TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Polys (urethane, ester, etc)
Nitrocellulose lacquer
- Windex (non ammonia). Apply to a rag first.
- Alternate: water and mild detergent. Rag first.
French polish
- Unchecked finish: Water, water and mild detergent, applied to rag, damp only.
- Checked finish, vintage guitar: Hot breath and dry rag
- Note: Lacquer thinner will dissolve finish. Fast
Oil finishes
- Damp rag only. If using detergent, try to find an inconspicuous area to test.
- Note: Alcohol will dissolve finish. Really, really, fast. That includes whisky, vodka, or anything else found in the speed rack.
Naphtha can be used before water based cleaners to de-grease and remove non-water soluble stuff. It is safe on poly and nitro. There has been some anecdotal evidence that it is a problem for French polish.
- Damp rag
- More of the same oil
- Note: Most oil finishes have a sealer applied to the wood
Unfinished fingerboards in rosewood, pau ferro, and the like can be safely cleaned with naphtha, water, or walterw's favorite naphtha water blend. So can most maple fingerboards as long as they are sealed.
i think you're OK with that. some would prefer to clean the neck with alcohol. IMO: for a quick clean = a damp cloth will work. for a serious clean and 'polish' = probably several different potions are up to the task...and a few to stay away from...Is a wet wipe good enough for both neck and body? This kind:
Do your wet wipes have any soap/antibacterial potions in them?
I’ve always had the best luck with a lightly dampened rag followed by a dry rag. All my rags are cut up old T shirts, unless i’m polishing, then it’s cotton baby diapers
I’d make sure they were not going to react with your finish. There is also the possibility of streaking.They might in small amounts, why?