OK more details:
Electronics: passive, Bart humbucker and 3-way mini toggle switch (series, parallel and south coil). The PUP position I adopted form Fbass Alain Caron model (the distance from the bridge to the center of the bridge coil). The back (body-neck attachment) is also inspired on FBass.
Sound: Very warm, decent amonnt of mwah, even with flats.
Action: almost no relief (I would like to replace the truss-rod for a double action one someday), but I have to say that purpleheaert is stable as graphite (I have adjusted the rod twice, the last time 4 years ago!!!). The neck is very stiff and does not move seasonally. The neck is one big chunk of purpleheart, craved assymetrically a-la Mike Tobias. NO graphite or steel reinforcement, just a stiff-dry-nice piece of purpleheart. Nut and saddle are made out of unbleached bone that yes, I cut myself from a cow's bone.
In answer to one of the questions above...the longer upper horn was designed to compensate for neck dive. The body is very small and canary wood is lightweight, whereas purpleheart is VERY heavy. The result...I need a slightly bigger body! Yes it has a bit of neck dive while sitting, but if you strap it on you no longer feel it.
Some more add ons: I bulit this back when I was living in South America, so I had to be VERY resourceful. You'd never believe what the inlaid fretlines are...cut-outs from an old credit card!
The bridge I designed myself and got the tailpiece machined at a local shop after my design. It is NOT fixed to the body so you can move it ad libitium to adjust intonation.
What else...the finish is tung oil and....guess..kiwi shoepolish rubbed on top (it works REALLY well, I believe Sheldon Dingwall has also done this).
Once again THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR KIND WORDS OF ENCOURAEGEMENT AND COMPLMENTS!, you've certaily made my day, my brethren!
PS. I'm sorry I can't post clips soon, I'm currently working on this!
Diego