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Warwick Straplocks - are they reliable?

Are Warwick straplocks reliable

  • yes

    Votes: 4 33.3%
  • no

    Votes: 8 66.7%

  • Total voters
    12
Dec 22, 2013
1,820
1,751
Roma, Italia
let me explain: yesterday I bought an used Warwick Streamer LX4, made in Germany 2011, wonderful instrument, AAA flamed maple body (two pieces), ovangkol neck, wengè fretboard, bellbrass frets, brass just-a-nut III... everything fine with it, with all the "kit" with allen wrenches, wax and cloth (never opened), deluxe bag...

and so, it's all perfect, as new (except the frets that I'll polish tomorrow), but the previous owner lost the strap locks, the part that goes on the strap. it's the "Dunlop style" one, which enters inside the button (the button is outside the wood, not inside like older models)

at home I have a set of chrome Shaller, which I'll use, but I'd like to keep the bass the most "original", so I was thinking of buying a set of Warwicks, but I red on the web that they are not reliable, and tend to wear out...

a friend of mine has them on two Warwicks, and he haven't have problems in many years (a Streamer and a Corvette).

what can you tell me about them?

Thanks a lot! I post some pictures of this beauty <3 it's my first Warwick, and wow, I payed it "only" 800€, in this conditions... it's the best buildt bass I've ever had, better than any Fender I've ever touched...
 

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That is a beautiful bass, congratulations!

Personally I prefer Dunlop Straploks because their design doesn't involve a nut (on the strap side) that can unexpectedly come loose or off over time at any given moment. I have experienced that happening during gigs with both Schaller & Warwick strap locks. The Dunlops have a clip instead of a nut and I have been using Dunlops for decades with no such issues. Three of my basses are Warwick Streamers and I have installed the Dunlops on all of my basses.
 
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I have experienced that happening during gigs with both Schaller & Warwick strap locks

just to know, how did that happened with Shallers? considering that their mechanism needs to be pulled, I can't imagine them "failing" during a gig.

however, the Warwick thing frighten me a bit, because I tend to move a lot on stage. I personally dislike Shaller's look, in fact I sold the set I had years ago, when I started using rubber washers, but these Warwick buttons won't fit them...
 
just to know, how did that happened with Shallers? considering that their mechanism needs to be pulled, I can't imagine them "failing" during a gig.

however, the Warwick thing frighten me a bit, because I tend to move a lot on stage. I personally dislike Shaller's look, in fact I sold the set I had years ago, when I started using rubber washers, but these Warwick buttons won't fit them...

Both of those types lock into the strap button, but if the nut over the strap comes loose and falls off, then the strap can slip off the straplok:

IMG_0321.JPG


With the Dunlops, the strap is "clipped" on and there is no standard nut that can come loose or slip off:

IMG_0322.JPG
 
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I voted "no". The Warwick locks that came on my 2013 German Thumb NT became unreliable only after a couple years. The 3-ball design, IMO is inferior to the Dunlop 4-ball design. One could argue, that with proper maintenance, they are just as reliable, but I think securing at every 90 degrees is better than 120.
 
Both of those types lock into the strap button, but if the nut over the strap comes loose and falls off, then the strap can slip off the straplok:

ok, now I get it. I thought that you were talking about the mechanism (pull with Shaller, push with Warwick) of the lock.

I voted "no". The Warwick locks that came on my 2013 German Thumb NT became unreliable only after a couple years.

what appened? did it fall?
 
I used to have Warwick straplocks. After about a year (probably less) the bottom lock stopped working. It secured the instrument well while playing, but it was falling out the very instant I lifted the bass to take it off and put on a stand/in the gigbag. After about a 4 year break from the bass I picked it up again, and the very first thing I did was change the straplocks to Dunlop. Of course when I attempted to unscrew the top Warwick straplock, the screw snapped at the tip and the rest was stuck in the body... :banghead:

Edit: I forgot to mention, these straplocks were in black and the bottom lock would often leave a black powder residue on my hand upon the briefest contact.

I also used to own Marvel straplocks on a different bass, didn't test them thoroughly but they were very good. Though I always feared the strap part of the lock would unscrew over time, which is inferior to the Dunlop design.
 
what appened? did it fall?

Yes. One of the "balls" failed to pop out into the channel that captures them when properly extended. Strap came loose, and luckily I caught the bass. This happened a few times before I realized what was going on. I thought maybe I just didn't push the male side fully into the female, but no. The balls were sticking in.
 
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or just using the old school Grolsch washers.

I use the washers on every other guitar/bass I own. my issue with this one is that it has the original button from Warwick, which can't fit the washer... :(

I've read that the tuners are another weak point.

to me they seem to be high quality tuners, and I like them. light and with high ratio. don't know what can be wrong with them.
 
I use the washers on every other guitar/bass I own. my issue with this one is that it has the original button from Warwick, which can't fit the washer... :(



to me they seem to be high quality tuners, and I like them. light and with high ratio. don't know what can be wrong with them.

I just took a closer look at your photos, I thought the Warwick were closer to the Dunlops.
I use washers on mine, but gave up on the locking part, mainly because my basses just hang out at home.

If you get Dunlops, get these. You can just stash the clip part and use the pins as normal.
ae00-3316.jpg