use Warmoth]. Cheaper than a Sadowski [who used to use Warmoth as well years ago].

I think Warmoths parts should be a little cheaper, but it's still a logical choice as-is IMO.
 
#4
The bodies are made on CNC machines: basically all the operator has to do is program the machine and load the wood.

Finishing is labor-intensive. It has to be sprayed, sanded, resprayed, buffed etc and the machine won't do it for you. That makes finishes cost more than the basic body (and also explains the popularity of poly finishes at factories).

I have a Warmoth fretless P neck on one of my basses (I have never bought a Warmoth body) and it was $167 for the neck and $85 for a gloss finish, which I thought was a real bargain. Since the neck has a maple fingerboard, I wanted a better finish on it than I felt like I could apply.:D

Before I found a donor P to put the neck on, I considered building one from Warmoth (back-routed ash P, the same neck I ended up with) and it parted out at around $900. Nothing fancy, no exotic woods or hardware, but in the event I paid less for a MIM ash P and the Warmoth neck. Here's a link to a pic:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/19652150@N02/2068468907/
 
#5
I think when all was said and done, my last warmoth bass was about 1200 bucks not including the case, and that was with a deal on the finish from a family member. The stuff adds up. I think the electronics in mine were around 400 bucks.
 
#6
I put together a Gecko with an ash body in Mary Kay white. The finish was as nice as anything I've seen anywhere, and much better than I currently can do myself. The routs were precise and the neck construction was immaculate. I also build from scratch and play what I build, but on that one I wanted it done quickly with a finish I can't produce, and I felt like I got at least my money's worth from Warmoth.
 
#7
lpdeluxe said:
The bodies are made on CNC machines: basically all the operator has to do is program the machine and load the wood.
Click to expand...
This is atotally incorrect opinion. There is a lot of manual labor once the neck or body comes off a CNC machine

Warmoth parts are very well made. They use high quality parts and produce a high quality product.
 
#8
I got this for 193 bucks and that includes shipping, I bought a neck a long time ago for about 150. Add a few salvage parts, rub in an oil finish or rattle can spray (I can get good results using a can) I should be able to keep it under 700 bucks.
 

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#9
In terms of resale, Warmoths do not do very well. You could spend well over $1K but if you were to sell it, probably looking at $650-$700 tops. But in terms of getting what you pay for, they're great...that is, if you know what you're doing or have some help.
 
#11
Nino Valenti said:
This is atotally incorrect opinion. There is a lot of manual labor once the neck or body comes off a CNC machine

Warmoth parts are very well made. They use high quality parts and produce a high quality product.
Click to expand...

Pardon me. In my mind (having once worked in an auto body shop) the finishing was the real job. And, of course, the hand-finishing of the piece when it comes off the machine is essential to the final appearance, also.

As I said, the Warmoth neck is very nice (at least they didn't have to fret it):D.
 
#13
I cannot speak for basses, but I recently made a parts caster with a warmoth neck. I got the least expensive neck they had, had them install stainless frets then finished it myself using tru-oil. I put 7 or 8 coats of tru-oil then used the tru-oil polish. I put it mostly together (got the pickups from craig's list) and had my luthier do the setup. By far, a much more enjoyable guitar to play compared to my MIA Fender. I got the neck profile I wanted and it feels great. I didn't put the guitar together to sell, I put it together to play. I haven't hardly touched the Fender since I finished it. I also had a lot of fun building it and learned a lot about guitars. Get the body off of ebay-there are some deals, but spend a little money on the neck from Warmoth-I wouldn't use tung oil, but use tru-oil and you'll have something you enjoy playing.
 
#15
My bass instructor, Timmer Blakely (Jim Mesi Band), has two Warmoth "parts basses", a fretless 5 and fretted 5, and loves them both. They do sound fantastic, thanks in part to the Lane Poor soap bars.:smug:

One day I'll take the plunge and build my dream bass, and I wouldn't hesitate to use Warmoth parts.
 
#16
i struggle with the idea of selling my boutique bass and having a warmoth jazz built.

maple jazz body black finish. maple neck w/ maple fretboard. stainless steel frets. two delano j's with the huge pole pieces. hipshot aluminum A bridge. aluminum nut. black/white/black pickguard. hipshot 3 string retainer. hipshot tuners. oh, and i'd have one of the tb'ers who use thread metal inserts to attach necks to build it. :)

you want growl? that thing will growl.
 
#17
bassrique said:
Tell me more please. What kinda paint, and how you did/do it.
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like these or even the ones from your hardware store for solid colors. The trick is to spray about 5-10 inches away, never stop moving your hand and apply very thin coats each time. The first few coats should be light like they called dusting coat. Once it dries hard you can use a polishing compound to bring out the shine.
 

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