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Whats up with Warmoth?

I've never owned a Warmoth bass, but played some they are fantastic. Some people sell their basses because their tastes have changed and some do because their expectations and design don't match. I see people saying they want a custom bass built, but they don't know what. I advice them to play as many instruments as possible before they know exactly what they like first.
 
Been playing these "Evil Twins" Warmoth builds [semi hollow body was made by a friend] since the early to mid 90's. Very stable necks w/ zero dead spots.
Evil Twins.jpg

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As mentioned before, though their quality is first rate, like any parts bass you don't know what you have until it's all together. Success rates are high, but it's the sum of its parts. Ultimately, you have to see how it turns out. Having said that:
I have 4 full Warmoth and 3 necks. This PJ was my first piece, Black Korina P body/ Quilt top in Blueburst. Back then it was called the Thrift Shop and contained over runs and abandoned orders at reduced rates. This was abandoned, and the second I saw it I knew I had to have it.
They added the J rout and it's still one of my favorites.
The neck is heavily figured Bird'seye ordered new not long after. No choices to pick from online back then. I "wrote" a letter, included a money order, and said please send a nice one, it was a BD present from my wife - and they sent this incredible piece.
I've had nothing but great success with them all, one of which is my #1. I recommend Warmoth and do not hesitate using them.
My first:
Blue Fr CU A1.jpg


My #1:
BigDink2 BC A.jpg


My others:
Pink Fr CU 1.jpg

CANDY FR CU1.jpg
 
I built a J bass (wenge neck, roasted swamp ash body) and loved it, but then I lost my job and needed the money more than I needed the bass.

A couple years later now and I just put together a 32” scale Z bass with PJ pickups (Wilde P45 and J46) and I’m about to build a 32” scale P with soapbars (have a set of Nordstrand Zen Blades).

I bought the necks for both here on the TB classifieds and the bodies from the Showcase, so I was able to see the weight before purchasing, and the bodies just so happened to be pretty unique (Z has a nice ash top, P has a bubinga top).

If you're ordering a body custom built, you can pay extra to specify an extra-light body. And for the last few years, you've been able to pay more for graphite rods in necks instead of steel.

It's basically been covered, but I think some people go crazy with options that end up in basses that don't meet their expectations. Plus, GAS is a b***h.
 
I built a J bass (wenge neck, roasted swamp ash body) and loved it, but then I lost my job and needed the money more than I needed the bass.

A couple years later now and I just put together a 32” scale Z bass with PJ pickups (Wilde P45 and J46) and I’m about to build a 32” scale P with soapbars (have a set of Nordstrand Zen Blades).

I bought the necks for both here on the TB classifieds and the bodies from the Showcase, so I was able to see the weight before purchasing, and the bodies just so happened to be pretty unique (Z has a nice ash top, P has a bubinga top).

If you're ordering a body custom built, you can pay extra to specify an extra-light body. And for the last few years, you've been able to pay more for graphite rods in necks instead of steel.

It's basically been covered, but I think some people go crazy with options that end up in basses that don't meet their expectations. Plus, GAS is a b***h.
I can't wait to see it, @TheEmptyCell . Ash and bubinga body ? Oh, I just re-read and those are two separate basses. Either way, that sounds great. I DO bet an ash body with a bubinga top would roar like a lion.
 
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Not naming any names because the list is endless, but WHY would you take a WARMOTH neck and slap a Fender decal on it ??

It makes your bass more likely to be stolen as well - thieves probably aren't up on the nuances of custom instruments - they see Fender and figure it's an easy flip. I sign my initials on my headstocks, partly because I think it makes it less likely to be stolen. I built the thing, it works great - it was built precisely the way I want it, and I wanna hang on to it.
 
I can't wait to see it, @TheEmptyCell . Ash and bubinga body ? Oh, I just re-read and those are two separate basses. Either way, that sounds great. I DO bet an ash body with a bubinga top would roar like a lion.
The J bass I had was an "extra light" roasted ash body, the Z is a swamp ash top over an alder body, and the P body I just got in the mail has a bubinga top over a roasted ash body. It's really pretty, and will look so good with an oil finish. I'll be posting about it as soon as I have more parts in hand!
 
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All of my fender style instruments are warmoth (Strat, Tele, Active J and P with a J neck). If you know what you're doing in specing them and building (Or outsourcing that to someone who knows what they're doing) they can be fantastic instruments. Paradoxically, they also make more sense when you are building something you can't just get from fender :) I sort of regret my tele, not that it's not a good instrument, but it's pretty much just a standard tele. The other three have features that you can't get off the shelf from fender (and in some cases, that you can't really modify an existing instrument)
 
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The weight comments ring true, I put together a Warmoth Frankenjazz Fretless a long time ago, and it's the proverbial boat anchor. It sound absolutely lovely, and the quality of the parts is superb, but not something you'd want hanging off you for more than short periods of time.
If you buy from the in stock page, they list weights so you can shop accordingly. If you go custom, you kind of get what you get
 
I'm a Luthier... I build on occasion, but primarily repair. I've been doing this a long time. From before there even were any aftermarket parts at all!
The first replacement necks and bodies I saw, were Mighty Mite, and Schecter. Began in the 70's. I've modded many instruments with Warmoth necks. A few bodies, as well. The quality- is top-notch. One thing I distinctly remember, is that during the early years, you could build a Fender Bass- a lot closer to the style and combination of parts than you could order and upgrade from Fender, for a lot less money. Now, that is not the case. The other point, is after laying out as much as 2k for parts and assembly, the resale is just not there, if you decide you don't like it as much as you thought you would. I still have one Warmoth build as a personal bass. Swamp Ash, maple neck, old Fender P-bass pickup, and painted Dodge Viper blue. It's a very good looking, high quality, great sounding bass, and ironic, I don't play it that much.
Perusing the Warmoth site- the prices of their parts now, are pretty up there. Still - very high quality stuff.
I have 4 warmoths, and I feel like they typically come in a couple hundred bucks cheaper than whatever the current name of the fender american series instruments are, but I have gone for fairly plain ones. The wood upgrades get expensive in a hurry
 
Just having read the entire thread. I will let you know that I worked for Warmoth for two years 20 years ago after working with Mark Erlewine for about five years.

First, if you were to turn the lights out at many music stores and Warmoth parts glowed in the dark. You would be very surprised. ;)

The execution of the build is important, not getting caught up in the "theory experiments" and what I refer to as "limited artist vision." (This is where you and your mom are the only two people who think your Warmoth instrument is cool!) :smug:

Staying on the rails, no botched holes and not going crazy with wood combinations that no one else on the planet is doing. Should deliver a superior instrument.

But, if you are playing the insecurity name game, or have to spend $4K+ for a $2K instrument and really haven't got the imagination to create something better than you can purchase off the rack. It is what it is....:bassist:

I'm getting ready to sell a badass Bass made with Warmoth Guitar Products...I have fun doing Basses like Hot-Rod Harleys. :drool:

I don't do "gobbers."
 
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What's up with Warmoth? Well, they don't offer bass necks all the inlay options that guitar necks get. And they no longer offer arctic white or Mary Kay white anymore. But I still buy from them, though.
They don't seem to do butterscotch blonde anymore either, but as the owner of of one of their butterscotch blondes, I thought their version wasn't a very nice color
 
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Are all the Fender style Warmoth necks drop-in compatible with Fender standard bodies? I’ve only ever bought body/neck sets from Warmoth, which, of course, fit perfectly. You can find any body you want on Stratosphere, if you can stomach the prices!
Mostly. The provide info on this on their website, but so long as it has the standard heel/pocket dimensions, they are 100% compatible. There are a few models over the years that have had funny dimensions.

From their site

The following bass models are known to be incompatible with Warmoth replacement bodies and necks:

  • Music Man Basses®
  • G & L Basses®
  • P Bass® Deluxe
  • J Bass® Deluxe
  • P Bass® Special
  • P Bass® "Lyte"
 
Are all the Fender style Warmoth necks drop-in compatible with Fender standard bodies? I’ve only ever bought body/neck sets from Warmoth, which, of course, fit perfectly. You can find any body you want on Stratosphere, if you can stomach the prices!
I've been putting my 1988 Warmoth neck on different bodies for decades and they have all been good fits. some a little looser than others but the holes have lined up nicely each time. Squier, Fender, Tokai....

Edit, yes, gotta be your standard four bolt P or J type pocket. There are exceptions as noted in post #79.
 
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