What to do with fresh cut wood.

[TombassCaton]

We recently had a horse chestnut tree in our garden cut down, and I asked to have a section to use to make a bass. Its about 6cm thick, 150cm long and 75cm wide.
I was wondering what I should do, should I leave it to season? If so for how long?
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Tom

 

[f.c.geil]

Yes, you should leave it to season, for at least a year, or take it to a professional, and have it kiln dried.

 

[Jazzdogg]

Seal the end-grain.

Place your boards on a level surface with evenly-spaced stickers about 45cm apart to allow uniform air circulation.

Place stickers above and below the board(s); place weights on the top stickers to hold the boards flat while allowing air circulation.

Allow the wood to dry in the shade - no direct sun.

A rough rule of thumb for air-drying is one year for each inch (2.54cm) of thickness.

Here are two books that I find useful:

"The Conversion & Seasoning of Wood"
William H. Brown
Linden Publishing
ISBN: 0-941936-14-7

"Harvesting Urban Timber"
Sam Sherrill
Linden Publishing
ISBN: 0-941936-71-6


Good luck!

 

[TombassCaton]

Thankyou

 

[adam.beauchene]

I've recently become interested in this very topic! This guy sells some DIY kiln plans (more like an instruction booklet), pretty good stuff. You can dry it yourself in a couple weeks. If I get around to doing this it will definitely start a build thread!

 

[pilotjones]

If you do the kiln method, USDA FPL has the suggested kiln schedule.

 

[Jazzdogg]

Kiln drying is a fascinating subject; I learn something new with each load I dry.

I learned the hard way that it can be very difficult to figure out what went wrong, and what to do differently next time, without detailed contemporaneous documentation. In addition to tracking temperature and relative humidity, checking wet- and dry-bulb temperatures in the kiln, and using a moisture meter to take readings of several different boards, I also weigh a sample piece every week. Everything that goes into the kiln is itemized.

Seems like it'd be a passive activity, but there's a lot of number crunching and head-scratching involved.

 

[jmorbita]

Interesting.

How soon after a tree falls should you cut it into boards? do you need the tree to season a bit before cuting it into boards, or should the boards be cut right away, and then left to season?

I have some access to some fallen trees and sadly coudln't find anyone to cut it into boards.

 

[Jazzdogg]

Interesting.

How soon after a tree falls should you cut it into boards? do you need the tree to season a bit before cuting it into boards, or should the boards be cut right away, and then left to season?

I have some access to some fallen trees and sadly coudln't find anyone to cut it into boards.

I often saw freshly fallen trees into lumber without delay; the sawing is easier with a green log than a dry log, but the wood weighs a lot more. If you don't have access to mechanized equipment, it will be easier to process the log after it's lost some of its water weight.

Whether you saw immediately or wait, seal the end grain as soon as possible to reduce the likelihood of end-checking.

If you have an opportunity to elevate the log on sleepers (large timbers) to prevent direct contact with the ground, and to promote uniform air circulation, the log will be less likely to self-destruct while waiting to be milled.

 

[KramerDon]

Seal the end-grain.

Place your boards on a level surface with evenly-spaced stickers about 45cm apart to allow uniform air circulation.

Place stickers above and below the board(s); place weights on the top stickers to hold the boards flat while allowing air circulation.

Allow the wood to dry in the shade - no direct sun.

A rough rule of thumb for air-drying is one year for each inch (2.54cm) of thickness.
Good luck!

That's pretty much what I was going to say.I found somebody with a Cat diesel powered Woodmizer saw and had some cherry and walnut logs sawn into 1" slabs and"stickered"them in my basement with my dehumidifier keeping it at 50%humidity or lower for about 2 yrs and it was very stable.I've used it for trim and built-ins in my house.
To build an instrument,I'd probably try and wait as long as possible. I'd also advise never try and use a board from the exact center of the log,they tend to twist and warp.I've heard that to dry wood very fast in a kiln isn't good either but that's just what I heard.

 

[LightGroove]

Whether you saw immediately or wait, seal the end grain as soon as possible to reduce the likelihood of end-checking...

This...like NOW!! I highly recommend sealing now...as checking WILL become your worst enemy...keep it out of the elements as these to can change the wood..I would look for anchorseal 2 at your local woodcraft supply store,...if its not readily available locate paraffin wax... some will recommend latex paint...not worth it...trust me... oh and after a crack starts...its almost sure to grow...

for fun ...perhaps play just a bit and leave a piece in contact with the ground to encourage spalting...look in your local woods for nice oyster mushroom growing on logs..use gloves and collect and rub all over the bark..then cover in moist leaves...still seal the ends though.