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What strings have the lowest tension?

But Jon: How do we know which products are 'small ratio' and 'large ratio' ?

That's the thing; you probably won't. Unless you have a micrometer, a pair of pliers and some time/inclination to take apart a set of strings and measure every wire, you won't be able to tell aside from what the feel/tone tells you.

But, with that info in the paragraph, it's safe to assume that a string that touts "round core flexibility with hex core durability" has a pretty small core-to-cover ratio.
 
it's safe to assume that a string that touts "round core flexibility with hex core durability" has a pretty small core-to-cover ratio.

A couple of weeks ago, a bassist friend of mine handed me three brand new sets of Dunlop Super Bright Nickels (45-105), saying, "I don't need these anymore. Do you think you might be able to make use of them?"

Out of curiosity, I took out one of the E strings from the package just to see...
Something that caught my eyes right away as I was uncoiling it was two inches of the core wire sticking out at the end - how THIN it actually is. No wonder they're so flexible!
 
A couple of weeks ago, a bassist friend of mine handed me three brand new sets of Dunlop Super Bright Nickels (45-105), saying, "I don't need these anymore. Do you think you might be able to make use of them?"

Out of curiosity, I took out one of the E strings from the package just to see...
Something that caught my eyes right away as I was uncoiling it was two inches of the core wire sticking out at the end - how THIN it actually is. No wonder they're so flexible!

I mic'd them. The Super Brights in 45-65-85-105 are comparable (core diameter wise) to a set of Super Steels at 30-50-70-84
 
I know I'm late to this thread but if the OP sees this I'll add a little info to the great info already shared.

There was a guy named Jauquo (I think, not Jaco) who used to post here and used 30-40-60-80 nickel roundwounds on all his basses, tuned EADG. So if you buy a standard set of DRs or whatever else looks like a good strings to you, and you don't feel they're comfortable enough, go ahead and try the lighter gauges. There's nothing to be afraid of. I've used 40-95 on shortscale basses and they sound good. DR Hi Beams come in a set that goes 30-50-70-90. Worth a shot as well.
 
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Remember you can tune the tone of the highest strings by tilting the pickups to different angles to bias the high strings toward the neck pickup. You may be able to warm-up smaller gauge strings this way.
If the high strings are then quieter also tilt the pickups to rebalance.
Also, since you are looking for very flexible strings, it's quite possible that very flexible strings will have a similar affect on tone as smaller gauges.
The best approach is: 1. Choose gauges and tensions for optimum playability and health. 2. Get used to the tone (it can take a couple of months).
 
OP, not to get mired down in tension vs feel, blah blah blah, I really like the 40-95 DR high beam set. They Don't make a 5 string version, but you can get a single 120 B to go along with them. They seem to stay brighter longer than other HB sets; it seems to be harder for the gunk to penetrate those dinky little ridges.
 
Not compared to the Dunlop Super Brights, they wouldn't. Those are made with a very small hex core, which is more tactile than a round core string of the same gauge.

Also, "any" isn't a good qualifier, as any round core string from GHS has a slightly larger core diameter, which would definitely not be comparable to the Dunlop Super Brights.

I've used the Dunlop SS SBs several times, and felt that D'Add Prosteels had less stiffness. They're very nice sounding and "super bright", but the Prosteels feel better, and easier to bend ... at least to me anyway.
 
.....

Hi I bought a NYC sadowsky pj 5 a couple of months back and love the sound but have been been getting some hand pain due to the stiffness of the strings (I like to dig in and get that raspy sound quite a bit) The gauge is the same I'm used to 45-125 but the strings were new to me stainless steel blue label sadowsky. Been liking the stainless steel so I checked online recommendations for some low tension ones (I want to keep the same gauge) So got it set up, action is now low as possible and it's wearing Dunlop super brights 45-125. Much less stiffness for my plucking hand to fight against but strings are still not as loose as I want. Bar switching to a lower gauge could u guys recommend any strings that would have lower tension than Dunlop super brights? Been reading about dr hi beams wud they be better for what I'm after? Also, are stainless steel strings just stiffer in general? Any help wud be greatly appreciated. Thanks

gotta believe its ti flats.....they are like friggin worms
 
I mic'd them. The Super Brights in 45-65-85-105 are comparable (core diameter wise) to a set of Super Steels at 30-50-70-84
Does this imply that the total string tension of a Dunlop Super Bright Set is about the same as the set you mention? (147.9 lbs if i looked that up correctly) ... - It's only after writing this sentence that I realized myself that the answer is probably 'No', as I am comparing a set intended for EADG tuning with a set intended for ADGC tuning... It makes me really appreciate the companies that do publish string tensions. What do you think the tension on the neck would be then for a Dunlop SB? Does GHS have a set (or thinks about making one) that has similar properties?
 
Does this imply that the total string tension of a Dunlop Super Bright Set is about the same as the set you mention? (147.9 lbs if i looked that up correctly) ... - It's only after writing this sentence that I realized myself that the answer is probably 'No', as I am comparing a set intended for EADG tuning with a set intended for ADGC tuning...

We have a lot of artists that use a very light gauge set of strings for EADG tuning. Evan Marien uses something akin to 30-50-70-90, and has probably one of the warmest, clearest bass tones I've ever heard.

So, it's possible that the two sets mentioned have a comparable string tension, but without weighing a couple of sets of SBs, you won't know for sure.


It makes me really appreciate the companies that do publish string tensions. What do you think the tension on the neck would be then for a Dunlop SB?

No idea on the SB tension. Without published specs or weighing sets, we won't know.


Does GHS have a set (or thinks about making one) that has similar properties?

The main reason why they are using a very small diameter hex core is to replicate the feel of a round core. If we made a string with the low tension properties, we'd probably start with a round core instead.

But otherwise no, unless you wanted to try a set of either the Super Steels or Bass Boomers in 30-50-70-90 (to approximate the 45-105 of the SBs) and could get past the gauge, we don't have anything comparable.
 
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What do you think the tension on the neck would be then for a Dunlop SB?
No idea on the SB tension. Without published specs or weighing sets, we won't know.
It's possible to make a rough guess based on gauge, the tension is likely to be very roughly similar to other brand's sets of the same gauges, due to the constraints on string construction.
 
It's possible to make a rough guess based on gauge,

I was actually attempting to calculate what tension it would have based on this scientific article
The physics of unwound and wound strings on the electric guitar applied to the pitch intervals produced by tremolo/vibrato arm systems

But it is focused on guitar strings and they make the assumption that the influence of the winding is negligible due to way lower thickness vs the core wire, something that is not valid for a bass string. They also assume uniform material (completely stainless steel) so there goes the estimation for nickel plated... I would also need the actual measurements of the core wire which I don't have.
 
That article only concerns it self with core size and core to wrap ratio because it is dealing with how much pitch change is caused by a particular amount of string stretching by a tremolo. All that is over-complex and unnecessary for basic string tension calculations.

All you need is here http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf
The most useful document i have ever discovered

T = (U * (2 * L * F) ^ 2) / 386.4

T tension, in pound-force (lbf), often written and referred to as 'pounds' (lb)
U unit weight, in pounds per inch
L scale length of instrument, in inches
F frequency of open string, in Hertz

'Tension' is the required stretching force applied to the string by the tuner in order to raise frequency to the desired 'F'.

'U' is found by cutting the longest possible length of full gauge (with no silk wrap and not including the thicker anchoring section near the ball end). Weighing and dividing by the length.

This equation is what D'Addario, Kalium and GHS all use to calculate the published tension values, they calculate tension from weighing strings and knowing 'L' and 'F'.

Note that core size, core to wrap ratio and materials are irrelevant, only the total unit weight matters.
 
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lokikallas, tension (scientific and perceived) is mostly determined by the gauges. DR round core in heavy gauges like 50-110 will have higher tension (scientific and perceived) than another brand's stiffer set in 30-90.
Round cores affect flexibility, which is independent from scientific tension.
 
I went from Sadowsky flats light gauge to Thomastik flats (only gauge) and love them.
I understand the 'playing noodles' references and I like that.

I want the same thing for my nickel roundwounds and I have Sadowsky lights (40-60-80-100) on at the moment.
So the question is what would you recommend for roundwound 'noodles'?

I have some unopened DR Sunbeams just arrived (45-65-80-100) which have the round core.

I also understand that in the US you can buy strings for $20 a set and have the luxury to try many sets just for fun.
Not so in Australia where I have few to choose from and often have to import from the US anyway. $50 a set of 4 strings.
What do you reckon? Round nickel noodles.